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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Suit looks too slim, IMO, the rounded quarters look at odds with the other elements of that suit. It works on Liverano because of the overall roundness of his silhouette -- the way he cuts the lapels, shoulders, and the fullness he generally puts into his fit. This looks like a slim, sharp suit above the buttoning point, with an awkwardly open quarter just below.

    You might be better of going with whatever is the house style for the tailor instead of forcing Liverano elements into his cut.
     


  2. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Yeah, the Liverano cut would also require a three-button configuration. The lapel looks too much of a straight line above the button. The top button would break that up a little, with the lapel somewhat rounded.
     


  3. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    This also belongs here; the finished Corcos suit I showed progress of a few pages ago. Not the best picture, will provide tons more in the future, already my favorite suit.

    [​IMG]
     


  4. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Affiliate Vendor

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    Brown is the new black. Looking good bruh! [​IMG]
     


  5. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Affiliate Vendor

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    Speaking of brown... Throwing this in the mix: subtle greyish/brown suit from korean Tailorable & Co. Sorry for the crappy pictures, just had my phone and apparently some sort of filter on.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I also have a coat in the making from Tailorable which i completely forgot to take pictures of. Its a doublebreasted dark blue 800g dugdale monster.
     


  6. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Senior member

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    IMO, you can achieve better silhouette by making the button stance higher, narrowing the shoulder (the upper part of your suit is quite British but the bottom part is very Italian....). Also the suit is too short ......


    Liverano style is featured by no front dart. As someone mentioned above, it is hard to force a tailor who didn't have pattern making experience on no-front dart style. The front dart comes with reason, it create a fuller chest, increase waist suppression and maintain balance on bottom of the forepart.

    Whenever we take it out from the pattern, we need to rebuild the "balance" of the suit. Neck point, iron work, side panel and waist suppression on the back and more have to be adjusted.
     


  7. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Disagree about button stance (nicely low by itself) and the shoulders (should not be any narrower, maybe softer).
     


  8. third tailor

    third tailor Member

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    i agree with you, i will put the button higher and will take out some of the shoulder in the next suit. this does not have any shoulderpad and i wanted to do some roping but i think is overdone. also i think that in this particular jacket i will let go some of the back so the quarters can rest without too much pulling. will also give it more length in the next jacket maybe an inch ¿do you think i need more?

    the thing about this tailor is that he does not have a hose style (blasphemy!) he is used to cut any thing that the client wants (exept a very british coat), not like those superstar tailors that you guys use. so i like some things about liverano (and florentine style) and others that i dont and wanted to do a mixture of it , so, no 3roll2 and the button lower, now i dont like it like that and will change that in future comisions.

    and for the pattern, he has told me that in my city all jackets used to be dartles and with curved quarters he says "asi le gustaban a los viejos" (thats the way the old guys liked it). so he (i hope) is no stranger to this cut, what he is stranger to is the low button and thigthness arround the legs that i requested and will get rid of

    my perfect cut would be the corcos one in sander, it looks slim and rounded, with also sloping shoulders, thats where i want to get. if i could i would go to florence, but i have no money for the travel, and even less for a suit that expensive i think in my next comission i will get closer to a cleaner suit. tanks a lot to everyone on the feedback i have no one to talk to here about tailoring so is helping me a lot
     


  9. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Interestingly, my least favorite suit from you. I preferred the German (?) stuff you usually wear.
     


  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    You must be talking about his Suit Supply suits...they look great on him. Personally, I love the Corcos stuff he has too.
     


  11. Gatsbyu

    Gatsbyu Senior member

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    You can release some inlays on side panel, it can help the forepart lay flat. And yes, the jacket should be longer, at least 1 inch. Be reminded, make your sleeves longer next time when you take out some of the shoulder.

    To play safe, you should spend some money and ask your tailor for a muslin fit. If it goes well, make a real cut. This is the best way to achieve a perfect cut.
     


  12. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Just a suggestion: when thinking about what parts of Liverano's suit you like, think about the overall silhouette, rather than just the area below the buttoning point. He combines a very rounded, slightly extended shoulder line with a concave lapel, so that you almost get a ) ( shape from the top of the lapel to the hem, rather than something angled like X. Here's Ethan and Gaz in their Liveranos

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Personally, I think the three-roll-two works well for that style. One button suits feel a lot better suited to the X or Y silhouettes, but maybe just because I associate them with Huntsman.

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, my point is: think about how these elements give the overall impression of a silhouette, rather than mixing and matching things you like here and there from different tailoring houses. I think it'll give you a better look.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2015


  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Would it be sacrilegious to try this with Steed?
     


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    The Liverano quarter thing? Obviously up to you, but I wouldn't do it.
     


  15. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Will you be asking Porsche to build you a Ferrari?
     


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