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Marshak

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Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan tailor, I believe that he was the head cutter for Kiton before starting his own Sartoria. After some years, his son Pino had also joined the family business.

I have not had the opportunity to check IRL their garments, only observed some online, and in general terms I like both the silhouette and few details - if shown in the images - of their work. I think that they are now doing RTW as well, so they have all the range, Bespoke, MTM, RTW.

Cheers,

Dimitris


Dear Dimitri,

To be accurate it's the Jean-Manuel Moreau MTM offer made by Orazio Luciano. Its cut is a bit different from the usual patterns used by Orazio. Having a JMMxOrazio suit myself, I can testify it's an excellent offer regarding both the fit and the handmade. Sadly their prices have increased continuously these last years, diminishing the quality/price ratio.
 

maxalex

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Not for me, but this is a nice specimen of a boating jacket, out of a cloth that does not remind striped suiting fabric at all. FWIW, this is the same gentleman who commissioned the Fox "Negroni" tweed, again from Luciano.

View attachment 1742642

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Please, do check the perfect pattern alignment / matching of his left (right for us) shoulder-sleeve.
1643047967035.png
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear Dimitri,

To be accurate it's the Jean-Manuel Moreau MTM offer made by Orazio Luciano. Its cut is a bit different from the usual patterns used by Orazio. Having a JMMxOrazio suit myself, I can testify it's an excellent offer regarding both the fit and the handmade. Sadly their prices have increased continuously these last years, diminishing the quality/price ratio.


Dear @Marshak,

Indeed it is, and the image was actually from their tumblr which I frequently visit. I purposely avoided to name its exact provenance, as I am not 100% familiar with the StyFo rules and I didn't want that to be in any way taken as an indirect ad.

I am sorry to learn about the recent price increases, alas, clothing was/is not alone in this!


Best,

Dimitris
 

bdavro23

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So i wanted to get one jacket that was a super bold, sort of ****-you pattern.

I was thinking a big houndstooth in gray. I can't seem to find a fabric that matches that. Barring said fabric i was thinking a huge glen plaid check sort of thing.

Here's where it gets challenging. The two checked fabrics i like. I'm also thinking for a future commission a suit in a gray 3p Glen plaid check type of fabric. So while i like the all-gray fabric i think it would be too similar to a future commission. Also, i am not sure the pattern is BIG enough. So i am deciding between the two checks for one coat and the houndstooth. I just don't know which to prioritize. The houndstooth is the size i like but not the exact color i was looking for. But i really like it. I also like the two checks.

So knowing what I am looking for which one should i go with first. I was told the houndstooth fabric would sell out first. No idea if i buy that. Then which check.

This jacket is intentionally a bold jacket that should stand out. View attachment 1742019 View attachment 1742020 View attachment 1742021

There is a difference between bold and difficult to wear. One of the defining characteristics is the amount of contrast within the colors of the cloth. Big bold patterns with relatively little contrast are pretty easy to wear/ pair. Cloth that has a lot of contrast are much more difficult to wear well due to the pairing difficulties. Not impossible, but definitely harder and requires a lot more work to get it right in my opinion.

Another thing to consider is that small repeating patterns, especially with high contrast like the houndstooth patterns you posted can often look fuzzy, in an out of focus kind of way, making them harder to wear. If someone has a big wardrobe, they can afford a few pieces that are harder to wear or are part of really specific "fits", but I've always personally found that pieces like that dont come out of the closet very often, sometimes at all.

I'm sure @Despos can give you better advice than that, but now you've got another opinion. Whatever you do, post pictures!
 

SeamasterLux

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Dear Dimitri,

To be accurate it's the Jean-Manuel Moreau MTM offer made by Orazio Luciano. Its cut is a bit different from the usual patterns used by Orazio. Having a JMMxOrazio suit myself, I can testify it's an excellent offer regarding both the fit and the handmade. Sadly their prices have increased continuously these last years, diminishing the quality/price ratio.
But that's due to Orazio Luciano's own prices hikes.
 

Marshak

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But that's due to Orazio Luciano's own prices hikes.

Of course. That said it's still the most competitive MTM offer from Orazio on the planet regarding the price and the fit. It's a regrettable JMM didn't find a cheaper alternative. They tried this with a Korean maker few years ago but their offer, without website, is a bit too confidential.
 

SeamasterLux

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Of course. That said it's still the most competitive MTM offer from Orazio on the planet regarding the price and the fit. It's a regrettable JMM didn't find a cheaper alternative. They tried this with a Korean maker few years ago but their offer, without website, is a bit too confidential.

That's precisely the point. He tried with several makers to find a solid alternative but never managed to. I tried the Korean once twice. Was definitely not on par with Orazio Luciano.
So all in all, JMM still delivers a very solid product, with a great twist to Orazio's usual style. The service delivered is also one of the best in the industry. I'm a big fan. Discloser: JMM became a friend over the years. That does not prevent me from not ordering from other artisan friends I may have or not promote them as much.
 

Marshak

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That's precisely the point. He tried with several makers to find a solid alternative but never managed to. I tried the Korean once twice. Was definitely not on par with Orazio Luciano.
So all in all, JMM still delivers a very solid product, with a great twist to Orazio's usual style. The service delivered is also one of the best in the industry. I'm a big fan. Discloser: JMM became a friend over the years. That does not prevent me from not ordering from other artisan friends I may have or not promote them as much.

I agree. It's certainly the best MTM in Paris. Nevertheless, working myself (as a customer) with a neapolitan atelier which is very consistent and competitive on prices, I'm sure he could develop a great subline.
 

edinatlanta

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There is a difference between bold and difficult to wear. One of the defining characteristics is the amount of contrast within the colors of the cloth. Big bold patterns with relatively little contrast are pretty easy to wear/ pair. Cloth that has a lot of contrast are much more difficult to wear well due to the pairing difficulties. Not impossible, but definitely harder and requires a lot more work to get it right in my opinion.

Another thing to consider is that small repeating patterns, especially with high contrast like the houndstooth patterns you posted can often look fuzzy, in an out of focus kind of way, making them harder to wear. If someone has a big wardrobe, they can afford a few pieces that are harder to wear or are part of really specific "fits", but I've always personally found that pieces like that dont come out of the closet very often, sometimes at all.

I'm sure @Despos can give you better advice than that, but now you've got another opinion. Whatever you do, post pictures!
Yeah like I'm considering all that. Like, I just have a craving for a bold, stupid jacket. There's a guy down here who has a a black-and-white houndstooth or check (can't remember) that is huge. Like, the first pic I posted might be not as bold as his. Anyway, he only wears that jacket. This post really got me going but it's cashmere so I can only wear it like three weeks of the year, here. I guess the point I'm making is: I've seen his coat and I like it. I am aware of all the pitfalls and the opinions about why it's a bad or silly idea are valid. I think that's what I'm going for!

But, not to sound like I'm :foo2: I am not committed to either of those three. The more I think about it, I think if I'm going for something that is explicitly loud and difficult then it has to be something where I'm like: that's the one! Not a help-me-decide fabric. I'm also willing to say that what I'm looking for may not exist.

Does any of what I just said make sense?
 

bdavro23

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Yeah like I'm considering all that. Like, I just have a craving for a bold, stupid jacket. There's a guy down here who has a a black-and-white houndstooth or check (can't remember) that is huge. Like, the first pic I posted might be not as bold as his. Anyway, he only wears that jacket. This post really got me going but it's cashmere so I can only wear it like three weeks of the year, here. I guess the point I'm making is: I've seen his coat and I like it. I am aware of all the pitfalls and the opinions about why it's a bad or silly idea are valid. I think that's what I'm going for!

But, not to sound like I'm :foo2: I am not committed to either of those three. The more I think about it, I think if I'm going for something that is explicitly loud and difficult then it has to be something where I'm like: that's the one! Not a help-me-decide fabric. I'm also willing to say that what I'm looking for may not exist.

Does any of what I just said make sense?

It does make sense, and I've made things for myself and for clients that have pretty limited versatility. However, the cloth you linked to is relatively low contrast and I dont actually find it that bold. It (at least in the photos) resolves to basically a grey jacket. Some examples:

This is a high contrast cloth in a big pattern, which is not versatile at all:
1643128233911.png


This is a low contrast cloth in a big pattern, which is much easier to wear:
1643141458853.png


I think you can accomplish your goal of having a big, bold pattern, without limiting yourself to a cloth you wear twice a year with the same shirt and trousers each time. Either way, I'm looking forward to seeing what you have made.
 

dieworkwear

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Many London Lounge jacketings have a large-scale pattern, but in a color combination and design that are relatively easy to wear. You can wait to see what they come up with in terms of future subscriptions.

I have a few of their tweeds and recently wore the Agnelli tweed they ran many years ago. Pretty easy to wear with grey or brown pants.
 

emptym

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@Ed, I'd get this Marl and Evans undyed check.
Screen Shot 2022-01-25 at 12.52.47 PM.png


S&M has it for a great price in their custom program. They have more than one "Marl and Evans undyed check," but this is the boldest and the best imo. It's a lot like the Breanish run that T4phage did. My favorite sport coat.
 

edinatlanta

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@Ed, I'd get this Marl and Evans undyed check.
View attachment 1743434

S&M has it for a great price in their custom program. They have more than one "Marl and Evans undyed check," but this is the boldest and the best imo. It's a lot like the Breanish run that T4phage did. My favorite sport coat.
Guys.... I... I... I think she might be the one.
 

edinatlanta

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@Ed, I'd get this Marl and Evans undyed check.
View attachment 1743434

S&M has it for a great price in their custom program. They have more than one "Marl and Evans undyed check," but this is the boldest and the best imo. It's a lot like the Breanish run that T4phage did. My favorite sport coat.
And that price...wouldn't be that big of a loss if I stop enjoying it quickly.
 

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