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FlyingHorker

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I've been able to ask for more open quarters, but find each tailor has their own way of doing it. Liverano has very curved quarters, like this

View attachment 1643163


Steed has more of an X shape


View attachment 1643164


I think it would be hard to get a tailor to change the way they cut their quarters (from angular to curved or vice versa), but the exact style of open quarters should work in concert with the rest of the jacket's silhouettes, so probably not desirable anyway. But open/ closed is an easy request.
The Liverano cut looks like a compilation of the worst of CM based on that picture.

-Short jacket
-Flaring open quarters which expose the tie.
-Tight waist.

I did find this picture though, and it looks like a world of difference from that photo. Dramatic lapel sweep flowing into the quarters.

 

usctrojans31

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Jacket was made in 1985, which means it was likely cut by Dennis Halberry (he retired in 1993 and passed away in 2015).

That's the thing when looking at A&S: you have to look at the garments from the perspective of who cut the jacket, not the house label.
A thousand times this. It's one of the reasons why I always recommend Featherstone to anyone considering a small-shop English tailor. I loved his work at Henry Poole, and I have been consistently underwhelmed with what I have seen come out of Henry Poole since he went solo.

You get the brand-name scale and logistics with an Anderson & Sheppard, Henry Poole, Rubinacci, etc. but you do lose some of the personality and are more prone to potential variance in staff.
 

Despos

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Think of it in the same way it effects a sports team when team members stop playing and new players join the team or a new coach. The dynamics of the team change.The strengths and weaknesses change, The execution is different. Outcomes are different. The new coach changes the way the team functions. Continuity isn't guaranteed.
Tailor shop will change in the same way when tailors/cutters are replaced with new people.
 

edinatlanta

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OK so quick update.

I don't know what happened but the neck on this is off. I couldn't button it. That's ok because I don't think I want to wear it with a tie.

Those same measurements I sent to Kamakura for their MTM shirt program and after one wash, that shirt's sleeves are touch too long (not really a problem) but the neck is substantially too large. The shoulders and chest of both are fine, however.
 

Despos

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OK so quick update.

I don't know what happened but the neck on this is off. I couldn't button it. That's ok because I don't think I want to wear it with a tie.

Those same measurements I sent to Kamakura for their MTM shirt program and after one wash, that shirt's sleeves are touch too long (not really a problem) but the neck is substantially too large. The shoulders and chest of both are fine, however.
Measure each shirt to see if the shirt size is the same as the measurements given to them. Some makers add allowances to neck, cuff and sleeve length to offset shrinkage or errors of the measurements sent to them. Sometimes it's accidental that the shirt was cut differently than the measurements.
If the shirt collar was snug and now is loose or the sleeve length is longer it could be your laundry. Have seen shirts get smashed by pressing equipment that stretches the fabric. This is bad, find a new laundry if this happened.
 

edinatlanta

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Measure each shirt to see if the shirt size is the same as the measurements given to them. Some makers add allowances to neck, cuff and sleeve length to offset shrinkage or errors of the measurements sent to them. Sometimes it's accidental that the shirt was cut differently than the measurements.
If the shirt collar was snug and now is loose or the sleeve length is longer it could be your laundry. Have seen shirts get smashed by pressing equipment that stretches the fabric. This is bad, find a new laundry if this happened.
Thanks! The kamakura shirt was long when I got it and it has shrunk a bit. Im thinking one more wash?
 

joorinainen

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The Liverano cut looks like a compilation of the worst of CM based on that picture.

-Short jacket
-Flaring open quarters which expose the tie.
-Tight waist.

I did find this picture though, and it looks like a world of difference from that photo. Dramatic lapel sweep flowing into the quarters.

Looks great! I love the sweeping lapels and the overall shape of the jacket.
 

induere_to

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I was skateboarding up and down Toronto’s Lakeshore the other day in 35 degree Celsius humidity for three hours and didn’t break a sweat.

By the time I was done cutting this fabric, I was drenched. I could barely see the chalk, I didn’t want to knick the fabric nor did I want to knick my fingers and bleed all over it…

11E52F21-B7E0-42F5-BBD7-93371913B4F4.jpeg


First, I removed the third layer of canvas. I just don’t want it.

E64000E4-1EBA-439D-8459-071348D95703.jpeg


Fabric is Drapers from Jackets and Solaire.

7BC8FA52-2BD7-499E-9F34-8C58B280EB9A.jpeg


D777A94F-739A-4436-9B63-5C3B4512E6CC.jpeg


8C867716-33AE-4884-A572-C82803B5B381.jpeg


Jacket will be double breasted with a shawl lapel so I had to add canvas to make sure it reached the lapel.

836B28D4-4DAD-4D46-8F40-617F697BC233.jpeg


First fitting:

223ACD18-F29E-45FE-AD63-F520083049C1.jpeg
 

brax

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In the past I believe someone else here mentioned that too. It’s a cool idea but I haven’t bothered to ask as I haven’t found it to be overly important. I guess I’m just not that picky for some reason!

Thanks though for your thoughts Ed and I’m glad you like them. I have another bolo in progress with this fellow as I have had a particular design and idea in mind for quite some time and I really like him and his work and trust him to do a great job.

After that however, I promised my wife I would take a good long break for awhile!
Wonder who that “someone else” was? Your new project look great but would look much better without a swivel.
EA9FEC16-4DE7-4893-9A67-1D5E099762F9.jpeg
 

dieworkwear

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Some potentially uplifting news. It seems like international travel might resume in a couple of months Maybe tailors and shoemakers will be able to visit the US by Christmas.

 

classicalthunde

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Some potentially uplifting news. It seems like international travel might resume in a couple of months Maybe tailors and shoemakers will be able to visit the US by Christmas.

Fingers crossed! Although I’m confused how some tailors are able to have trunk shows here (Liverano and Liverano has a trunk show at The Armoury in a couple weeks), while other Italian tailors are not able to gain entry for their trunk shows…
 

hpreston

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Fingers crossed! Although I’m confused how some tailors are able to have trunk shows here (Liverano and Liverano has a trunk show at The Armoury in a couple weeks), while other Italian tailors are not able to gain entry for their trunk shows…
If I’m not mistaken, the current crop of trunk shows at the Armoury are virtual. You have your appointment in the shop, the gents in the shop have try on garments and fabric books, but you are virtually seen by the tailors still in Europe or Japan.
 

classicalthunde

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If I’m not mistaken, the current crop of trunk shows at the Armoury are virtual. You have your appointment in the shop, the gents in the shop have try on garments and fabric books, but you are virtually seen by the tailors still in Europe or Japan.
Their IG account certainly makes it seem like they’ll be present: “they will be in New York to take new orders and preform fittings for their bespoke Florentine tailoring”

 

FlowableFill

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In the shoegazing podcast with Nicholas Templeman, I seem to remember him stating that you can come to the U.S. but you have to quarantine for two weeks.
 

Rithrin

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Just started a bespoke blazer project with the guys at Tailor's Keep in SF, same folks that did the Mersolair mocha linen suit for @UrbanComposition . They recently got in the new Fox Sport book, and I loved the FS12 "Bright Navy" swatch. I know there's a lot of hate for brass buttons, but I found these very clean buttons sans anchors or other insignias.

Going 6x2 double breasted with patch pockets. Super excited about it. Will get my first round of fitting with the garment in about 1.5 months.

1628288890773.png
1628290034042.png
 

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