Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[aristoi bcn]

Raffaele Iorio.

 

[Crispyj]

This guy.

 

[The Chai]

It looks like Davide Taub makes an interesting version of those pockets we discussed earlier (the ones with stitching around the pocket). I rather like the style, although it looks more at home on the moleskin jacket.



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I personally think this pocket style would only look good on one specific style of jacket...a cream linen coat of some description. I was playing with the idea of having it on a sbpl silk jacket I'm currently having made but decided against it. Still, would not get a pocket like this until I have had many jackets in rotation...it is kinda odd

 

[dieworkwear]

Curious if anyone else finds that they prefer lighter colored coats to be a smidge shorter than darker colored coats.

I find that dark-colored coats can be fine in a more traditional cut. A traditional length may help elongate the silhouette and look elegant.

But on a lighter colored coat, the lines on the silhouette become clearer. It also seems like the coat looks longer.

I'm speaking specifically about suits, as those jackets are often cut a little longer than sport coats (also because in a darker colored suit, the jacket and pants visually blend into each other).

Does anyone else find this with suits? Do you account for fabric color when judging the length?

 

[IJReilly]

How much shorter are we talking? I’ve never thought about it, but I would never dare buy a light colored suit to begin with.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I guess I’ve thought of it more as a formal/informal thing vs a light/dark thing, but there’s probably a lot of overlap between the two.

 

[dieworkwear]

How much shorter are we talking? I’ve never thought about it, but I would never dare buy a light colored suit to begin with.

Not sure. I suppose it depends on how someone's tailor makes a coat (i.e. how short or long to begin with). With Steed, I just tell them to make it a little shorter if I want it shorter.

 

[induere_to]

It looks like Davide Taub makes an interesting version of those pockets we discussed earlier (the ones with stitching around the pocket). I rather like the style, although it looks more at home on the moleskin jacket.



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There's an IGTV Rubinacci video that was posted months ago. Luca walks us through a display of archived jackets made by his grand father (Mariano's father) and he outlined the pick-stitched pocket outline on a jetted pocket that was made in the '30's or '40's (I can't remember exactly). I had taken a screen shot to show a local tailor. It has been requested to be an addition to my upcoming suit.

 

[Mark from Plano]

There's an IGTV Rubinacci video that was posted months ago. Luca walks us through a display of archived jackets made by his grand father (Mariano's father) and he outlined the pick-stitched pocket outline on a jetted pocket that was made in the '30's or '40's (I can't remember exactly). I had taken a screen shot to show a local tailor. It has been requested to be an addition to my upcoming suit.

 

[Despos]

@dieworkwear
pic from the previous page. this is an interior bellows pocket. Mentioned it last week

 

[dieworkwear]

Both of those jackets are also in their vanity book.

@dieworkwear
pic from the previous page. this is an interior bellows pocket. Mentioned it last week
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Yes, I noticed that too. Remember you explaining that detail.

Don't think I carry enough in my pockets for that to be functional, but the style and construction are interesting.

I had a poachers pocket put into one of my tweeds. TBH, mostly use it to carry papers and magazines.

 

[IJReilly]

I had a poachers pocket put into one of my tweeds. TBH, mostly use it to carry papers and magazines.

Well if you ever have kids you will have lots of use for it. Wish I had one on most of my garments...

 

[classicalthunde]

I had a poachers pocket put into one of my tweeds. TBH, mostly use it to carry papers and magazines.

would you be able to post a pic of this one day? I have one on my Barbour and love it, use it all the time...curious to see how it plays out on a vented sport coat

 

[dieworkwear]

would you be able to post a pic of this one day? I have one on my Barbour and love it, use it all the time...curious to see how it plays out on a vented sport coat

Sure.

Pocket design originally comes from game hunting/ poaching, where someone would kill something like a small bird and stuff it into a hidden pocket to avoid detection by gamekeepers (so goes the legend, anyway). I had one put into this tweed so I could use it as a "reading jacket." The pouch holds an iPad, papers, or a magazine. Just above it is the usual in-breast pocket. Then two pen pockets -- one to hold a regular pen, and then one that's slightly wider and shallower to hold a highlighter.

A strap comes down from the armhole seam to help carry the weight. Some poacher pockets have a button at the strap. Mine doesn't have a button.

 

[classicalthunde]

Sure.

Pocket design originally comes from game hunting/ poaching, where someone would kill something like a small bird and stuff it into a hidden pocket to avoid detection by gamekeepers (so goes the legend, anyway). I had one put into this tweed so I could use it as a "reading jacket." The pouch holds an iPad, papers, or a magazine. Just above it is the usual in-breast pocket. Then two pen pockets -- one to hold a regular pen, and then one that's slightly wider and shallower to hold a highlighter.

A strap comes down from the armhole seam to help carry the weight. Some poacher pockets have a button at the strap. Mine doesn't have a button.


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