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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    "You ... don't know what you want. Luigi knows ... what you want."

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    1 person likes this.
  2. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Would you pay more if the experience and product was up to par?
     
  3. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Why would he have to pay more for the product to be as he originally wanted and was promised?
     
  4. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    I'm not sure I understand what you are asking but I currently use two tailors and both charge similar prices to ambrosi, maybe a little more. I've generally found that, ambrosi notwithstanding, pricing is consistent with quality. I've had much better and more consistent results, and significantly more willingness to stand behind the product, with the tailors charging top dollar. I spent years trying to find find a second, less expensive tailor and eventually decided that paying a higher price was worth it. So I think the answer to your question is yes.
     
  5. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    Enough M. Brosi talk I think!
     
    5 people like this.
  6. PaintSplattered

    PaintSplattered Senior member

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    Having no experience with bespoke, only one MTM suit, I want to ask this; would it be considered rude to use a well fitting suit, sport coat, or pair of trousers as an example of what I consider to be a well fitting piece? I ask because, having measured many items of my own clothing, I realize measurements aren't everything and the shape of a garment can make a difference. I can cross my arms comfortably in a sport coat that measures the same across the chest and slightly smaller in the shoulders, and when I have my blazer on I can almost cross my arms but the fabric pulls slightly in the back. The blazer has more structure though, and the shape of the back is different. As it takes the shape of my shoulders and chest it is becoming more comfortable, and most of my jackets have lighter canvassing. It takes time to adjust, which is certainly something I am going to remember in the future.

    I guess my point is, a tailor could spot other things I might not see or be able to verbalize well. The tailor could do this by simply looking at the piece of clothing I considered to be well fitting if I wore it there and didn't insist on a copy of it, but used it as an example of a well fitting piece I am comfortable in all day.

    edited to add: on my MTM suit, the shop owner measured a suit coat they had in stock that fit me well and measured trousers I was picking up that day. That's where the idea for this post came from, if it seems bizarre.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
  7. bleu

    bleu Well-Known Member

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    Sweden
    First fitting of my double-breasted overcoat from Zaremba. Cloth is navy wool 760 grms 25 oz from Dugdale.

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    5 people like this.
  8. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Senior member

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    A lot of times a tailor will ask you to wear something you like or think fits well to the initial consult. And even if they don't, knowing and referencing what you like is what the bespoke experience is all about. A good tailor will likely crank out something perfectly nice even if you're totally mum about what you want. However, as has been mentioned here, their idea of what works well may not be yours. And so any insight you can lend will make for a better result (albeit on a subjective, personal level).
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Well-Known Member

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    Stockholm
    Last fitting for a navy sharkskin suit from Kotaro Miyahira:

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    Trousers will be shortened slightly (as seen on the right leg) and vents will be closed, other from that we are good to go.

    Regards,

    Oliver
     
    8 people like this.
  10. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    A fitting for a "shooting jacket" with Steed today in London:

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    10 people like this.
  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I think the jacket will look better as a 3 r 2.5. Are you planning on having the leather piece on top of your shoulder?
     
  12. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Are you worried this will look contumey and affected where you live?
     
  13. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    I respect your opinion. But it's a 2-button. I'm not going to have a leather piece added. I discussed with Edwin having some quilting over the left shoulder (as I'm left handed), but we agreed that would be too much with all the other details.

    Have we just met? [​IMG]

    No, I'm not. The only obvious thing is that the jacket has bellows pockets...well, that and the box pleat and half belt in back. I don't think it will look costumey. Matthew started calling it a shooting jacket. I just wanted it to look a certain way...but after we started calling it that it sort of took on a life of its own!
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Ah, didn't realise you weren't opting for a leather shoulder guard (which would have pushed it over the edge for me). Good call, I think this will look great.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I have a friend in San Francisco who's a restaurateur and hunter. He wears shooting jackets for sport, but also for casual use. I don't know if the shooting patch would suit Andy, but I also don't think they're necessarily costumey either.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    My newest ongoing bespoke project is that I've decided to switch from huntsman to Davide Taub at Gieves. Meeting with him next month. Not sure if first project will be a double-breasted summer suit with high roping or a tweed or flannel suit with set in shoulders. Whichever isn't the first will likely be the second. They are both pretty awesome.

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    4 people like this.
  17. DavidLane

    DavidLane Senior member

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    Andy are you planning to actually shoot in it? I am curious as I may have one made at some point, and I wanted to know which type of back pleat would work the best. My original thoughts were for a bi-swing but I like the center pleat better from a visual standpoint. Was this a preference or recommendation from Steed/yourself?

    As for the shoulder patch it really doesn't do much (in terms of shooting or aesthetically). I would recommend a microfiber lining in the breast pocket for your shooting glasses if you do plan to shoot in it.

    DL-
     
  18. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Umm can we see your huntsman?!?!?!?!
     
  19. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    ^ sure. I think some of them are on the huntsman thread but I will take pics next wear.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I love Taub's work. In interviews, he's expressed admiration for designers such as Rick Owens, which is unusual for guys in the world of classic tailoring. There are some images of really interesting, slightly more avant garde coats on his blog.

    Are you meeting him in London or NYC?



    I've thought about getting a microfiber pocket in sport coats for sunglasses, but am unsure how the material reacts to dry cleaning. Do you happen to know?
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2016

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