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Encathol Epistemia

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I visited Mr. Di Pietro today for, among other things, a fitting of my covert coat. The coat fit well and now that he's confident of the length, all that remains is to add the four lines of stitching around the skirt. The stitching has already been applied to the sleeves and echoed throughout the coat.

Covert Coat - Nearly Finished.JPG


The tailor seems pretty pleased with his work and I'm inclined to agree. The only shame is that it will be quite a few months until I have any occasion to wear it.

Incidentally, the wife of a colleague who has, perhaps under my hypnotic influence, had Mr. Di Pietro make him a suit has also saw fit to have him make a coat for her. She came interested in it and was very taken with a dark blue cashmere and mink blend cloth that Mr. Di Pietro had just enough of to make what she wanted. He had laid the fabric out for cutting and was preparing it fur cutting when I visited.

Colleague's Wife's Pattern Traced on Blue Cashmere-Mink Cloth.JPG
 

konstantis

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Konstanti I would suggest you to wait until winter-time (unless you are planning to visit Australia!) and live with the garment. Only then, you would know if the buttons need to be changed.

Perhaps it's their grey tone that and not their darkness that make the present buttons in the need of further thought. That said, with the garment alongside, I would check if red-brown horn buttons (the lining company calls them "Russet"), and especially the darker ones, offer a better aesthetic result; it is the red - instead of grey - tone in the mix that could make all the difference!

Best,

Dimitris
Thank you Dimitri.
 

UrbanComposition

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Here’s the forward fitting I had today with Salvo. Being that this is the…10th & 11th?…suit from them we felt comfortable skipping the first fitting. Small adjustments are all that is needed. Might opt for machine buttonholes just to save time (I leave for Florence tomorrow). More pics in a bit.

0F4211A4-DF4E-4A7F-86A7-DA73E5DCA265.jpeg


BCD4E84F-1CE7-40D6-A92A-AF6F3FECC138.jpeg
 

classicalthunde

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Here’s the forward fitting I had today with Salvo. Being that this is the…10th & 11th?…suit from them we felt comfortable skipping the first fitting. Small adjustments are all that is needed. Might opt for machine buttonholes just to save time (I leave for Florence tomorrow). More pics in a bit.

View attachment 1631598

View attachment 1631599
are you doing con rollino shoulders with these, or is that just a quick baste stitching of the shoulders during one of the try on stages?
 

UrbanComposition

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^ currently they are just basted on. Going to do a Sicilian specialty they locally call “manica mappina” whereby the fabric is turned back toward the sleeve, which extends the shoulder line without moving the shoulder seam. Extending the shoulder seam has the same effect but it sometimes droops over time.
 

acapaca

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Looks great! A question about the vents, since one shows up so well in the first photo. Do you always leave that entirely up to the tailor, or do you have any specific preferences you convey? I've read some comments here on the forum where people mention ten-inch vents, which seems longer than anything I have in RTW. Do you also keep a consistent preference for jacket length, or does that vary as well?
 

UrbanComposition

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Looks great! A question about the vents, since one shows up so well in the first photo. Do you always leave that entirely up to the tailor, or do you have any specific preferences you convey? I've read some comments here on the forum where people mention ten-inch vents, which seems longer than anything I have in RTW. Do you also keep a consistent preference for jacket length, or does that vary as well?
My experience is fairly limited, but I’d say most places that offer bespoke (and MTM) have longer vents than RTW. That said, the ones I have used vary from one maker to another, although they seem to hover around 10 inches. Personally it’s a detail I leave up to them, but I’m almost positive they wouldn’t care if you preferred an inch longer or shorter.
 

classicalthunde

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^ currently they are just basted on. Going to do a Sicilian specialty they locally call “manica mappina” whereby the fabric is turned back toward the sleeve, which extends the shoulder line without moving the shoulder seam. Extending the shoulder seam has the same effect but it sometimes droops over time.
is this what you have on your other I Sarti suits? like the summer tweed and grey donegal?
 

jaypee

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Here’s the forward fitting I had today with Salvo. Being that this is the…10th & 11th?…suit from them we felt comfortable skipping the first fitting. Small adjustments are all that is needed. Might opt for machine buttonholes just to save time (I leave for Florence tomorrow). More pics in a bit.

View attachment 1631598

View attachment 1631599
Looks nice!

Did you end up rescheduling the NYC visit yet?
 

UrbanComposition

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is this what you have on your other I Sarti suits? like the summer tweed and grey donegal?
Yes.
Looks nice!

Did you end up rescheduling the NYC visit yet?
Nothing can be scheduled ATM since EU/UK citizens aren’t yet allowed in the US, vaccinated/tested notwithstanding.
 

bldngwrdrb

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budget intermission for you high rollers.

locals alterations tailor offered to make trousers for 120euro(price when I brought fabric)

thought i would give him a try

heavier linen

need to fix leg length difference that shows in the break

perhaps pleats are to body centered giving bit of an s-shape over thighs and need to be more leg centered

maybe slightly to much fabric on parts of the behind and just under it

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