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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    NYC / HK / London
    

    Yes it is AC and they do it in-house. I like the quality of the work for the price point. I work on SR and still get clothing made in Japan and Italy. My AC made garments are in my rotation and will continue to be.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  2. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Here's some pics from my forward fitting today. You will notice some substantial improvements from last week's snaps.

    [​IMG]

    ^ Jacket has been lengthened slightly, which has thrown the quarters off. They will be a little more open than this.

    What I really like is they way they have cut the trousers to hide my bow legs!

    [​IMG]

    ^ Trousers will be lengthened by 5mm.

    [​IMG]

    Sleeve pitch and trouser pooling behind knees have both been fixed.

    [​IMG]

    Both I and the master tailor were happy with this. The suit will now be finished, and sent to me in about one month, at which point I will post further pics and also reveal the identity of the tailor. I am not aware that any other SF member has ever used them.

    Comments welcome as always. It's not too late to make changes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2016
    10 people like this.
  3. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Really like the shoulders!
     
  4. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Thanks. They will be in the "Spalla camicia" style.
     
  5. S K M

    S K M Senior member

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    Dec 11, 2012
    Overall very nice, but I do find the buttoning point to be very high. It is something I have been struggling with myself, but have now needed up having it half an inch or so above my belly button. But of course it's also a question of the proportions of your body (long legs/short upper body etc.).
     
  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    If that's a reference to my project, look at the first set of pics from a few pages ago (higher up on the same page). The "apparent" buttoning point in the second set of photos is just where he pinned it today.
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2016
  7. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    You look so happy.
     
    4 people like this.
  8. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    The trousers really do look great, and the jacket is much cleaner. It seems to me like there was more room in the chest in the initial photos, resulting in a bit of drape, which I thought suited you well. I also think a slightly lower buttoning point for the final would be good. It's coming together nicely!
     
  9. grade

    grade Well-Known Member

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    Blue Line

    Yeah, I agree with this. There was a little more of an hour glass effect in the first set of photos which I quite liked. Maybe a bit of waist suppression could achieve a similar look? As it stands now, the jacket looks a touch boxy to me.
     
  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Here's a side-by-side with some cropping to match the two shots up better:

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    You can see from this that the jacket was pinned higher than its "true" buttoning point in the second shot.

    I do agree though, that some more adjustment would give the jacket a better shape. I've contacted the tailor about this. Closing at the "true" buttoning point (as in the first photo), reshaping the quarters, and maybe a tiny bit of extra waist suppression, should hopefully remove the boxiness apparent in the second photo.

    As for my deadpan expression, well - this is a robopose after all!
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2016
    6 people like this.
  11. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Sweden
    Hi guys, here are some pics from the Sartoria Corcos Trunk Show in Stockholm last weekend.

    I have opted for a slightly loser and longer fit than what Corcos normaly makes for my last commissions. I think it created a better balance on my body type.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Coat for the wife (Kotaro San makes one or two styles of women's coats and also trousers)
    [​IMG]

    Coat for myself as well.
    [​IMG]

    Lighting was a bit poor, sorry guys. Pictures by @gusvs
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016
    19 people like this.
  12. greger

    greger Senior member

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    WA
    [​IMG]

    That is a nice flair.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Looks super-clean, Patrik. What is the cloth? Some kind of donegal?
     
  14. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    It's a normal tweed, but not a Donegal. I'd love to be one of those guys who knows exactly the fabric and mill and how many threads were used per square centimeter. But I'm not. I honestly don't get all worked up over the exact details of cloth, if I like the look and the feel of it I go for it. :D

    Green seems to be very popular these days. What's behind this, waddaya guys think?
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Thx Greger.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2016
  16. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I can't say exactly why green is becoming a hot colour, but it seems that some menswear bloggers have predicted it as being such.

    Can't provide any links to prove this. I just remember reading it somewhere.

    I've also read that the skinny trouser/skinny tie/skinny lapel/short jacket length trend has finally had its day - a good ten years after Thom Browne's 2006 collection hit the catwalk.

    But, like mullets and 3/4 cargo pants and overlong tatty jean hems, it will probably take another five years or so to fade away.
     
  17. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Looks great, good decision on the "new" fit, I think.


    Is it a herringbone or plain? I think the green jacket can be explained by that it is a great color, but has not a very "city" connotation. Now, as people dress more and more casually, this has become a real alternative to blue jackets etc., a few good examples were posted; voila.
     
  18. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jun 2, 2015
    Location:
    Stockholm
    Speaking of green. I received my green double-breasted suit from Tailorable and it turned out really great, I just snapped a picture while visiting Kotaro for a fitting, therefore its not the best picture:

    Details: No name mill, vintage dark green flannel, ventless, no backpockets on the trousers, double pleats with 5 cm cuffs.

    [​IMG]

    Sneaking in a very dark pic from Kotaros work:

    [​IMG]
     
    9 people like this.
  19. Braddock

    Braddock Senior member

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    May 1, 2012
    Location:
    Florence
    Second fitting at B&Tailor.

    [​IMG]
     
    8 people like this.
  20. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    That db looks really nice, will have to steal next time I'm in Stockholm. But what's up with the pocket placement? Looks really high. And that fitting with Kotaro is a navy... something?
     

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