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coolpapa

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That is a beautiful fabric. I have a length, the first I ever purchased. Still haven't had it made into a jacket and probably won't given that I've had jackets made from similar fabrics. I may use it to recover an ottoman for my office.
 

backtaro

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With limited experience in jacket bespoke, I am consigning a local tailor a Worsted Wool SB dark navy suit, aiming to be used in the scenario of business-oriented environment (finance). I sort of made my choice of details already but would like to have input from you guys, the veteran, in this matter:

- Fabric weight is 230mg (approx. 8oz), half lining at the back : My location is Southeast Asia and my body tend to sweat a lot so I opted for this combination. Just wondering if a business suit with that light of weight and minimal lining is appropriate? Would it look like a sack at the end of the working day?

- Spalla Camicia vs Con Rollino shoulder: I am leaning toward Con Rollino shoulder given the formality of this suit. Just wondering if Spalla Camicia is suitable for a business suit? Since this tailor have been making a lot more suit with Spalla Camicia rather than Con Rollino, I believe he would do a better job in the former shoulder. Meanwhile, there will be no padding on the shoulder FYI.

- Lapel width: I am much interested with Liverano or Ring Jacket lapel width but not sure if that would fit my wide frame? (approx 110 cm around chest, 50 cm across shoulder, 92 cm around waist)

- Milanese lapel button hole: This is a free addon from the tailor, I have not decided on the color yet and would love to have your suggestion. The color should not right in the face from the first glance but if someone looking at my suit for a bit, they could see this is not a usual button hole.

Other detail:
- Full canvas at the front
- 3 roll 2 button closure
- Slanted flap pocket with an added ticket pocket
- Barchetta Pocket

Appreciate your helpful feedback.

Cheers,
 

ValidusLA

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Things I would generally not do on a "business suit":
hacking pockets
ticket pockets
Off color Lapel button hole (or on any suit in this case)

Regarding Lapel width - if you are wide avoid a slender Lapel. I have 19.75in (about 50cm) shoulder measurement and my tailor puts on a 3.25in notch.
 

samtalkstyle

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With limited experience in jacket bespoke, I am consigning a local tailor a Worsted Wool SB dark navy suit, aiming to be used in the scenario of business-oriented environment (finance). I sort of made my choice of details already but would like to have input from you guys, the veteran, in this matter:

- Fabric weight is 230mg (approx. 8oz), half lining at the back : My location is Southeast Asia and my body tend to sweat a lot so I opted for this combination. Just wondering if a business suit with that light of weight and minimal lining is appropriate? Would it look like a sack at the end of the working day?

- Spalla Camicia vs Con Rollino shoulder: I am leaning toward Con Rollino shoulder given the formality of this suit. Just wondering if Spalla Camicia is suitable for a business suit? Since this tailor have been making a lot more suit with Spalla Camicia rather than Con Rollino, I believe he would do a better job in the former shoulder. Meanwhile, there will be no padding on the shoulder FYI.

- Lapel width: I am much interested with Liverano or Ring Jacket lapel width but not sure if that would fit my wide frame? (approx 110 cm around chest, 50 cm across shoulder, 92 cm around waist)

- Milanese lapel button hole: This is a free addon from the tailor, I have not decided on the color yet and would love to have your suggestion. The color should not right in the face from the first glance but if someone looking at my suit for a bit, they could see this is not a usual button hole.

Other detail:
- Full canvas at the front
- 3 roll 2 button closure
- Slanted flap pocket with an added ticket pocket
- Barchetta Pocket

Appreciate your helpful feedback.

Cheers,
114cm chest here with similar shoulder measurement, i happily wear lapel between 9cm-13cm depending on details.
Avoid slanted pocket, it'll make your hips look even wider.
 

The Chai

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Go fully lined. Especially in south east Asia and if you sweat alot. I know its counter intuitive but removing the lining does not do that much in such humid weather. There are better ways to counter that (e.g. linen shirts, open weave cotton, undershirts for swear absortion). The sweat will make your jacket stick to your back. It will make it harder to take off and put on your jacket which you'll be doing alot. Unless you're going to be replacing your wardrobe once every three years you're gonna want it to last. Lack of lining plus sweat stains plus friction will wear it out super fast. Especially if you have a light weight fabric. On that note since its your first commission I would not go that light weight of a suit unless its mohair. Even then I advise against it. You start going that weight when you have like 5 plus suits and have a constant rotation. Get a fresco or tropical weave at 280 plus grams. As for most of the other details most south east asian clientele I've dealt with dgaf. They wouldn't really notice the difference between spalla camicia etc. Nor would that care. However again it's your first suit. Stick to notch lapel ropes shoulder and two straight flapped pockets. Leave the patch, tickets, lightweight or fancy fabrics and other add ons till you have some basic stuff in rotation. Get bamberg lining. And please no colored lapel buttonholes. Get the thread to match. People will notice the difference... 😅 personally I think a milanese buttonhole defeats the purpose of a business suit. You dont really want to stand out. You kinda want to be the gray man and blend in but that's just me...wearing a suit in that region will already make you stick out like a sore thumb.
 

The Chai

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P.s. in that region for almost any type of business dealings you'd probably spend 25% of your time in a t shirt 25% in a polo or casual shirt 24 % in a dress shirt and 1% will require an actual suit
 

acapaca

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While we're on the topic of SEA, are there any strong tailor recommendations from the forum? I travel throughout the region (or at least I once did! and plan to again) and would love to take advantage of any hidden gems.
 

The Chai

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While we're on the topic of SEA, are there any strong tailor recommendations from the forum? I travel throughout the region (or at least I once did! and plan to again) and would love to take advantage of any hidden gems.
Jeremy tok in kl seems good not that I've used him. He has a blog called the "the kerbau" where he posts his stuff and documents his process
 

backtaro

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Go fully lined. Especially in south east Asia and if you sweat alot. I know its counter intuitive but removing the lining does not do that much in such humid weather. There are better ways to counter that (e.g. linen shirts, open weave cotton, undershirts for swear absortion). The sweat will make your jacket stick to your back. It will make it harder to take off and put on your jacket which you'll be doing alot. Unless you're going to be replacing your wardrobe once every three years you're gonna want it to last. Lack of lining plus sweat stains plus friction will wear it out super fast. Especially if you have a light weight fabric. On that note since its your first commission I would not go that light weight of a suit unless its mohair. Even then I advise against it. You start going that weight when you have like 5 plus suits and have a constant rotation. Get a fresco or tropical weave at 280 plus grams. As for most of the other details most south east asian clientele I've dealt with dgaf. They wouldn't really notice the difference between spalla camicia etc. Nor would that care. However again it's your first suit. Stick to notch lapel ropes shoulder and two straight flapped pockets. Leave the patch, tickets, lightweight or fancy fabrics and other add ons till you have some basic stuff in rotation. Get bamberg lining. And please no colored lapel buttonholes. Get the thread to match. People will notice the difference... 😅 personally I think a milanese buttonhole defeats the purpose of a business suit. You dont really want to stand out. You kinda want to be the gray man and blend in but that's just me...wearing a suit in that region will already make you stick out like a sore thumb.
Thanks a lot for your insight! Going fully lined was also recommended by my tailor in order to avoid a crumple back later in the day. Meanwhile, I am locating in Northern VN which has a cold winter (sub 10 Celcius) so there is room for warmer jacket but the summer is definitely a mess (up to 40 Celsius). However, I will definitely take your advise and get it fully lined. Currently, I already have a good amount of RTW suit, jacket (around 15 items) which would help to ease the stress on this consigning suit.
 

backtaro

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While we're on the topic of SEA, are there any strong tailor recommendations from the forum? I travel throughout the region (or at least I once did! and plan to again) and would love to take advantage of any hidden gems.
There are some good tailors here in Vietnam (Hanoi & HCMC afaik) but due to the small scale, fabric selection is not too excellent but still acceptable. Price is very good tho. The sartorial community is growing quickly that push the demand for good quality tailoring lately. Let me know if you are in the area so I could gather a list for you.
 

acapaca

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There are some good tailors here in Vietnam (Hanoi & HCMC afaik) but due to the small scale, fabric selection is not too excellent but still acceptable. Price is very good tho. The sartorial community is growing quickly that push the demand for good quality tailoring lately. Let me know if you are in the area so I could gather a list for you.
I'm actually in Hanoi as well! I've been in Vietnam for a few months, after having been based in Malaysia the past several years. (I actually did try Jeremy Tok there, but for shirts. The experience was...regrettable.)

Here in Vietnam so far I have tried Pham Tailor in Saigon, and Armoury and Ngo Minh in Hanoi. Each of the three has done some things well and some things not so well. I'm definitely interested in hearing other recommendations. For Hanoi, I hear Pham Brothers has a strong reputation. I'd also like to find out more about Vietnam Bespoke Shop.

And yes, I'm seeing what you mean about the fabric limitations. I've been thinking about trying to source my own, with a tailor that doesn't mind that.

Thanks for the help!
 

MontyLo

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54FDEB39-7838-475D-9200-B1B196CB0490.jpeg


These are en route and should round out my belt collection for a while. Rory Nichols bespoke belts in Horween Russian hatchgrain bull rush and deep purple. I opted for a slightly more geometric buckle on these to go in rotation with my other black and dark brown belts for tailoring, as opposed to a more rounded ones I really like for my casual belts and lighter browns.
 

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