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Sreezy36

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Just visited Cresent this morning for a chat with Satoki. Here are some snaps from the sartoria.

First, some glorious outerwear.

View attachment 1916771

View attachment 1916773

I browsed his vintage stock and saved pics of some interesting cloths for future commissions:

View attachment 1916797

View attachment 1916799

View attachment 1916801

View attachment 1916803

I’m a sucker for worsted checked jacketing…
View attachment 1916807

View attachment 1916809

And below are my new commissions. With these, I’m officially past the golden number 11 and now onto my 14th… “Time to pump the brakes”, I told myself, before catching a glimpse of a bolt of brown vintage silk Scabal 😅

View attachment 1916815

Clockwise:
- Fox flannel (90 wool/ 10 cash) - SB 2pc
- Fox tweed - SC
- Edwin Woodhouse 6 ply - SB 2pc (I probably will have Zizolfi make me a DB navy odd jacket in the same fabric. Gianluca Migliarotti has one that is being made, which I tried on when I dropped by his office and haven’t been able to stop thinking about since…)
- Anglo Italian PoW flannel - DB 2pc. I saw a picture of a similar suit made by Gant 10 years ago and it has always been one of my fantasies.

Seeing Corcos, Liverano and Zizolfi in the next couple of days. Very excited!

Bonus: the fit I wore to Satoki’s atelier, which a lot may find to be sacrilegious 😅
View attachment 1916817

Just out of curiosity, is there a long term strategy with your bespoke comisions within the framework of building practical and well rounded wardrobe?

Or

If at all, is there another specific methodology that you have for selecting your comisions?
 

Guizp

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Hello everyone,
Had the chance to meet with my tailor for a first fitting this week-end

Have a few ( too many) projects in progress

Second fitting for the jacket of a Drapers flannel suit. Jacket is 6x1

Minor adjusments made here, she will add some structure for the final product.
IMG-20230313-WA0002~2.jpg



Other is a navy 380g 13oz sharkskin from taylor & lodge.
Really great cloth, classic 6x2 suit with structure.

Will widen the legs as I like my trousers to be fuller, lower the gorge of the jacket ,widen the waist and add 1 cm or 2cm to the rise. Also I think we discussed about adding room to the rear And a bit of lenght.

IMG-20230313-WA0012.jpg

Maybe as a french I can't help a bit of fantasy but they had in stock a beautiful cashmere suiting for we think attolini made by cerruti
Will not wear this a lot through the year to not ruin it. 3 piece suit with a shawl collar db vest. attolini inspired.

We already made a similar project with a heritage twist cloth from standeven which we really like.

The pants will receive similar treatment as to make it fuller. Will add padding to the shoulders. All the jackets will have extended shoulders.
Recall the leg is 35cm and leg opening 21cm.
I am a short guy, 170 cm kind of slim but with strong legs.

The hand is incredible with a subtle striped/herringbone pattern in a grey blue color.
IMG-20230313-WA0015.jpg
IMG-20230313-WA0010.jpg


Have also an other 3 piece made but with a single breasted vest. The suit will be made the same as the cashmere one.

So only have a fitting for the vest.
We decided to shorten the lenght as I prefer having a short torso and to let it out a little bit
Cloth is from H&S 13oz gostwyck trilogy bunch.
Dark brown with an interesting twill. Made of brown and black threads.
IMG-20230313-WA0004.jpg


Other projects will be fitted in the next meeting.

Was really happy to see them again, as they are the nicest people on earth.
They are currently changing places, in a beautiful small city with a great setting. I wish them the best for this new adventure.

Couldn't take close picture of the cloth as my phone was in a different room with two huge dogs only waiting to greet us. Next time will do.


In the mean time i picked up one jacket for winter in a navy cash wool mix from an old.piacenza cloth and a pair of trousers from a cacciopolli fawn covert which is really cool. Sleeves needs to be shorten a little bit but it's a fantastic jacket.
Can't make photos as I'm in the airport and don't want to be weirder than I already am.

With all these projects I guess I will the cross the infamous 11 commissions with my tailor and hope to reach nirvana or something.
 

Timmers

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Hello everyone,
Had the chance to meet with my tailor for a first fitting this week-end

Have a few ( too many) projects in progress

Second fitting for the jacket of a Drapers flannel suit. Jacket is 6x1

Minor adjusments made here, she will add some structure for the final product.
View attachment 1917147


Other is a navy 380g 13oz sharkskin from taylor & lodge.
Really great cloth, classic 6x2 suit with structure.

Will widen the legs as I like my trousers to be fuller, lower the gorge of the jacket ,widen the waist and add 1 cm or 2cm to the rise. Also I think we discussed about adding room to the rear And a bit of lenght.

View attachment 1917149
Maybe as a french I can't help a bit of fantasy but they had in stock a beautiful cashmere suiting for we think attolini made by cerruti
Will not wear this a lot through the year to not ruin it. 3 piece suit with a shawl collar db vest. attolini inspired.

We already made a similar project with a heritage twist cloth from standeven which we really like.

The pants will receive similar treatment as to make it fuller. Will add padding to the shoulders. All the jackets will have extended shoulders.
Recall the leg is 35cm and leg opening 21cm.
I am a short guy, 170 cm kind of slim but with strong legs.

The hand is incredible with a subtle striped/herringbone pattern in a grey blue color.
View attachment 1917151 View attachment 1917153

Have also an other 3 piece made but with a single breasted vest. The suit will be made the same as the cashmere one.

So only have a fitting for the vest.
We decided to shorten the lenght as I prefer having a short torso and to let it out a little bit
Cloth is from H&S 13oz gostwyck trilogy bunch.
Dark brown with an interesting twill. Made of brown and black threads.
View attachment 1917155

Other projects will be fitted in the next meeting.

Was really happy to see them again, as they are the nicest people on earth.
They are currently changing places, in a beautiful small city with a great setting. I wish them the best for this new adventure.

Couldn't take close picture of the cloth as my phone was in a different room with two huge dogs only waiting to greet us. Next time will do.


In the mean time i picked up one jacket for winter in a navy cash wool mix from an old.piacenza cloth and a pair of trousers from a cacciopolli fawn covert which is really cool. Sleeves needs to be shorten a little bit but it's a fantastic jacket.
Can't make photos as I'm in the airport and don't want to be weirder than I already am.

With all these projects I guess I will the cross the infamous 11 commissions with my tailor and hope to reach nirvana or something.
Everything looks to be starting off well! Will be interested to see delivery
 

Cotillion

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I am embarking on my first bespoke suit experience and conducting some due diligence of tailors. I'm wondering who has experience with Steven Hitchcock, Henry Poole, and Edward Sexton and what insight anyone can provide on the experience?

I have certain requirements so looking to best match the tailor with what I'm looking for. I am looking for a more classic 30s-40s cut with full trousers that are much wider than the current trends. I also require high armholes with a flat armhole base, more in Fred Astaire/Gene Kelly style to allow maximum arm range without moving the chest of the jacket as much.

I'm also looking into local Los Angeles tailors and if there are any others with trunk shows in Los Angeles, I'll investigate them as well. I've also purchased on fabric already so I won't be needing help selecting the right fabric.
 

jonathanS

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Hi, I would also be curious to hear if anyone has any experience with Tiziano. Thanks!

how did you all hear about Simone‘s Visit to New York? I met him in Florence, & didn’t hear about it haha.
 

jonathanS

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I am looking for a more classic 30s-40s cut with full trousers that are much wider than the current trends.
Can’t beat ask okey @Alan Bee for that.

look into who has trunk shows in la
 

lordsuperb

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Thanks! I have been looking into trunk shows in LA which is why I asked about those three specific tailors since they upcoming trunk shows in Apr-June.
Paolo Martorano can help you out with the look are trying to achieve. I believe he services LA as well.
 

tdang

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Just out of curiosity, is there a long term strategy with your bespoke comisions within the framework of building practical and well rounded wardrobe?

Or

If at all, is there another specific methodology that you have for selecting your comisions?

I do try to list out everything I want in a year, allocate a budget and stick to it.

I started ordering in earnest last year, and though I have collected maybe 10% of what I ordered, I think at this point it is mostly about ‘wants’ rather than ‘needs’ (the only two pieces I really 'need' are the very first order with Liverano: grey suit, navy jacket).

Because of that, when I come to an appointment with a list of what I want, I am very flexible and usually end up changing 50-60% of it, based on what the tailor/ fitter or my wife nudges me to do.

For example, I went to see Zizolfi the other day wanting to get a DB 6-ply, a navy pinstripe SB, a Fox Tweed jacket and a linen suit. I ended up ordering only 1 out of those 4 things, which is the navy pinstripe. The rest of the choices were a direct result of the exchange between my wife, me and Gianluca Migliarotti (big thanks to @Crispyj for suggesting that I see G in Milan!). I walked away with a sage gabardine (!!!) sport coat (apparently it’s a thing in Naples), a funky James Crowther tweed jacket, an olive corduroy suit and a dark green 2 ply DB to replace the 6 ply I initially have in mind. I like it better this way - it would be a little more monotonous and transactional if I were to go in, get measured and just tell them what I want. It’s fun to be challenged.

For example, I would never have considered getting something like this crazy ventless glencheck DB jacket, but after trying on Gianluca’s own I could really see myself in it:

5EC6D3E1-0FAC-4834-8119-D427F88675CF.jpeg


As for my own general guidelines, when I order suits I generally stick to darker shades, and for sport coats 95% of what I get have to work with jeans (that mostly has to do with cloths and not cuts though, I find a structured Milanese coat still works fine with jeans - it’s just a different look).
 

JohnMRobie

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I am embarking on my first bespoke suit experience and conducting some due diligence of tailors. I'm wondering who has experience with Steven Hitchcock, Henry Poole, and Edward Sexton and what insight anyone can provide on the experience?

I have certain requirements so looking to best match the tailor with what I'm looking for. I am looking for a more classic 30s-40s cut with full trousers that are much wider than the current trends. I also require high armholes with a flat armhole base, more in Fred Astaire/Gene Kelly style to allow maximum arm range without moving the chest of the jacket as much.

I'm also looking into local Los Angeles tailors and if there are any others with trunk shows in Los Angeles, I'll investigate them as well. I've also purchased on fabric already so I won't be needing help selecting the right fabric.
The tailors you listed off all have very different aesthetics/methods/styles. Haven’t tried them but Hitchcock is drape. I think @JHWilliams uses him extensively (maybe exclusively?) Poole is pretty middle of the road, classic. I think @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes has used Poole and likes it. Sexton has more flair typically. I think @Andy57 has Sexton and I really like gazman’s Sexton stuff.

Re: your trouser considerations I’d worry less about it tbh. You’re going bespoke not RTW. None of the tailors you mentioned default to a slim fit trouser as far as I know but if you push them on it it’s not too hard to end up in cosplay territory and you’ll have fittings to discuss along the way and see it in practice rather than theorizing.
 

Andy57

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I am embarking on my first bespoke suit experience and conducting some due diligence of tailors. I'm wondering who has experience with Steven Hitchcock, Henry Poole, and Edward Sexton and what insight anyone can provide on the experience?

I have certain requirements so looking to best match the tailor with what I'm looking for. I am looking for a more classic 30s-40s cut with full trousers that are much wider than the current trends. I also require high armholes with a flat armhole base, more in Fred Astaire/Gene Kelly style to allow maximum arm range without moving the chest of the jacket as much.

I'm also looking into local Los Angeles tailors and if there are any others with trunk shows in Los Angeles, I'll investigate them as well. I've also purchased on fabric already so I won't be needing help selecting the right fabric.
Steven Hitchcock and Edward Sexton are pretty much at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of cut.

Steven cuts a very soft, very draped jacket. He also makes superb trousers and will recommend a high-rise, fishtail back cut that I highly recommend.

Edward Sexton, of course, makes a very structured, strong-shouldered and roped shouldered jacket with wide lapels in distinctive style. Of course, both tailors are technically able to make you anything you want, but you would not go to Hitchcock and ask for a pagoda shouldered, heavily padded jacket, just as there is little point in asking Sexton to make a classic drape cut jacket. You have to know what you want and how that might relate to the tailor's house style.

I have no experience with Henry Poole, but, as stated above, Poole is more middle of the road English tailoring.

All three tailors cut a small, high armhole, so you don't need to worry about that. Indeed, if you go into their ateliers and start telling them their job, you won't get very far. Listen to them, talk to the cutter (Steven is his own cutter and Nina Pennington is Sexton's cutter although if you see them in Los Angeles, you'll probably talk to Dominic Sebag-Montefiori).

It's worth noting that both Fred Astaire and Gene Kelly (I think) were clients of Anderson and Sheppard. Hitchcock is part of the A&S family tree, while Poole and Sexton are not.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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The tailors you listed off all have very different aesthetics/methods/styles. Haven’t tried them but Hitchcock is drape. I think @JHWilliams uses him extensively (maybe exclusively?) Poole is pretty middle of the road, classic. I think @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes has used Poole and likes it. Sexton has more flair typically. I think @Andy57 has Sexton and I really like gazman’s Sexton stuff.

Re: your trouser considerations I’d worry less about it tbh. You’re going bespoke not RTW. None of the tailors you mentioned default to a slim fit trouser as far as I know but if you push them on it it’s not too hard to end up in cosplay territory and you’ll have fittings to discuss along the way and see it in practice rather than theorizing.

Thanks for the shout @Jmr928.

@Cotillion, as was mentioned, I have experience with Henry Poole (about 12 or 13 suits from them), but TBF I haven't purchased from them in about a decade. My cutter at that time was Craig Featherstone, who has since left, and I have interacted many many times with
Simon Cundey (who was always around for the trunk shows).

I feel confident stating that neither of those gentlemen would suggest the style you are after is something they specialize in. A Poole suit is an English suit that is well proportioned and runs close to the body (not tight though). Think James Bond. Their jackets do offer fantastic freedom of movement so you can hop or run around if the need arises.

Hitchcock might be your best bet of the choices you mentioned as he cuts fuller trousers and can slim down the jacket if need be. IIRC, A&S made suits for Astaire, and considering Hitchcock spent time there, seems like a logical selection.
 

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