Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

That was not an option!

I personally like striped jackets. Have cloth similar to the one I referenced. It's not as bold of color contrast of the stripe and the ground but the scale of the stripe is the same.
Will make it some day.
Boating cloths can make interesting jackets too.

 

[circumspice]

@edinatlanta I am not sure if those 2 houndstooths in the first photo will really stand out - they are more likely going to resolve to a solid at a distance. I'd recommend looking for a gunclub. The last photo looks like something that would be hard to wear with mid or light grey trousers.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Boating cloths can make interesting jackets too.

Not for me, but this is a nice specimen of a boating jacket, out of a cloth that does not remind striped suiting fabric at all. FWIW, this is the same gentleman who commissioned the Fox "Negroni" tweed, again from Luciano.

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Please, do check the perfect pattern alignment / matching of his left (right for us) shoulder-sleeve.

 

[Despos]

Not for me, but this is a nice specimen of a boating jacket, out of a cloth that does not remind striped suiting fabric at all. FWIW, this is the same gentleman who commissioned the Fox "Negroni" tweed, again from Luciano.

View attachment 1742642

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Please, do check the perfect pattern alignment / matching of his left (right for us) shoulder-sleeve.

@Bespoke DJP
This is about as bold as I like. Don’t think I could wear it myself but some guys can wear this and own it.
Have cut the sleeve to align vertically like this only once before. You have a good eye that you spotted it.

if you want to go deeper in cutting cloth and symmetry.
Cut the cloth on the fold and reverse the top cloth over the bottom. Cut each pattern piece separately so you get seams and darts on the same points of the stripe. When you assemble the jacket the lighter stripe will be on the outside on both right and left front panels. The brown stripe will be inward on both sides and the same on the back and sleeves. The two sides become a mirrored image instead if repeating across and around the jacket.
Cut a seam at the center back of the top collar so the alignment of the stripe matches the body.
Worth the effort to me and I like the visual symmetry it creates.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

@Bespoke DJP
This is about as bold as I like. Don’t think I could wear it myself but some guys can wear this and own it.
Have only cut the sleeve to align vertically like this once before. You have a good eye that you spotted it.

Thank you Dear Sir!

I agree on all counts.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Despos]

@Bespoke DJP
who is Luciano?

 

[Bespoke DJP]

@Bespoke DJP
who is Luciano?

Orazio Luciano is a Neapolitan tailor, I believe that he was the head cutter for Kiton before starting his own Sartoria. After some years, his son Pino had also joined the family business.

I have not had the opportunity to check IRL their garments, only observed some online, and in general terms I like both the silhouette and few details - if shown in the images - of their work. I think that they are now doing RTW as well, so they have all the range, Bespoke, MTM, RTW.

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[edinatlanta]

@edinatlanta I am not sure if those 2 houndstooths in the first photo will really stand out - they are more likely going to resolve to a solid at a distance. I'd recommend looking for a gunclub. The last photo looks like something that would be hard to wear with mid or light grey trousers.

The tannish one in Zegna's lookbook had it paired with some khaki pants and it looked good but that was a highly stylized photo, of course.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

@Bespoke DJP

if you want to go deeper in cutting cloth and symmetry.
Cut the cloth on the fold and reverse the top cloth over the bottom. Cut each pattern piece separately so you get seams and darts on the same points of the stripe. When you assemble the jacket the lighter stripe will be on the outside on both right and left front panels. The brown stripe will be inward on both sides and the same on the back and sleeves. The two sides become a mirrored image instead if repeating across and around the jacket.
Cut a seam at the center back of the top collar so the alignment of the stripe matches the body.
Worth the effort to me and I like the visual symmetry it creates.

Dear @Despos,

I am glad that you edited and offered us the above elaboration on symmetry; truly educational & inspiring!

Quite controversial, but I can picture it as creating a much more interesting result. Yes, in deed; the absolute mirror image! Should I ever contemplate a Sport Coat (or Caban coat) which may deserve such a treatment, I will definitely discuss it with my tailor in Athens, Greece - Mr. Kourlas - who, although experienced enough, is always willing to listen to new, interesting ideas.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Bespoke DJP]

The tannish one in Zegna's lookbook had it paired with some khaki pants and it looked good but that was a highly stylized photo, of course.

Dear @edinatlanta,

Do you happen to have this image and, if yes, could you post it here?


Best,

Dimitris

 

[edinatlanta]

Dear @edinatlanta,

Do you happen to have this image and, if yes, could you post it here?


Best,

Dimitris

I would post it if I had it!

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I would post it if I had it!

It's OK, thank you!

You need to know that if the fabrics are the ones that I am posting here below (as it happens I had saved this image), and I estimate that they are, then they were offered in the EZ Anteprima FW' 2019-20, a seasonal collection which is immediately retired when the following collection (SS' 2020 in this case) is launched; one may find fabrics only in cloth merchants who by chance may had already stocked them.

They both were a top-tier Ermenegildo Zegna fabric's line, namely "14Milmil14": 96% S'180 (14microns) wool, 4% cashmere (also 14microns) at approx. 330grams; I remember that our fellow @Crispyj had commissioned a sport coat from this very Anteprima and line in an olive green plaid.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[K. Nights]

Not for me, but this is a nice specimen of a boating jacket, out of a cloth that does not remind striped suiting fabric at all. FWIW, this is the same gentleman who commissioned the Fox "Negroni" tweed, again from Luciano.

View attachment 1742642

Best,

Dimitris


PS
Please, do check the perfect pattern alignment / matching of his left (right for us) shoulder-sleeve.

Mark Cho of The Armoury had a suit made in the same cloth. Agree it looks better as a blazer, but it's a pretty unique cloth regardless.

 

[edinatlanta]

It's OK, thank you!

You need to know that if the fabrics are the ones that I am posting here below (as it happens I had saved this image), and I estimate that they are, then they were offered in the EZ Anteprima FW' 2019-20, a seasonal collection which is immediately retired when the following collection (SS' 2020 in this case) is launched; one may find fabrics only in cloth merchants who by chance may had already stocked them.

They both were a top-tier Ermenegildo Zegna fabric's line, namely "14Milmil14": 96% S'180 (14microns) wool, 4% cashmere (also 14microns) at approx. 330grams; I remember that our fellow @Crispyj had commissioned a sport coat from this very Anteprima and line in an olive green plaid.

View attachment 1742725

Best,

Dimitris

I think the color is a little different but the layout was the same with a blue check on the page.

 

[Krish the Fish]

It's OK, thank you!

You need to know that if the fabrics are the ones that I am posting here below (as it happens I had saved this image), and I estimate that they are, then they were offered in the EZ Anteprima FW' 2019-20, a seasonal collection which is immediately retired when the following collection (SS' 2020 in this case) is launched; one may find fabrics only in cloth merchants who by chance may had already stocked them.

They both were a top-tier Ermenegildo Zegna fabric's line, namely "14Milmil14": 96% S'180 (14microns) wool, 4% cashmere (also 14microns) at approx. 330grams; I remember that our fellow @Crispyj had commissioned a sport coat from this very Anteprima and line in an olive green plaid.

View attachment 1742725

Best,

Dimitris

I think the color is a little different but the layout was the same with a blue check on the page.

These look a lot like the houndstooth in Piacenza’s Dunes book. I have a jacket getting made up in one of the houndstooth patterns in that book.

EDIT: Here's a link to the book: https://www.piacenza1733.com/bunch/en/78-dunes#/page-4