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jimney

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Looking for pictures of Anderson and Sheppard suits and jackets. Anyone willing to share? I’ve got an appointment in September when they come to Chicago, and looking for inspiration. I’m thinking a dark winter weight jacket (navy or green tweed?) and a pair of grey trousers.
 

edinatlanta

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Looking for pictures of Anderson and Sheppard suits and jackets. Anyone willing to share? I’ve got an appointment in September when they come to Chicago, and looking for inspiration. I’m thinking a dark winter weight jacket (navy or green tweed?) and a pair of grey trousers.
Theres an entire a&s thread
 

dieworkwear

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Looking for pictures of Anderson and Sheppard suits and jackets. Anyone willing to share? I’ve got an appointment in September when they come to Chicago, and looking for inspiration. I’m thinking a dark winter weight jacket (navy or green tweed?) and a pair of grey trousers.
I went there and fwiw, I don't think their tailoring is very good. Personally think you get more authentic A&S cut through Steed. They are also more precise in their tailoring.

Some discussion here:

 

jimney

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I went there and fwiw, I don't think their tailoring is very good. Personally think you get more authentic A&S cut through Steed. They are also more precise in their tailoring.

Some discussion here:

I have actually browsed that thread quite a bit, and I’ve been trying to make a Steed appointment work for a couple years. Due to a combination of my traveling schedule (didn’t line up with the dates they were in town) and communication issues (they missed a lot of my emails, apparently because they were going to spam) it hasn’t worked out yet. I decided I’d go with whichever of Steed and A&S I could make an appointment with first.

I’m actually low key excited about A&S - it’s nice knowing they’ve been around for a while and taken care of their customers, and I know I’ll have long term support for my purchase. The fact they have a variety of exclusive fabrics also works in their favor (I know Steed has at least a couple).
 

ericgereghty

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I have actually browsed that thread quite a bit, and I’ve been trying to make a Steed appointment work for a couple years. Due to a combination of my traveling schedule (didn’t line up with the dates they were in town) and communication issues (they missed a lot of my emails, apparently because they were going to spam) it hasn’t worked out yet. I decided I’d go with whichever of Steed and A&S I could make an appointment with first.

I’m actually low key excited about A&S - it’s nice knowing they’ve been around for a while and taken care of their customers, and I know I’ll have long term support for my purchase. The fact they have a variety of exclusive fabrics also works in their favor (I know Steed has at least a couple).
You’re presumably not going to bail on this appointment (rightly so), but if you want to give Steed a shot, you might try making an Instagram and direct messaging them there. They’ve always been more than easily accessible from my experience…even for idiotic questions, of which I have many.
 

jimney

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You’re presumably not going to bail on this appointment (rightly so), but if you want to give Steed a shot, you might try making an Instagram and direct messaging them there. They’ve always been more than easily accessible from my experience…even for idiotic questions, of which I have many.
They did eventually reply and we figured out the issue, and they’ve been responsive since then - I just don’t know when they’ll be back in the US and so I elected to try A&S. I did consider doing a commission with each to compare, but that’s a lot of money to drop at once.
 

Encathol Epistemia

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I visited Mr. Di Pietro today to give him some trousers that I've gotten too... bootylicious for and some other minor things. I also spent more time ogling my covert coat, which is nearly finished, but he needs to adjust the length of the sleeves and finishing sewing the lining in. There's no hurry, of course, as I won't have a reason to wear it until November.

While I was there, he showed me a book: The Mongelli Modern Scientific Double Balance System of Designing, by G.A. Mongelli, which was the book that he used when he was first learning tailoring. I can't understand the diagrams, of course, but it's a fascinating tome. He tells me that it even has patterns for making coats for men on crutches.

Mongelli Method volume 1.jpg


'Modern' in this case meant the middle of the twentieth century, per Mr. Di Pietro's recording of its date of receipt, his address and his telephone number.

Mongelli Method Mr. Di Pietro's Name and Address.jpg


(Mr. Di Pietro was approximately sixteen at the time that he wrote that and living with his father in Lower Moyamensing, half a mile from where is present shop is)
 

FlyingHorker

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What coat would you all look for buying next?

I was thinking of either a camel polo coat, or a navy balmacaan, ala "Kaptain Sunshine Traveler's Coat."

I've reached the stages of "Have every piece of outerwear that I could possibly need" and also "I'm going to continue buying new coats".

My lifestyle is casual, I'm still a student, and if I do get a job within the next year, it seems like I can wear pretty much whatever I want.

I have the following:

-Rust mid-brown polo coat
-Mid grey peacoat
-Grey prince of wales check balmacaan
-Grey patchwork balmacaan
 

Despos

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I visited Mr. Di Pietro today to give him some trousers that I've gotten too... bootylicious for and some other minor things. I also spent more time ogling my covert coat, which is nearly finished, but he needs to adjust the length of the sleeves and finishing sewing the lining in. There's no hurry, of course, as I won't have a reason to wear it until November.

While I was there, he showed me a book: The Mongelli Modern Scientific Double Balance System of Designing, by G.A. Mongelli, which was the book that he used when he was first learning tailoring. I can't understand the diagrams, of course, but it's a fascinating tome. He tells me that it even has patterns for making coats for men on crutches.

View attachment 1643772

'Modern' in this case meant the middle of the twentieth century, per Mr. Di Pietro's recording of its date of receipt, his address and his telephone number.

View attachment 1643771

(Mr. Di Pietro was approximately sixteen at the time that he wrote that and living with his father in Lower Moyamensing, half a mile from where is present shop is)
@Encathol Epistemia
Would bet Mr. Di Pietro is happy to see you when you visit. It's great that you engage with him like you do.
Kudos E.E.
 

oscarthewild

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@induere_to
This book? Someone just gave me this a while ago. Never heard of him.View attachment 1639522
He is now very old. Some of the things he cut for me were very good. I have gained 20 lbs so they don't fit me anymore. Hoping to lose weight some day.

Was in a car earlier this week and the driver was talking to him. Would love to hear your opinion of his book.

Think he had another book too.

He made suits for a few movies probably in the 70s or 80s. Think he also made something for Roger Moore and also for Gregory Peck in Omen.
 

comrade

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Looking for pictures of Anderson and Sheppard suits and jackets. Anyone willing to share? I’ve got an appointment in September when they come to Chicago, and looking for inspiration. I’m thinking a dark winter weight jacket (navy or green tweed?) and a pair of grey trousers.

Not a customer of A & S or Steed for that matter. But I love this A& S jacket:

 

dieworkwear

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Not a customer of A & S or Steed for that matter. But I love this A& S jacket:

Jacket was made in 1985, which means it was likely cut by Dennis Halberry (he retired in 1993 and passed away in 2015).

That's the thing when looking at A&S: you have to look at the garments from the perspective of who cut the jacket, not the house label.
 

comrade

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So, the same would hold true for this Caraceni masterpiece, also from the mid- 80s.
It certainly puts the neophyte bespoke client in a bind, unless there are finished examples
of the different cutter's work to examine.


as14.jpg caraceni from hand sewn canvas.jpg
 

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