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Amidé

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On the topic of fancy linings, I just received the lining for my two bespoke tweed jackets.. can’t wait to see the end result of these Dutch Masters..

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Jmr928

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Crompton also talks about the Italians and their shirt collars… there must be something there (fwiw my shirts are all Inglese OTR from NMWA or Proper Cloth, so I have experience with Italian shirts but not quite sure if I have appreciation for their collars. Certainly the handwork aspect is nice but I think lost on me). Budd also travels to the US, any opinion yay or nay for them @dieworkwear ?
As you mentioned the Italians tend to do more handwork. Some have gotten more willing to do remote bespoke if travel isn’t an option which has made trying them to find out more about the collars easier and more appealing to me. D’Avino is the name that constantly comes up as the gold standard but even he will encourage you to do in person measurements and you’ll pay up for the shirts. Luca Avitable would be the next rung down price wise - I don’t know anyone who had a bad experience. Camiceria Sannino and Camiceria Piccolo would be the two in the price point I’d consider being willing to do remote and seem to have kind of made that process their bread and butter.

Re: your Budd question. In addition to trips to the US, Budd has an outpost I believe in DC. The Georgetown store was great to work with but I ended up just getting some pajamas.
 
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RSS

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Re: your Budd question. In addition to trips to the US, Budd has an outpost I believe in DC. The Georgetown store was great to work with but I ended up just getting some pajamas.
Apparently they are having a store closing sale in DC.

 

Jmr928

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Apparently they are having a store closing sale in DC.

Well that was fast. I think it had officially rebranded as a Budd store last year instead of just being a stockist?
 
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Well that was fast. I think it had officially rebranded as a Budd store last year instead of just being a stockist?
It's certainly sad news.
 
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lordsuperb

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That actually went to Corcos 😂
Having multiple tailors is nice but ultimately I would stick with one to two tailors. You’ll establish a good rapport and they’ll be able to do some cool things for you once they figure out your intricacies and personality. It’s also steady business for the tailor which helps them out in the long run.

Enjoy your coat!
 

Crispyj

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Having multiple tailors is nice but ultimately I would stick with one to two tailors. You’ll establish a good rapport and they’ll be able to do some cool things for you once they figure out your intricacies and personality. It’s also steady business for the tailor which helps them out in the long run.

Enjoy your coat!
Thanks! I'm young(ish), so still testing the waters out with different tailors. I like too many of these folks 😂
 

dieworkwear

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Crompton also talks about the Italians and their shirt collars… there must be something there (fwiw my shirts are all Inglese OTR from NMWA or Proper Cloth, so I have experience with Italian shirts but not quite sure if I have appreciation for their collars. Certainly the handwork aspect is nice but I think lost on me). Budd also travels to the US, any opinion yay or nay for them @dieworkwear ?
I've never used Budd for shirts, so I can't comment on their work. However, I believe @Andy57 uses them and I think he always looks great.

Apparently they are having a store closing sale in DC.

There were some amazing deals in there when the sale started. The stock has somewhat dwindled now. For some reason, not all of what they have is accessible through the main page. If people search for names such as Daines & Hathaway, Sterling & Burke, Swaine Adeney Brigg, and even simple words such as trousers, they can pull up more.

I stocked up on some Santa Maria Novella products that I'll be giving as gifts this holiday season. Was a really great sale, although I agree with others that I'm sad to see them go. The store seems like it was underappreciated.
 
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Was a really great sale, although I agree with others that I'm sad to see them go. The store seems like it was underappreciated.
Swaine Adeney Brigg opened a shop in San Francisco back in the late 80's or early 90's. I talked to a fellow in the store and got the idea that someone in the family wanted to live in the Bay Area. It wasn't open long.

I guess I'm in London enough that I don't really need them here ... but it's convenient to have a favorite store nearby. Although at this point in my life I'm not buying much beyond basics that wear out from time to time.
__

I'll also give a thumbs up to Andy57's shirts. Not sure if Budd is the only maker he uses, but I have picked up on his reference to them.
 

Gus

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Swaine Adeney Brigg opened a shop in San Francisco back in the late 80's or early 90's. I talked to a fellow in the store and got the idea that someone in the family wanted to live in the Bay Area. It wasn't open long.
That was a beautiful store. The aroma of fine leather was intense. It was stocked with the finest examples of classic English leather brief cases, suit cases and carrying bags made from fine hides with wonderful finished hardware. Yet, many (most?) of these classic SAB's were far more attractive to look at and to collect than use for regular travel or to take to work in a changing world. Lighter, sleeker, technical materials were taking over these categories and looked more up-to-date along with the revised lighter weight romantic style of Ghurka Bags sold elsewhere. Sadly, on repeated visits, it appeared that these stunning classic examples of fine British leatherwork remained unsold.
 
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taxgenius

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As you mentioned the Italians tend to do more handwork. Some have gotten more willing to do remote bespoke if travel isn’t an option which has made trying them to find out more about the collars easier and more appealing to me. D’Avino is the name that constantly comes up as the gold standard but even he will encourage you to do in person measurements and you’ll pay up for the shirts. Luca Avitable would be the next rung down price wise - I don’t know anyone who had a bad experience. Camiceria Sannino and Camiceria Piccolo would be the two in the price point I’d consider being willing to do remote and seem to have kind of made that process their bread and butter.

Re: your Budd question. In addition to trips to the US, Budd has an outpost I believe in DC. The Georgetown store was great to work with but I ended up just getting some pajamas.
I had good experience with Luca Avitable as well. It's real bespoke.
 

Andy57

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I've never used Budd for shirts, so I can't comment on their work. However, I believe @Andy57 uses them and I think he always looks great.
Thank you, Derek. I do, indeed, use Budd. Although I have used several other shirtmakers, I'm happiest with the cut and fit of Budd.
I'll also give a thumbs up to Andy57's shirts. Not sure if Budd is the only maker he uses, but I have picked up on his reference to them.
Thank you!

I'm sorry to see that the Budd store in Washington DC is closing. It wasn't open for very long. I assume it was a casualty of the pandemic. When I met with James MacAuslen a week or so ago, he made no mention of it. But I'll be in London in two weeks and I'll be sure to ask what happened.
 
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