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classicalthunde

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Man, I’m tellin ya. Wish he could come sooner but it’s easier for me to go there than him to come here at the moment. Italy (and most of the EU) is still blocked from entering.
Luckily the unfunded liabilities I have earmarked for I Sarti are S/S fabrics and I'm still WFH until the fall...so as long as I can get them made up for next spring I'll be a happy camper.

Have a Cacciopoli navy hopsack in hand, and Salvo has ordered a length of this LP wool-silk-linen mix that I'm in love with...looking to go full bore Italian with these: soft canvas, spalla camicia, 3r2, patch pockets, barachetta, etc.
 

UrbanComposition

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I'd be curious to hear how displacing that side seam affects the fit and drape, if at all. Does it only work for certain body types? Does the pattern have to be changed in other ways, besides the fact that the seam isn't there?
Just asked Ryan, and he said it doesn't affect fit/drape at all. The only thing that changes is the seam placement (insofar as the seam is moved), but the overall pattern shape is the same.
 

dieworkwear

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Elch

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The pants look awesome. I especially like how the pleat stays closed. Is that a consequence of their depth?

I often see pleats being pulled open which seems to commonly occur on reverse pleats. Are those not deep enough or is that a general "feature" of reverse ones?
 

UrbanComposition

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The pants look awesome. I especially like how the pleat stays closed. Is that a consequence of their depth?

I often see pleats being pulled open which seems to commonly occur on reverse pleats. Are those not deep enough or is that a general "feature" of reverse ones?
Both pleat depth and roominess. In addition to 1.5” pleats (so 3” total) fabric often needs to be “pushed” forward from the side seam toward your thighs, depending on one’s build.
 

Egdon Heath

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The pants look awesome. I especially like how the pleat stays closed. Is that a consequence of their depth?
Echoing the compliments.
Most pleats begin immediately below the waist line. His are sewn shut for about two inches. This helps the flatness.

I imagine the prominent side adjusters are primarily for looks. And they do look good. Adjusters cinch the fabric at the point they're attached. To a max of about an inch and a half each. Unless you expect the waistline to go up and down regularly, you can skip the adjuster and sew the cinch in. By hand, about five to ten minutes each. DIY, hey it's a cinch.
 

UrbanComposition

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Echoing the compliments.
Most pleats begin immediately below the waist line. His are sewn shut for about two inches. This helps the flatness.

I imagine the prominent side adjusters are primarily for looks. And they do look good. Adjusters cinch the fabric at the point they're attached. To a max of about an inch and a half each. Unless you expect the waistline to go up and down regularly, you can skip the adjuster and sew the cinch in. By hand, about five to ten minutes each. DIY, hey it's a cinch.
Since you mentioned it, my paunch expands and contracts quite a bit throughout the day. Let’s just say after the second cup of coffee, I cinch the pull tabs.
 

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