Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[emptym]

For years my shop has not been able to produce more than 4-5 suits a week and I think our average is actually about 3 per week.
I used to see this as a deficit but my thinking changed. If I tried to produce more I couldn't put as much time into each garment. Putting in the time equates to a better more consistent result which became what I valued over higher production numbers.
Decades ago Oxxford had a quota for the people who made the collars on their jackets. You had to make between X & X amount of collars per day. A minimum to earn your pay but a maximum per day because the quality would suffer. It takes time to produce something by hand. If you want it done quicker you minimize the steps and standardize the operations. That's the principle behind RTW.

If I ever produced an advertisement for my business I would use a picture of a tailor working at his bench making a jacket. The picture next to it would be a factory mass producing suits and the owner talking with the production foreman saying, "how can we make more suits at a lower cost?"
Above the tailor would be a bubble saying "how can I make this one suit even better?

@DWFII has been making this point for years.

 

[imatlas]

@DWFII has been making this point for years.

Yes but he makes it in the form of angry rants that tend to trigger knee-jerk defensiveness.

 

[dauster]

That's why I always worried about the traveling Italian tailors. I'm sure they do great work but if there are problems, you're sort of SOL. I'm sure it's much different if you live in Italy and you can easily get to the sartoria.

Solito seems to be doing solid work but that's only hearsay never actually commissioned anything...

 

[bry2000]

Solito seems to be doing solid work but that's only hearsay never actually commissioned anything...

There is a Solito thread if you are looking for more feedback.

 

[WillingToLearn]

If I recall, he disappeared for 2 years with people's money?

 

[bry2000]

If I recall, he disappeared for 2 years with people's money?

Haha, I will take the over. (But I have inside information).

 

[brax]

2nd fitting in Harrison’s Millionaire cashmere. Client put on a little growth in the bicep and chest since the first fitting.

Client probably appreciates the compliment.

 

[dieworkwear]

@DWFII has been making this point for years.

Yes but he makes it in the form of angry rants that tend to trigger knee-jerk defensiveness.

I think .... I think I suddenly understand Bernie Sanders.

 

[NakedYoga]

Client probably appreciates the compliment.

"Hey bro, the good news is you're looking swoll. The bad news is it's going to be another five months for these alterations."

 

[Mr. Six]

Derek got Solito to come to the Bay Area once they started visiting LA. I ordered a sport coat. I think I had three appointments: measurements plus two fittings. It might have been three fittings (so four total). He shipped it to me once finished. It came out really nicely, although I haven't worn it yet--other than to try on--because it's a spring-summer jacket. I will definitely order again.

 

[WillingToLearn]

I have heard he is reliable now, but there were some NYC stories from back in the day. Mina told me once she regularly has customers ask her if she will try to collect from other neopolitans that didnt deliver.

 

[bry2000]

I have heard he is reliable now, but there were some NYC stories from back in the day. Mina told me once she regularly has customers ask her if she will try to collect from other neopolitans that didnt deliver.

I know it is common for tailors (or Clothiers/designers) to bash competitors, but Mina hated a Solito sport coat that I had worn to one of my fittings. It became a running joke while I was her customer. I actually thought the Solito SC was pretty good, but she was relentless. (She also ROFL when she saw me in one of my A&S alum suits, although it still is one of my favorites).

 

[lordsuperb]

I know it is common for tailors (or Clothiers/designers) to bash competitors, but Mina hated a Solito sport coat that I had worn to one of my fittings. It became a running joke while I was her customer. I actually thought the Solito SC was pretty good, but she was relentless. (She also ROFL when she saw me in one of

Is that why you’re no longer a customer, she didn’t like you cheating on her?

 

[WillingToLearn]

For tailors I have finished garments from, I always wear their stuff to the appointment. I feel like it's a sign of respect and occasionally I point out a change in something I am wearing I'd like to have made in the next item.

 

[dieworkwear]

Have people noticed a difference in how the lapel rolls on an English jacket vs. an Italian jacket? From having browsed around, and seeing my own commissions, I feel like Italian jackets generally have a more expressive roll. It's less so on an English jacket.

I've asked cutters what goes into the break on their lapel. Sometimes I get a somewhat technical answer that I don't totally understand. Other times it's chalked up to the usual "quality of the coat maker and hand-sewing" argument. I'm curious if someone has heard more about this. Is there a difference in the canvas used or where it's placed?