Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,785
    Likes Received:
    3,012
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    



    NSM made my tweed trousers unlined. Now THAT was itchy. No problem, they are adding lining. I guess they don't have much experience with tweed trousers in Napoli. :D
     


  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Likes Received:
    1,106
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    Neapolitan fantasy.
     


  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,406
    Likes Received:
    4,940
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    Looking to have my first bespoke sportcoat made. I am overwhelmed. Thinking a rust barley corn. Or a rusty brown semi-solid. Although navy is a solid first choice, I have enough navy SCs, and my complexion is better with rusts / Browns.

    Meeting with Chris next Monday, decisions decisions!

    Small note, this will be first sportcoat, second commission :).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015


  4. Dachshund

    Dachshund Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Likes Received:
    420
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Location:
    At large
    +1 - am also considering the jump to bespoke. I love that jacket from NSM a few posts back. From what I see online they seem very reasonably priced and they visit London. Anyone care to share any feedback on them?
     


  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,794
    Likes Received:
    1,506
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    

    Brown Herringbone is the way to go.
     


  6. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    [​IMG]

    Have yet to do the buttonholes on this.

    [​IMG]

    Rather Star Wars looking I think.
     


  7. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,785
    Likes Received:
    3,012
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    @Newcomer Just a friendly advice, if you are about to commission your first bespoke suit, go for something really basic like a navy jacket. I learned the hard way. The only stuff I wear from my early commissions are the basic items. Maybe you are a more sensible guy than I am though, maybe you don't need that advice. :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015


  8. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,406
    Likes Received:
    4,940
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    

    Leaves - I think what you said has a lot of merit. I definitely want a solid or a semi solid, a la herringbone, barley corn, hopsack, or even a donegal. I think I should maybe rethink whether or not I should stick to something like a navy jacket (I wear my navy jackets more than anything else in my closet). With my coloring, I kind of like the idea of a dark, rusty color (I'll provide an example when I get the chance), but I do worry a little bit about versatility. I normally wear grey odd trousers, whites, light Browns, etc., so as long as it works with those I will be happy.

    I will exercise some restraint though, no lavender with white over checks or anything crazy :)
     


  9. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Messages:
    7,517
    Likes Received:
    1,574
    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2007
    I think a rusty brown herringbone is a great idea for your second thing from CD. I have three herringbone SCs and wear them often: green, tan, and charcoal. W. Bill x2 and Breanish, both of which I recommend, the former being tighter woven, heavier, and thus warmer. If I lived somewhere colder, I'd be tempted to get more of the W. Bills, not bec. I don't like the Breanish, but bec. the WBs come in so many beautiful colors.

    The green is my favorite, in part because it's so versatile. Goes well w/ tan or grey pants, whereas I usually only wear the tan jacket w/ grey pants and the charcoal w/ tan pants. (By grey pants I mean light, medium or dark, and by tan pants I mean khaki or taupe through stone.) You might put swatches of various pant material next to the tweed swatches to see what pairs well. All three of mine go well w/ blue jeans too, which can be helpful imo.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015


  10. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,107
    Likes Received:
    768
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    Aren't you from Texas or somewhere else from the South? If so, you should consider linen or an open weave cloth. If you were looking for a suit, I'd recommend mohair - scratchy but performs unbelievably well in high humidity.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015


  11. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,406
    Likes Received:
    4,940
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    I do live in the South -- southern Louisiana, to be specific. In all honesty, although I have nothing against linen -- I love my linen pants and jackets -- I just can't justify this kind of money on linen. Not sure why, exactly, but linen just doesn't feel like it has the lasting power.

    I was talking about this with @DLJr, but I have been thinking about "faux-tweed" or something lighter but with autumnal / fall colors. We discussed some options that I have noted When it is hot in the summer any jacket is miserable to wear. I avoid wearing even linen unless I have to. And anywho, most of my day is spend indoors in AC, so whatever need I have for hot weather garb is mitigated by the fact that I am indoors 99% of the day (to my chagrin).

    I have thought about a fresco suit, maybe AF blue, but at least for me, the jury is still out on fresco. An open weave jacket or a mohair suit is something I can get behind.
     


  12. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,333
    Likes Received:
    1,812
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    Yeah, get Worsted Alsport, they have some good solid herringbones that will you do right.
     


  13. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
    3,256
    Likes Received:
    1,498
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    Mohair!! So much sex appeal in that cloth.
     


  14. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

    Messages:
    5,406
    Likes Received:
    4,940
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2009
    I have given thought to a navy mohair suit.
     


  15. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

    Messages:
    3,256
    Likes Received:
    1,498
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    I love the texture, and its resiliency is something else. I have a Shibumi navy tie in a 70-30 W/M split, and there are absolutely no wrinkles to speak at normal points of stress.

    As someone who ties a fairly tight knot, I found that quite awesome.

    Edit: not sure where you'd be looking, but Smith Woolens seems to have some snazzy options.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2015


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by