1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 7: A Made-to-Measure suit from Lanieri

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    The 6th auction of the year is for a Made-to-measure suit from Lanieri. Please bid often and generously here

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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Leaves

    Leaves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    What if I ask Liverano to do a Tom Ford suit, would that be disrespectful?
     


  2. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Senior Member

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    Asking an Italian tailor to do British coats ? First, many Italian tailors do bias cut (to add elasticity for soft tailoring) while British tailor do straight grain, except A&S. Second, the pattern of British tailors are significantly different from Italian , look at the side panel !

    Take a look to Italian tailoring book and British tailoring book, you will know they are very different, from pattern making (50-50 for British and false forearm for Italian) and canvas preparation (how to cut bias, iron work, pad stitching). So, British for Italian ?

    Liverano has a very unique pattern in forepart and side panel, the chest line is not horizontal in order to have better waist suppression. 1 major difference with Steed.

    FYI
    [ATTACHMENT=11639]Whife_straight_vs_bias.jpg (79k. jpg file)[/ATTACHMENT]
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015


  3. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    How does the bias cutting work with patterned fabrics?
     


  4. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    You're welcome:

    [​IMG]
     


  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Kind of wish Foo had asked Cleverley to copy his Plaza lasted Alden brogues.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015


  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Distinguished Member

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    But then all of the shoes wouldn't be identical...
     


  7. YRR92

    YRR92 Distinguished Member

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    From what I've read on Diduch's blog, the canvas is cut on the bias in A&S, but not in some other styles. I think that's what's being referred to here: I can't recall ever seeing an Italian suit that looked like the cloth had been cut on the bias.
     


  8. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior Member

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    I thought @Gatsbyu said Italian tailors often cut on the bias?
     


  9. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    You like your pinstripes at a 45 degrees angle?
     


  10. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior Member

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    I don't even know what's happening. Are only solid fabrics cut on the bias? Was @YRR92 only referring to patterned fabrics?
     


  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    ::insert awesome photo of RSS::


    He meant the canvas

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/02/drape-part-2.html
     


  12. YRR92

    YRR92 Distinguished Member

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    In terms of "never having seen a suit that looked like it was cut on the bias," one would be able to tell if a non-patterned cloth were cut on the bias, though a patterned cloth would of course be more obvious: a solid plain weave would look like a diamond weave, and a solid twill would look like a rib weave. The exterior shell of a suit cut on the bias would look really odd and not at all classic (I bet Armani tried it in the '80s), while grain-cut cloth over bias-cut canvassing is part of the house style at some tailors who want a really drapey chest.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015


  13. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Senior Member

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    Thanks for clarification !

    I think this one serves better for explanation:

    http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.hk/2009_02_01_archive.html

    As you can see, bias cut gives extra elasticity on canvas, so it makes canvas easier to stretch (so we can do more iron work). Also, bias cut makes coat more wrinkle resistant, it helps the coat stand better. Italian tailors, esp southern Italy use bias cut because their tailoring is, loosely speaking, less-structured, the cut gives coats better shape without add more canvas.

    Bias vs Straight is just one of the differences, something more for iron work, pad stitching, etc. So, is it possible or reasonable to ask a British tailor to do Italian tailoring ? And, whenever you ask a truly bespoke tailor, who spent decades to develop their own stuff, to replicate the work from the others instead of doing their house cut. How do you feel if you were the tailor ?
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    I was so embarrassed to ask for triple patch pockets and three buttons on the sleeve on my last order. I had to pretend I hadn't decided on the details yet and told them I would email it in, just so I could hide my shame.
     


  15. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    Incidentally, I've heard that if cut the chest on the bias, then the shoulder is straight. Or if you cut the chest straight, the shoulder is on the bias.

    Is there a reason why someone would want more shaping in the shoulders? I get the shaping on the chest part, but I don't really under what it means to have a jacket that's strongly shaped in the shoulders.

    Is it better for people with very forward pitched shoulders?
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015


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