Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[lordsuperb]

Ok, this settles it, pleats it is, no flat front. I'll be sure to convey to my tailor I don't want a tight waist and a soft waistband.

Heh, all my ancestors were peasants, so it fits!

I think they're less out there than the wide waistband up there. I'd only be wearing the trousers as part of a whole suit, so I don't think it matters that much.

I like this B&Tailor iteration.

What look are you trying to achieve with this waistband?

 

[FlyingHorker]

What look are you trying to achieve with this waistband?

In my head: soft, seamless, but casual with the belt.

It has a subtle flare to it that most people won't notice but me.

 

[Sreezy36]

Ok, this settles it, pleats it is, no flat front. I'll be sure to convey to my tailor I don't want a tight waist and a soft waistband.

Heh, all my ancestors were peasants, so it fits!

I think they're less out there than the wide waistband up there. I'd only be wearing the trousers as part of a whole suit, so I don't think it matters that much.

I like this B&Tailor iteration.

Bespoke Hollywood trousers are 🔥🔥🔥🔥. Definitely not very common and more on the novelty side but they are lovely. And for the love of God…..Please do yourself a favor and spec your trousers with double or single pleats. You won’t regret it.

 

[bdavro23]

In my head: soft, seamless, but casual with the belt.

It has a subtle flare to it that most people won't notice but me.

I feel like this waistband belongs to one of those early 90's belts with metal on the tip, worn with cowboy boots. Like how one of the baddies in Roadhouse would dress...

 

[classicvox]

First commission from Antonio Pastena being worked on. Cloth is a navy hopsack from Drago in the BluFeel collection. I can’t wait to receive it! I’m also going to try and see him in Napoli when I’m there in June for him to take more complete/better measurements and see the jacket on me.

 

[Megakurth]

First commission from Antonio Pastena being worked on. Cloth is a navy hopsack from Drago in the BluFeel collection. I can’t wait to receive it! I’m also going to try and see him in Napoli when I’m there in June for him to take more complete/better measurements and see the jacket on me.
View attachment 1792145

I did my first jacket with Antonio in the Drago Navy BluFeel. Very versatile jacket

 

[Crispyj]

Just finished my first fitting with Zizolfi. Double breasted jacket in navy Standeven Oxbridge flannel. It's going to come out amazing! Forgot pics...
Oxbridge flannel has a more compact weave than Fox and Drapers. Just as soft but more body.

Single breasted jacket on the way in olive/taupe Spring Ram. Picture color is off. Really hard to capture.


And future order for another double breasted jacket, the original 6ply.

 

[kid1002]

Just finished my first fitting with Zizolfi. Double breasted jacket in navy Standeven Oxbridge flannel. It's going to come out amazing! Forgot pics...
Oxbridge flannel has a more compact weave than Fox and Drapers. Just as soft but more body.

Single breasted jacket on the way in olive/taupe Spring Ram. Picture color is off. Really hard to capture.
View attachment 1793044

And future order for another double breasted jacket, the original 6ply.
View attachment 1793045

I've heard very good things about Woodhose 6ply. Curious to see how this will come out!

 

[Crispyj]

I've heard very good things about Woodhose 6ply. Curious to see how this will come out!

Yea, felt like a 12ply vs the Draper's 6ply 😂

 

[classicvox]

Just finished my first fitting with Zizolfi. Double breasted jacket in navy Standeven Oxbridge flannel. It's going to come out amazing! Forgot pics...
Oxbridge flannel has a more compact weave than Fox and Drapers. Just as soft but more body.

Single breasted jacket on the way in olive/taupe Spring Ram. Picture color is off. Really hard to capture.
View attachment 1793044

And future order for another double breasted jacket, the original 6ply.
View attachment 1793045

Hoping to see them in Napoli in a few weeks as well. To have something made by what many consider to be a real master, I really can’t even fathom it.

 

[me.spoke]

Hi again.

I wanted to show you the outcome of my second order from Mr Błoński (a tailor based in Warsaw - I presented an odd jacket he made for me some time ago in this thread).

Conception-wise this order was nothing extraordinary. I have been missing a grey suit in my wardrobe so I decided to change that and I commissioned a three-piece single breasted one in 120s Scabal wool.

I wanted the jacket to have an Italian flair to it, therefore it has a light construction, minimal shoulder padding, 3 roll-2 buttoning, barchetta and spalla camicia. The lapels are wide, albeit a little narrower than in the previous order, the gorge is lower, and the shoulder width reduced to better correspond with my physique.

The waistcoat is nothing fancy: single-breasted without lapels. I am not sure how it is usually done, but it is also fully canvassed instead of fused. The tailor was quite surprised I insisted on doing it this way, but the drape justifies my stubbornness The back is also in the primary fabric instead of just the lining.

The trousers feature double pleats, a 5 cm turnup, side adjusters and an extended waistband. I went for a generous hem width (21.5 cm) which is unusual for me, but allows for a better drape.

All in all, I am very pleased with the results. Any feedback will be much appreciated.

Sorry for spamming - I took many pictures

 

[wilcthree]

Hi again.

I wanted to show you the outcome of my second order from Mr Błoński (a tailor based in Warsaw - I presented an odd jacket he made for me some time ago in this thread).

Conception-wise this order was nothing extraordinary. I have been missing a grey suit in my wardrobe so I decided to change that and I commissioned a three-piece single breasted one in 120s Scabal wool.

I wanted the jacket to have an Italian flair to it, therefore it has a light construction, minimal shoulder padding, 3 roll-2 buttoning, barchetta and spalla camicia. The lapels are wide, albeit a little narrower than in the previous order, the gorge is lower, and the shoulder width reduced to better correspond with my physique.

The waistcoat is nothing fancy: single-breasted without lapels. I am not sure how it is usually done, but it is also fully canvassed instead of fused. The tailor was quite surprised I insisted on doing it this way, but the drape justifies my stubbornness The back is also in the primary fabric instead of just the lining.

The trousers feature double pleats, a 5 cm turnup, side adjusters and an extended waistband. I went for a generous hem width (21.5 cm) which is unusual for me, but allows for a better drape.

All in all, I am very pleased with the results. Any feedback will be much appreciated.

Sorry for spamming - I took many pictures


View attachment 1793648 View attachment 1793649 View attachment 1793650 View attachment 1793651 View attachment 1793652 View attachment 1793654 View attachment 1793655 View attachment 1793658 View attachment 1793659 View attachment 1793660 View attachment 1793661 View attachment 1793662 View attachment 1793663 View attachment 1793664 View attachment 1793665 View attachment 1793666 View attachment 1793667 View attachment 1793668 View attachment 1793683

Beautiful suit. Hats off to your tailor. Are the shoulders spalla camicia or are they structured in any way?

 

[me.spoke]

Beautiful suit. Hats off to your tailor. Are the shoulders spalla camicia or are they structured in any way?

Thanks! Regarding the shoulder - the only thing I am sure of is that there is no padding. The tailor, aged 69 years, has not been familiar with the term “spalla camicia” until very recently, so I am not sure if technically this is an “orthodox” version of such a shoulder construction. Basically, the question he asks when you commission a suit is ‘Do you want the creases on your sleeves like most people these days?’

 

[wilcthree]

Thanks! Regarding the shoulder - the only thing I am sure of is that there is no padding. The tailor, aged 69 years, has not been familiar with the term “spalla camicia” until very recently, so I am not sure if technically this is an “orthodox” version of such a shoulder construction. Basically, the question he asks when you commission a suit is ‘Do you want the creases on your sleeves like most people these days?’

For there to be no padding, the shoulder line looks pretty solid, especially with spalla camicia. 👌🏾 I’m wondering if this is attributed to how the shoulders were cut, given you mentioned that the shoulder width had been reduced, or to way the non-padded jacket hangs off your shoulders, which, I’m guessing, are likely square? Either way, the line it casts looks good. Bravo again.

 

[taxgenius]

For there to be no padding, the shoulder line looks pretty solid, especially with spalla camicia. 👌🏾 I’m wondering if this is attributed to how the shoulders were cut, given you mentioned that the shoulder width had been reduced, or to way the non-padded jacket hangs off your shoulders, which, I’m guessing, are likely square? Either way, the line it casts looks good. Bravo again.

Maybe they pushed the chest canvass into the shoulders.