Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

    Messages:
    492
    Likes Received:
    463
    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2014
    Location:
    London, England
    I think it looks great, I couldn't ever decide if I liked the Corcos style but seeing that makes me wish Florence was a bit easier to get to. I personally don't want my shape "enhanced" to look bigger than I am - I'm 6 foot tall and I have to put a lot of work in to keep below 155lbs, because I'm a fairly competitive cyclist and weight is the enemy in this sport. I like how I look, so I just want a suit to fit me well; If I wanted to look bulky I'd go back to lifting.
     


  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,331
    Likes Received:
    1,798
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    I understand the psycho-emotional dimension of this ("It's important for me to look the way I am"), but Japanese tailors cut close suits, almost to a fault. You can take the Japanese tailor out of Japan, but you cannot the tendency out of the tailor. We might say that Liverano's client base is so overwhelmingly Japanese that Liverano also falls into this matrix. Other, lesser, maligned Florentine tailors do not make such slim suits.

    I think it is cut perfectly, it just does not have cultural currency everywhere. Don't misconstrue my point to mean that you should inject padding throughout your clothing to create some sort of Adonysian physique. I am saying that from a purely cultural standpoint, if you go to Japan and get suits made and then walk the promenade in -- pick a major city -- London? people will think a) you work in fashion b) you are wearing a Japanese suit c) you got it in the boys' department.

    My point about having the same physique is not about suffering from a complex. It's about facing the reality of getting suits locally and wanting to wear them globally. This may not matter to you.
     


  3. jedwards

    jedwards Senior member

    Messages:
    447
    Likes Received:
    192
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2006
    I'm always confused about this belief that a suit can make someone look taller or shorter or whatever.
    Never felt or seen that personally in my life.

    I think Braddock's suits look great - some stuff is stylistic and seems to be a characteristic of Florence, a little shorter on the body than Naples does typically (at least from my experience) but certainly not 'noticeable' as to be any kind of negative, just a matter of taste.

    Put the jacket down to his mid thigh, and the pants with a full break, and an inch extended shoulder and he is not going to look any 'bigger' or more 'statuesque'. Nothing wrong with being slim, natural build and certainly not something to try to camouflage.

    As DieWorker says, you really can't tell much from baste fitting, even forward fitting stage (again in my experience) I have had some forward fittings where I was like "there is just no way the guy is going to be able to pull this all together, the shoulder/neck is horrible", as it turned out, it looked and felt amazing on final fitting and completely different from my imagination and perceived / presumptions around how it would fit in the end.

    Everything I have seen on this thread about Corcos has made me want to try him out.
     


  4. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,331
    Likes Received:
    1,798
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    It was missing a comma. I was making an editor's joke.
     


  5. bienluienapris

    bienluienapris Senior member

    Messages:
    891
    Likes Received:
    5,477
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2014
    Location:
    Geneva, Switzerland
    In my opinion, that's absolutely true. We often see people going to a tailor and asking something that is not in the spirit of this tailor... I can't understant that. It's definetely not logical to go to a Savile Row tailor for asking a Napoletan shoulders... If you choose to work with a tailor it's because you like his taste and his style. For exemple, if you go to Ciardi in Napoli, they'll refuse to do something out of their style, not only because they didn't want to do this, but because they believe on their taste.

    The first try is always for the tailor, on the second you can give a bit your opinion, but only when the suit is finished you can judge the suit.

    And yes, for me a suit shouldn't make you taller or bigger, it should mask your little default but you have still look what you are, it's pretty important in my opinion.

    Excuse me but it's ridiculous... Today the worl is global, there is different style in different city, but it's stupid to say that if you do a suit in italy you can't wear it in London...

    First, most of people will not recognise that's a Florentine suit or a Japanese suit. Secondly, i don't know why wearing a japanes suit is a sign of working in fashion (Braddock works in fashion, all right). Thirdly, a japanes suit will make you look child....

    I can understand a bit what you said, but only 30 year ago when there was more rule (for exemple in London, at the city), but today only in a few company.
     


  6. Braddock

    Braddock Senior member

    Messages:
    439
    Likes Received:
    8,114
    Joined:
    May 1, 2012
    Location:
    Florence
    Haha yes, I'm pretty sure people apart from this forum will think "you are wearing a Japanese suit". [​IMG] It's ok when I look like I work in fashion, because I do work in fashion. :)

    How many Florentine tailors do you know besides Liverano and Kotaro and which other Italian tailors did you try? I don't know why you think his suits are that slim. My jackets from Kotaro are the most comfortable jackets I ever had and I couldn't imagine roomier jackets without being too large. His pants are rather slim, that's right, but as long as they drape perfectly and I don't feel uncomfortable in them I don't mind.

    I think I get what you mean now, but that really doesn't matter to me and it sounds a bit like you think a bit too much what other people think about your clothes. I've never made the experience, that people don't take me serious or stuff like that because of my way to dress. And I don't see the problem when suits of Japanese tailors look Japanese.
     


  7. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,331
    Likes Received:
    1,798
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    I think you guys are grossly missing my point about wearing a Japanese suit abroad. No one is going to notice details and mark it to sartoria X Y or Z. I meant it will appear extremely lean, if well cut.

    Don't get me wrong, Japanese suits are extremely comfortable and ergonomical, esp. the way the armhole intersects. You have unparalleled mobility. It is possible to make them very ergonomic and movement-oriented while giving the impression of being a very lean suit.

    Thirty years ago, my tailor changed his style to something more international because clients were going overseas in blatantly Japanese suits that people thought looked childish. Now that the world has embraced this style, a Japanese cut can go unnoticed.

    On a more serious note, does anyone who works in fashion not look like they work in fashion?
     


  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    11,213
    Likes Received:
    3,883
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    : (
     


  9. Braddock

    Braddock Senior member

    Messages:
    439
    Likes Received:
    8,114
    Joined:
    May 1, 2012
    Location:
    Florence
    If this is a serious question: yes, at least 95% who work in fashion don't look like they work in fashion.
     


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,832
    Likes Received:
    17,371
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    This thread needs more pics of sprout in perfectly international fitting yet not too Japanese boyish Japanese suits. We need some illustrations for the argument :)
     


  11. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,331
    Likes Received:
    1,798
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    

    Funnily enough, today I am wearing ill-fiting boyish Japanese fresco pants that give me a wedgie. It's a moving target
     


  12. Sander

    Sander Senior member

    Messages:
    2,894
    Likes Received:
    6,176
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2006
    

    So, off to the next bathroom! :nodding:
     


  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    36,832
    Likes Received:
    17,371
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    The fresco scratchiness combined with a wedgie cut... hmm.. that sounds like a special kind of Japanese kinky right there
     


  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

    Messages:
    2,512
    Likes Received:
    118
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    

    Pics or it did not happen :hide:
     


  15. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,968
    Likes Received:
    12,952
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    To get a fuller fit, I suggest using language that a Japanese tailor will understand. Maybe ask for a "Totoro fit" or a "Godzilla fit." (Or in their case, an "aaahhhhhhhhhhhh Godzirrrrrraaaaa fit.")

    Source: I've been to Benihana.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2015


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by