Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[David Reeves]



shouldn't one who has years of studying have the tools to create something new and different?

@greger what are your thoughts on the subject.

Its like asking Patek to make a knock off Rolex or vice versa....

If you don't agree with me then I think you just don't value fine suits as much as other luxury products.

 

[David Reeves]



Yes, this is true. But, tailoring is also an art, so no copying. Nobody owns a style. Never copy to closely somebody else variation. And why would you want to.

So many tailors, it seems, have been taught to make or develop a house style. Which isn't wrong up to a point. Clothes do change from time to time and the tailor needs to be relevant. For example, who wears frock coats to work. They were replaced by the lowly lounge and reefer. None of the tailors today were part of the changes. The old tailors knew how to change. Do the present day tailors know how to do that. It seems like many of these today are turning down some modern day clothes, whereas tailors of the past stayed relevant, such as making all the clothes men and boys wore. Big city tailors could be picky.

I think they can't change as quickly though because 99% of them are doing MTM made by the same people in Hong Kong.....its just got a different label in it, but its all the same.

I have preferences and house style but its always evolving, I fear becoming dated and stale stylistically. I see myself very much as a style leader rather than following fashions or trends.

Just one very simple case in point, when new cloth books come out from Dormeuil or Loro piana every season, we are a year ahead of anything that can be produced off the rack by designers using those cloths and colors. Because of the expense of those cloths they are only really used by high end brands so everyone else follows on yet another year later.

Of course fast fashion skews that but they don't make anything of quality, just disposable weekend wear.

 

[Gatsbyu]



I got my burgundy suit for fall. waiting on the lilac velvet DB and off white three piece moleskin. Decided to give the ink flannel DB suit a miss a couple of clients have got that on order so I can enjoy vicariously.

clean silhouette, nice sleeves, good pressing ! The lining is well attached. Quite British btw.

 

[Gatsbyu]



Its like asking Patek to make a knock off Rolex or vice versa....

If you don't agree with me then I think you just don't value fine suits as much as other luxury products.

Nowadays, the word "style" is really abused. Customers are reluctant to understand the tailoring work (sleeve setting, iron work, stitching) and just look for button stance (high,low), shoulder (natural ,roped, neapolitan), gorge height...

It makes many good tailors underrated.

Speaking of Hong Kong, the industry has experienced tough time in last few decades. But, in recent 5 years, more and more ambitious tailors are trying to develop their house styles.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Can I see your Cad and the Dandy stuff FM? Just curious.

Sure - I put a picture of the suit in WAYWRN yesterday:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/394373/...-part-iv-starting-may-2014/25815#post_8073448

The tie is not everyone's cup of tea, but I think the suit speaks for itself...

 

[David Reeves]



clean silhouette, nice sleeves, good pressing ! The lining is well attached. Quite British btw.

You bet it is!

 

[third tailor]

I would not ask a superstar tailor to do other tailoring house cut. But what if you dont have money to go to reeves or corcos? and you dont even live close to europe or usa? Also you have a very good friend tailor who is willing to experiment some cuts with you? Thats my history i am just 20 years old, dont have a job because college takes all my energy so it leaves me whit some limited money that i spend all in tailoring. Also i live in colombia a country thats no famous for its tailoring

 

[GabrielOB]

Some finished and new projects from Kotaro:

 

[Dannefalk]

First fitting with Kotaro-san.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Man, I love that guys work.

 

[dieworkwear]



Some finished and new projects from Kotaro:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

That looks really good. Am I wrong in thinking that you raised the buttoning point from the house style?

 

[xizenta]

What's his wait time right now? I emailed and he told me 6 months .
I also asked if he could get two fittings done in a one week period if I fly in from California. Sort of hoping I can get the fit pretty much set this way and have him send me the finished product later.

 

[lordsuperb]

People would rather fly half way across the world for clothes rather than vacash?

 

[xizenta]



People would rather fly half way across the world for clothes rather than vacash?

It would be my first time in Italy, so yes, it would also be kind of a vacation .

 

[sprout2]

Some finished and new projects from Kotaro:

I have to ask, what is the cloth in the first one here? Do I detect a faint overcheck?