Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Coxsackie]

Overall very nice, but I do find the buttoning point to be very high. It is something I have been struggling with myself, but have now needed up having it half an inch or so above my belly button. But of course it's also a question of the proportions of your body (long legs/short upper body etc.).

If that's a reference to my project, look at the first set of pics from a few pages ago (higher up on the same page). The "apparent" buttoning point in the second set of photos is just where he pinned it today.

 

[venividivicibj]

You look so happy.

 

[Mr. Six]

Here's some pics from my forward fitting today. You will notice some substantial improvements from last week's snaps.



^ Jacket has been lengthened slightly, which has thrown the quarters off. They will be a little more open than this.

What I really like is they way they have cut the trousers to hide my bow legs!



^ Trousers will be lengthened by 5mm.



Sleeve pitch and trouser pooling behind knees have both been fixed.



Both I and the master tailor were happy with this. The suit will now be finished, and sent to me in about one month, at which point I will post further pics and also reveal the identity of the tailor. I am not aware that any other SF member has ever used them.

Comments welcome as always. It's not too late to make changes.

The trousers really do look great, and the jacket is much cleaner. It seems to me like there was more room in the chest in the initial photos, resulting in a bit of drape, which I thought suited you well. I also think a slightly lower buttoning point for the final would be good. It's coming together nicely!

 

[grade]

Here's some pics from my forward fitting today. You will notice some substantial improvements from last week's snaps.



^ Jacket has been lengthened slightly, which has thrown the quarters off. They will be a little more open than this.

What I really like is they way they have cut the trousers to hide my bow legs!



^ Trousers will be lengthened by 5mm.



Sleeve pitch and trouser pooling behind knees have both been fixed.




Both I and the master tailor were happy with this. The suit will now be finished, and sent to me in about one month, at which point I will post further pics and also reveal the identity of the tailor. I am not aware that any other SF member has ever used them.

Comments welcome as always. It's not too late to make changes.

The trousers really do look great, and the jacket is much cleaner. It seems to me like there was more room in the chest in the initial photos, resulting in a bit of drape, which I thought suited you well. I also think a slightly lower buttoning point for the final would be good. It's coming together nicely!

Yeah, I agree with this. There was a little more of an hour glass effect in the first set of photos which I quite liked. Maybe a bit of waist suppression could achieve a similar look? As it stands now, the jacket looks a touch boxy to me.

 

[Coxsackie]

Here's a side-by-side with some cropping to match the two shots up better:



You can see from this that the jacket was pinned higher than its "true" buttoning point in the second shot.

I do agree though, that some more adjustment would give the jacket a better shape. I've contacted the tailor about this. Closing at the "true" buttoning point (as in the first photo), reshaping the quarters, and maybe a tiny bit of extra waist suppression, should hopefully remove the boxiness apparent in the second photo.

As for my deadpan expression, well - this is a robopose after all!

 

[Leaves]

Hi guys, here are some pics from the Sartoria Corcos Trunk Show in Stockholm last weekend.

I have opted for a slightly loser and longer fit than what Corcos normaly makes for my last commissions. I think it created a better balance on my body type.

Coat for the wife (Kotaro San makes one or two styles of women's coats and also trousers)

Coat for myself as well.

Lighting was a bit poor, sorry guys. Pictures by @gusvs

 

[greger]

That is a nice flair.

 

[Coxsackie]

Looks super-clean, Patrik. What is the cloth? Some kind of donegal?

 

[Leaves]



Looks super-clean, Patrik. What is the cloth? Some kind of donegal?

It's a normal tweed, but not a Donegal. I'd love to be one of those guys who knows exactly the fabric and mill and how many threads were used per square centimeter. But I'm not. I honestly don't get all worked up over the exact details of cloth, if I like the look and the feel of it I go for it.

Green seems to be very popular these days. What's behind this, waddaya guys think?

 

[Leaves]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

That is a nice flair.

Thx Greger.

 

[Coxsackie]

I can't say exactly why green is becoming a hot colour, but it seems that some menswear bloggers have predicted it as being such.

Can't provide any links to prove this. I just remember reading it somewhere.

I've also read that the skinny trouser/skinny tie/skinny lapel/short jacket length trend has finally had its day - a good ten years after Thom Browne's 2006 collection hit the catwalk.

But, like mullets and 3/4 cargo pants and overlong tatty jean hems, it will probably take another five years or so to fade away.

 

[Sander]



Hi guys, here are some pics from the Sartoria Corcos Trunk Show in Stockholm last weekend.

I have opted for a slightly loser and longer fit than what Corcos normaly makes for my last commissions. I think it created a better balance on my body type.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Coat for the wife (Kotaro San makes one or two styles of women's coats and also trousers)

Coat for myself as well.

Lighting was a bit poor, sorry guys. Pictures by @gusvs

Looks great, good decision on the "new" fit, I think.

It's a normal tweed, but not a Donegal. I'd love to be one of those guys who knows exactly the fabric and mill and how many threads were used per square centimeter. But I'm not. I honestly don't get all worked up over the exact details of cloth, if I like the look and the feel of it I go for it.

Green seems to be very popular these days. What's behind this, waddaya guys think?

Is it a herringbone or plain? I think the green jacket can be explained by that it is a great color, but has not a very "city" connotation. Now, as people dress more and more casually, this has become a real alternative to blue jackets etc., a few good examples were posted; voila.

 

[Dannefalk]

Speaking of green. I received my green double-breasted suit from Tailorable and it turned out really great, I just snapped a picture while visiting Kotaro for a fitting, therefore its not the best picture:

Details: No name mill, vintage dark green flannel, ventless, no backpockets on the trousers, double pleats with 5 cm cuffs.



Sneaking in a very dark pic from Kotaros work:

 

[Braddock]

Second fitting at B&Tailor.

 

[Sander]



Speaking of green. I received my green double-breasted suit from Tailorable and it turned out really great, I just snapped a picture while visiting Kotaro for a fitting, therefore its not the best picture:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Details: No name mill, vintage dark green flannel, ventless, no backpockets on the trousers, double pleats with 5 cm cuffs. Sneaking in a very dark pic from Kotaros work:

That db looks really nice, will have to steal next time I'm in Stockholm. But what's up with the pocket placement? Looks really high. And that fitting with Kotaro is a navy... something?