- Jan 18, 2020
- Reaction score
That makes sense of course - I was reacting to your previous comment on "over the hip" positioning.Not aware of what the rules are or if there are rules. Spent time with two tailors recently talking about pattern drafting. Each of us had a different method of determining the lower pockets and the breast pocket placement.
The discussion I was having with my tailor was around this precisely - how his pattern approach places the pockets higher and further away from the center, whereas my Italian jackets have them lower and closer to the center. I much prefer the latter, as I like standing or walking with my hands in my pockets, and this positioning is much more natural and comfortable. With my English jackets, I feel my hands are a bit too high, and my elbows pushed further back in a less natural and more uncomfortable position.
Both Antonio Panico as well as Gigi Dalcuore (RIP) still follow this pocket placement - at least in the jackets they made for me. I can try to post pictures. Crimi (from Palermo) less so, the placement is somewhere in between the English and the Neapolitan.These days I don't see as many Italian tailors place them as low as they used to. Never liked that or high gorges.