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stuffedsuperdud

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@backtaro I like to get the hacking pockets, with a slight angle, as I think it's a subtle little touch that makes the jacket a bit more rakish for folks in the know, while business colleagues won't even notice. It also makes the pockets easier to reach into. The ticket pocket I never really liked as it throws off the jacket's symmetry, plus can mess up the proportions of the jacket if the tailor puts it too high or too low, but that's just my preference. Don't get the contrast buttonholes; it's a gaudy little obscenity that takes away from the elegant minimalism of a well-fitting blue suit. My physique, or width at least, seems similar to the #s you posted (but in your profile it says you wear a 40? I wear a 44-46). If we are indeed similar, then I used to get 3.5" lapels but recently got one with 4" and found it looks more proportional to my eye.

Glad to hear your experience with VN tailoring, which have improved a lot in term of quality and style for the last decade. I hope my home country could one day stop being remarked as place to consign fast, cheap, fused, inferior quality suit.
My tailor here in Boston is an old school guy from Saigon who trained the classic way, apprenticing when he was 12 to a Parisian-trained master and later travelling the country mastering all the different aspects of production, working everywhere from little bespoke shops to large manufacturing facilities run by guys who trained in high end RTW factories like Brioni's. Altogether he was a student for about 15 years before opening his own shop. I was apprehensive at first, as he sucks at marketing and at first glance you would not guess his incredible skill set, but all of my initial nervousness went away after he altered the first suit I showed him, and now I take great joy in wearing the beautiful (and very fairly priced) clothes he has made me over the past few years; the quality of his work is right up there with that of any of the IG-famous tailors and cutters we ogle all day.

NB: He's pretty modest too. Looking at the buttonholes on an RLPL jacket, he goes, "Huh! These all by hand!" Takes a closer look and goes, "Augh! [gestures at a bespoke jacket he made] This I make. All by hand. But theirs better. They do better than me! I so stupid hahahaha." You gotta love this guy.

On quality of work in VN, he argued that the problem until relatively recently wasn't that the craftsmen can't make nice things but that even the country's richer folks couldn't afford their best efforts, so the result was something they knew wasn't their best work. Looks like the demand for the good stuff is rising now though which I hope will be good for the local tailors to showcase their abilities.
 
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Wild Strawberry Rabbit

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Do you cover your face to hide your identity or to emphasize the suit? If it's the former, I don't think it really matters since you have a link to your instagram.
I guess it’s easier for me to make my IG account private if I ever wish to, than to remove all the photos from the forum, hence keeping face covered on the forum, just in case :)
 

krakatoa

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dont know if this belongs here, but came across a nice video on ciccio
I note that the video was filmed before COVID-19, and hope that he, and his sartoria, are surviving as best they can. I'm an existing customer and sent him a message late last year but never received a reply (which is unusual for Ueki san).
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
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I note that the video was filmed before COVID-19, and hope that he, and his sartoria, are surviving as best they can. I'm an existing customer and sent him a message late last year but never received a reply (which is unusual for Ueki san).
🙁

I've touched base with some tailors and the stories are all bad. Very hard time for people in this trade. I don't know Ueki, but I hope he's OK.
 

Despos

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Practice tying the belt until it’s easy.
Think this would look more dynamic and have more visual impact when belted.
Take another pic belted
 

IJReilly

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I always preferred tying the belt in the back, in order to get a little shape. Then you can just let it stay there and never touch it again.
 

FlyingHorker

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Practice tying the belt until it’s easy.
Think this would look more dynamic and have more visual impact when belted.
Take another pic belted
Woops, I should elaborate.

It's a pain due to the silhouette it eventually creates. These are old pictures pre-alteration.

I had to smooth out the fabric on the front, creating the pleats on the back. Otherwise in any normal movement the pleats shift to the front by the belt, it looks messy.

This is a new set of pictures showing the sloppy look.
I always preferred tying the belt in the back, in order to get a little shape. Then you can just let it stay there and never touch it again.
Yeah I was thinking of giving this a try. Will give it a shot next winter and see how it feels.
 

corpseposeur

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I have two bespoke projects, my first ones, in limbo due to COVID.

I am in New York. My tailors are in London and a global pandemic has delayed these. After numerous last-minute suit purchases for weddings and "grown-up" occasions, and some MTM disasters from local NYC brands, I binged Permanent Style for a month and made two orders with two tailors on their trips to NYC.

Suit #1 is a two-piece suit cut by the pleasant Terry Haste of Kent & Haste (or Kent, Haste & Lachter) in a navy wool twill from Huddersfield Fine Worsted.
Single-breasted, single button, with slanted pockets. Measured by Terry in December 2019.
The idea was that this would be my one suit that I would wear to whatever occasion.

Shortly after this, my brother-in-law was planning to get married in New York in June 2020 and I found myself needing a good suit faster than what K&H could do and in a fabric that I could wear in the humid and miserable NYC summer. This lead to...

Suit #2, a two-piece suit from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury measured by Suresh and Bob in NYC on their trip in a 10oz. charcoal Fox Air hi-twist fabric with a subtle windowpane. Single-button, I think I got slanted pockets--but as this was ordered in January 2020, I am not entirely sure.

Anyway, it's March 2021 and I haven't been able to do a basted fitting yet for either due to the ongoing plague. Ironically, my brother-in-law's wedding has been postponed indefinitely and I have made plans to get married myself in May 2020. I'd love to get my KHL navy before then, but who knows where things will fall.

I'd love to hear if anyone here has expereinces with these two houses and what I may be able to expect for fittings. Any questions I should ask? Anything to look out for? I went with KHL and W&S mostly because of Simon Crompton's pieces, but would love to hear other thoughts.
 

brax

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I have two bespoke projects, my first ones, in limbo due to COVID.

I am in New York. My tailors are in London and a global pandemic has delayed these. After numerous last-minute suit purchases for weddings and "grown-up" occasions, and some MTM disasters from local NYC brands, I binged Permanent Style for a month and made two orders with two tailors on their trips to NYC.

Suit #1 is a two-piece suit cut by the pleasant Terry Haste of Kent & Haste (or Kent, Haste & Lachter) in a navy wool twill from Huddersfield Fine Worsted.
Single-breasted, single button, with slanted pockets. Measured by Terry in December 2019.
The idea was that this would be my one suit that I would wear to whatever occasion.

Shortly after this, my brother-in-law was planning to get married in New York in June 2020 and I found myself needing a good suit faster than what K&H could do and in a fabric that I could wear in the humid and miserable NYC summer. This lead to...

Suit #2, a two-piece suit from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury measured by Suresh and Bob in NYC on their trip in a 10oz. charcoal Fox Air hi-twist fabric with a subtle windowpane. Single-button, I think I got slanted pockets--but as this was ordered in January 2020, I am not entirely sure.

Anyway, it's March 2021 and I haven't been able to do a basted fitting yet for either due to the ongoing plague. Ironically, my brother-in-law's wedding has been postponed indefinitely and I have made plans to get married myself in May 2020. I'd love to get my KHL navy before then, but who knows where things will fall.

I'd love to hear if anyone here has expereinces with these two houses and what I may be able to expect for fittings. Any questions I should ask? Anything to look out for? I went with KHL and W&S mostly because of Simon Crompton's pieces, but would love to hear other thoughts.
Good luck on your commissions. I am not familiar with either tailoring house.

As others have mentioned in different contexts, I’d skip the hacking pockets. They are certainly too informal for your blue suit. Regardless, good luck.
 

corpseposeur

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Good luck on your commissions. I am not familiar with either tailoring house.

As others have mentioned in different contexts, I’d skip the hacking pockets. They are certainly too informal for your blue suit. Regardless, good luck.
I think I agree with you on the pockets. At the time, I wanted a very British, structured cut and hacking pockets were a bit of an affect. I also think Kent, Haste and Lachter’s house style lends itself well to slanted pockets.

I know that KHL have done the basted garment already. If they haven’t done up the pockets I’ll ask if I can switch to straight or jetted pockets. If not, I’ll live with it. As I live in the United States. I don’t think 99% of my peers will either notice or think it less formal.
 

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