Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Bespoke DJP]

I believe there are two different versions of that cloth -- one pale and the other yellow.

The yellow one:

View attachment 1503517


The pale one:

View attachment 1503518

Interesting!

Could it be attributed to lighting conditions?

 

[dieworkwear]

Interesting!

Could it be attributed to lighting conditions?

I don't know about Lovat, but the pattern traditionally comes in two colors. P&H Hartwist 32136 is a true Russell check. It's a little lighter/ more beige than 32137, which is darker/ more golden. I find the 32137 version easier to wear, but if you prefer the lighter color, Alsport also has something similar in 2403.

My Russell check tweed sport coat from Steed:

The P&H Hartwist bunch. These two fabrics are next to each other.

I bought my coat because of this photo of George Frazier, who wrote The Art of Wearing Clothes and various jazz essays

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Thank you Dimitris. I think this is a beautiful coat.

Pretty heavy for my taste, still, I totally agree with you!

Just to intrigue your final decision!!!

Best,

Dimitris

 

[DavidLane]

In the film "Men of the Cloth" Joseph Centofanti fits a customer for a Bal coat in Russel Plaid. I remember the jacket specifically thinking it would be a bit too bold, but it looked great in the film. I tried (quickly) to find a clip, but I couldn't.

-DL

 

[FlyingHorker]

he got a coat from marling&evans offering but i don't like the hand of it. i had some sample and was too 'flat' for my taste.

the fox cloth looks to have a somewhat luxe-finish, is this right? looked pretty on the polocoat that's linked on pinterest.
but i need something i can wear with some streetwear stuff thus looking for something a bit more unrefined
think of the NBxALD add.

That's correct. I went with M&E and not Magee. Interesting to see our different interpretations. I took the 'flat' hand as "Wow, this is softer for such a heavy tweed!" It worked for me due to the very bold pattern. M&E used to be under Huddersfield I think and they described the cloth as shetland wool.

I have the light grey Magee swatch you're looking at. Honestly I don't think the quality on any of these type of tweeds is worth being concerned about, they should all be decent. I also found it softer, stretchy and spongey.

I was going to go with that exact swatch before I became enamoured with the M&E. There was nothing wrong with it, I just found it boring.

Andrea Seoul looks to be using those Magee tweeds if you want a rough idea on how they look.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I believe there are two different versions of that cloth -- one pale and the other yellow.

The yellow one:

View attachment 1503517


The pale one:

View attachment 1503518

I think the bottom one would work great for a Bal.

I wouldn't go for the more yellow-y one simply because I don't like the colour and already wear mostly khaki shades for pants.

 

[undertheskin]

That's correct. I went with M&E and not Magee. Interesting to see our different interpretations. I took the 'flat' hand as "Wow, this is softer for such a heavy tweed!" It worked for me due to the very bold pattern. M&E used to be under Huddersfield I think and they described the cloth as shetland wool.

I have the light grey Magee swatch you're looking at. Honestly I don't think the quality on any of these type of tweeds is worth being concerned about, they should all be decent. I also found it softer, stretchy and spongey.

I was going to go with that exact swatch before I became enamoured with the M&E. There was nothing wrong with it, I just found it boring.

Andrea Seoul looks to be using those Magee tweeds if you want a rough idea on how they look.

ye that's where i got the idea to browse magee came from. i am more drawn to the grey/black with colorless speckles tho.
i can see the point of having a more refined touch and that sure is what many want but i guess i just wouldn't enjoy to wear it with denim,cords,sweatpants and sneakers

 

[dieworkwear]

ye that's where i got the idea to browse magee came from. i am more drawn to the grey/black with colorless speckles tho.
i can see the point of having a more refined touch and that sure is what many want but i guess i just wouldn't enjoy to wear it with denim,cords,sweatpants and sneakers

Any reason why you don't want to do ready-to-wear?

 

[FlyingHorker]

ye that's where i got the idea to browse magee came from. i am more drawn to the grey/black with colorless speckles tho.
i can see the point of having a more refined touch and that sure is what many want but i guess i just wouldn't enjoy to wear it with denim,cords,sweatpants and sneakers

The good news is you literally can't go wrong with picking any of these fabrics IMO, you're on the right track. O'Connell's uses Magee for their tweed as another reference point for quality.

A charcoal bal in magee fabric would look great.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Some vaguely similiar bold checked jackets Derek has posted too.

 

[konstantis]

Here are some other photos although not a balcamaan.

 

[dieworkwear]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

 

[konstantis]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

Nice post. You have nailed all my worries. Still love the fabric although.

 

[konstantis]

My feeling with a bold bal coat is that you don't necessarily know if you'll like it until you put it on with an actual outfit that you intend on wearing. So in a store, you can try on a bold bal coat and see how it looks with your jeans and sweater. But with a custom bal coat, you don't necessarily know how it will look until it's finished.

In a basic fabric such as herringbone or Donegal, you can more easily conceptualize how the coat may look. But in a bolder fabric, even if you see photos, it may not be so clear. Think of it like ordering clothes from a store -- how many times have you seen something look great in a well-shot photograph and on a very good looking person, but then not like how it looks on you?

Personally, I think a bal is so roomy, there's little upside to going bespoke. If the prices aren't expensive and you happen to have a fabric you want to try out, bespoke can be a good option. Otherwise, a designer will have gone through the various iterative stages to get the collar and silhouette right (at least in his or her own opinion). A tailor will give you one shot, unless you're willing to commission multiple bal coats. They also won't give you the ability to put things back on the rack if you don't like it, unlike with ready to wear.

The good news is that here where I live bespoke clothes many times are cheaper than ready to wear clothes.

 

[undertheskin]

Any reason why you don't want to do ready-to-wear?

well, i would be fine with RTW if i could find something that fits decently, is well designed and has a comparable quality/price ratio as my tailor.

but my situation is pretty much like @FlyingHorker where my bespoke costs as much as RTW i would consider (drakes,ring,kaptain sunshine).

the only point for RTW would be fast accessibility - IF it would fit and can be tried on without too much of a hassle ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

edit: i should've read your latest posts before posting myself.