Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.
Let steed do steed.
Don't move the buttoning point, it's the only detail of this jacket that looks about right IMHO. Instead, let out the waist a bit, make the jacket an inch (at least) longer, get less padded shoulders and slightly wider, more concave lapels, and it will probably look a bit more coherent style wise.
Regardless, whichever style you end up going for, the jacket should be slightly longer.
I never had a german-made suit in my life, I'm afraid. The light grey fresco and navy pinstripe are from a different florentine tailor who cuts cleaner, "harder"; unfortunately, that's what the suits feel like, too. Maybe you meant them.
@third tailor: one point that hasn't been mentioned, but I think is very important is that all the advice you have been given is so far based on one phone mirror shot. I wouldn't trust that photo to display proportions correctly. For example, the jacket looks short, but it could very well be just the angle the photo was taken. It's generally hard to assess fit/styling just over images, but near impossible to do so from one not-perfect shot.
@EFV I just commissioned a suit at Bauer. I am very happy with me previous DB and SC. What I find is a very big advantage is that they are just five minutes from where I live, so I can have it adjusted if need be, as opposed to travelling tailors where it's a bit complicated to make adjustments. This was never a problem for me before as I kept my weight pretty well but a healthier lifestyle has made me much more slim.
Would you like to tag along and document the process? I think you live pretty close by right?
I don't believe you, you always wear Eduard Dressler when you are not posing for SF.
Would be fun. Send me a PM with the time and I'll see if I'm available.
Some pics of my latest bespoke projects.
Some parts of your coat are very nice. As others have said it consists of styles instead of a continuum of one from top to bottom. The button is in a good location but the garment wasn't fitted right which makes it tight (that should have been sorted out with the first fitting. There are many fine styles of lapels and the ones on this coat are very nice. Your camera looks to have somewhat of a wide angle lens. The camera is held high so the bottom of the picture looks smaller because of the curvature of the lens. If you stood back further and crop the picture the picture it might be less distorted. Also, a profile photo would be very telling.
Awesome - I thought that first one was a dressing gown, but it's an overcoat right? (would be a superb dressing gown).
is a little tough when people tell you that the only thing thats rigth is the button stance but thats what i expected from styleforum. as for the length it looks a lot like this including the litlle crease that is shown in the left leg just under the butt. i would show you my real picture but i have to do some modification before that, because is not very clean, and the cloth is really really ligth and hard to work with; it shows a lot of imperfections
my shoulder is unpaded but i stuffed a lot of roping, so i do not need a softer shoulder i need to take out all that material, it was a very bad move but is just the sleevehead, before that it used to look like this
and sander got a big point on that way i stand and take the picture, but not just in the length, this cloth tends to show diferent imperfections depending on the ligth that hit it, take a look at this (please please ignore the very fancy toilet paper and tshirt)
the quarters look a lot cleaner
and im not the only one that seems to have a bit of pulling down there, take a look to bemedikt fries (a guy that i deeply admire) and his quarters in this picture
the button is a lot higher than mine and his shoulder looks a lot rounder, but the quarters are pulling a little bit, but his cloth is more forgiving than the the dry and flimsy barberis canonico that i bougth
anyway, thanks for all the advice, i will take a lot of them and im sorry if im filling this thread with non related stuff, maybe ill upload a picture of the brown irish linen that im planing to use on my next comision, and upload pictures of fittings
take a look on taka´s back on this video, no one is perfect and even less with ligth cloth, still looks really good
You got me.
@third tailor: no need to get defensive, guys on here are passionate about clothes so we will point out every tiny thing that's wrong. I'd be overcome with joy if I saw you on the street somewhere wearing that suit.
I second Sander's answer. Of course I write in hyperbole. You look better than 99% of the people I see on a daily basis. I just suppose you want to look even better, that's why I commented on some of the details of your jacket. Also, I really think the buttoning point looks perfectly placed as is.
Hhaha no i wasnt being defensive, if i posted pictures on styleforum was because i wanted very hard critics and i got what i wanted. In fact im very thankful
@Sander that hard heaviness was what I liked about the other suits -- I thought it was a deliberate choice. The expressive fullness of those looks really good on your tall frame. I think the Corcos (I may be repeating myself) comes across as too dainty on you.
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