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Mahatma Jawndi
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I dress pretty casual, but have a fetish for overcoats. My outfits worn will range from anything to a shirt, to a shirt/polo with shawl cardigans, overshirt+t-shirt/collared shirt etc.

The only one I've found in stock was the SEH Kelly one, and that's the same total cost if I just go to my tailor.
Hm, those combos also sound odd to me.

It's hard to say without seeing the outfit and the specific pieces together. But overcoat over any of those things sounds strange.
 

FlyingHorker

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Some raglans have deep armholes that can be very uncomfortable and actually hinder movement despite the generous fit. Benefits of a high armhole apply here as well.
I have one RTW raglan rain coat and bought it two sizes smaller than my chest size and got a great fit. I hate the feeling of wearing loose, voluminous clothing. Prefer snug, close to the body
Will keep this in mind, though my trench seems to contradict this for my fit. The armholes are deep, but I notice it's very easy to slip on, and doesn't hinder my range of motion at all.

I'll bring up high armholes to my tailor as well and see what he thinks, I trust in his judgement.
Hm, those combos also sound odd to me.

It's hard to say without seeing the outfit and the specific pieces together. But overcoat over any of those things sounds strange.
Guess my tastes are odd man, it's basically what I've worn most winters.

I should add that what I wear underneath isn't obvious as I usually also wear a scarf.
 

dan'l

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I showed this to my tailor when I had my raglan sleeve overcoat made:

3472EEA8-F93D-4CE6-B84D-AD2ABB29E052.jpeg


I think it turned out well, though I‘m not nearly as cool as Kamoshita-san!

One or two seasons later Drake‘s came out with an overcoat that looks very similar, though made from a heavier Lovat cloth than I chose:

197B3936-025E-43CA-AC10-10A2A080BE06.jpeg


Even if that Drake‘s coat were available when I was planning mine, I think I would still have gone bespoke, because a) I like getting stuff made, and b) cloth + CMT fee was less than the Drake‘s coat.

Of course the disadvantage of bespoke is that some stuff is just tricky to have made and you are never 100% sure what the end result will look like, especially if your tailor hasn‘t made that style before.
 

classicalthunde

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I showed this to my tailor when I had my raglan sleeve overcoat made:

View attachment 1440513

I think it turned out well, though I‘m not nearly as cool as Kamoshita-san!

One or two seasons later Drake‘s came out with an overcoat that looks very similar, though made from a heavier Lovat cloth than I chose:

View attachment 1440514

Even if that Drake‘s coat were available when I was planning mine, I think I would still have gone bespoke, because a) I like getting stuff made, and b) cloth + CMT fee was less than the Drake‘s coat.

Of course the disadvantage of bespoke is that some stuff is just tricky to have made and you are never 100% sure what the end result will look like, especially if your tailor hasn‘t made that style before.
That jacket looks great! An overcoat is pretty far down the wish list of commissions, but this might have bumped it up a notch or two! I've always been a fan of the more functional hand warmer/slash pockets
 

comrade

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I'd rather not go full cut, I learned that full cut coats require you to wear something thicker underneath to take up space, and I want to be able to wear just a shirt as well. I won't be going slim fit either, somewhere in-between.

Aiming for just enough room to be able to fit a shawl cardigan underneath, but that may end up being full cut? Not sure.

That's a problem I have with a trench coat I picked up, and couldn't figure out initially why it looked off if I just wore a shirt underneath.

Inside the coat for sure, was wondering if it mattered where it's located in the coat.

English cut? I won't be getting any padding and will definitely be going raglan shoulder.
By English I mean full not built up shoulders.
 

FlyingHorker

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By English I mean full not built up shoulders.
Ah agreed. Interestingly I had the opposite association. English being stiffer and more shoulder padding.

Raglan basically demands no padding from what I can see.
 

comrade

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Sort of, I own a raglan wrap trench. I like the very full cut, but that's the very reason why I find it not versatile. I was thinking of just enough room for a shawl cardigan, and without the two verticle pleats seen on the chest below created from the full cut+belt.




I found pictures of @Dannefalk and his raglan coat ITT and it seems like what I'm going for.


These two look great. I have a dark grey Balmacaan which I bought a year or so
before I moved from Chicago to CA 30 years ago. It is a very dense Loden type
fabric which is quite warm for the weight. It looks quite formal. I have only worn
it in colder climes. It is from Burberry and looks like a more formal version of the
first coat above.
 

Phreaka

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I am risking being banned for posting the same thing in every sub-forum that might provide a feedback, but here you go.

Recently got a trial suit. Would love your feedback on it: Trial Suit
What I will change (if no one disagrees): Bellied lapel and open lower quarter, shirt sleeve, larger around the biceps, lower the front rise of trousers, longer inseam for a very slight break, perhaps increase hem width for proportionality.

Thanks for your expert advice!
 

konstantis

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have the same cloth in my closet, can’t wait to get it made up!
Really wonderful cloth. My only fault is that I wish to have the coat made 1.5 cm longer. It hits at my thumb knuckle but I wish I had it made 1.5 cm longer as my tailor advised me. I am wondering if the jacket could be lengthen now.
 

classicalthunde

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Really wonderful cloth. My only fault is that I wish to have the coat made 1.5 cm longer. It hits at my thumb knuckle but I wish I had it made 1.5 cm longer as my tailor advised me. I am wondering if the jacket could be lengthen now.
yea, I’m saving mine for a country-style jacket to replace a my current, lighter Moon shetland tweed.

fell in love with fabric when i saw it on ULS, and once it came back in stock in jumped on it just to be able to lock it down for a future commission
 

induere_to

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This bespoke project has been ongoing now since January. Had quite a few hiccups; some preventable. But I’m just happy that the final touches are being added and I’ll get it just in time for Fall.

657F6908-C705-48A0-90B1-5283998596D4.jpeg


AE7CCB11-4661-4C3A-88DD-D05EF62935A1.jpeg


8AB022AB-9829-4D6C-9362-76F4827C9C60.jpeg


5E55C6C0-80FA-46A6-93A1-528F826F5A1F.jpeg


3A7A99D5-6D20-47A6-895D-C51B979BEA01.jpeg


9D2A0701-45AC-4328-8F56-F1CFFC0094E1.jpeg
 

FlyingHorker

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Encathol Epistemia

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damn my indecisiveness, now I want this as an overcoat too.

beautiful tweed SC.
That's fantastic! I'm probably too much of a coward to ever do anything similar myself, but I cannot but admire the piece. It's the sort of thing that one would stare at in the street, but in the best of ways.
 

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