Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Quote:I think this on all his pictures, but it's consider verboten because, you know, traveling to Florence and all, this must be the genuine article, endorsed by Monocle and Gene Krell and all. Miyahira's suits are stylistically unimpeachable and they seem to have excellent anatomical range of movement. However, he has a penchant for shearing away as much imperfection as possible and cutting a very close suit. Seen from the back, they look amazing, a portrait of geometric perfection. From the front and sides, less so. They tend to look pretty sharp on the tailor himself, though. (Isn't this always the case?) I would wager to say that the lapels are also too big for this man. The shoulder and body are cut very close, and the jacket is short in the (typically, or so we have been led to believe from a sample of 2-3 tailors) Florentine style. The pant hems are short and the leg is very close. In all, this creates a very compact look that does not enhance B's figure, even for all the sculptural detail and play of color in the world. One needs only to look at the detailed pictures that accompany each photoset to see the close shoulders and body on every jacket. I wouldn't normally interject my 2c to another shopper's decision to spend large sums of money to highlight his slight appearance, but I have the same build and this problem strikes a chord. More volume is needed everywhere.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  2. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Interesting. I think everything looks very well proportioned. I particularly like the wide lapels and what always appeared to me to be a fairly extended shoulder, particularly on the green jacket. Perhaps the pwants could be a bit longer and looser, but they've never bothered me in pics.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  3. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    The suit looks fine and seems age appropriate.
     
  4. greger

    greger Senior member

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    This is an expression of 'good choice'.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    +1

    Or at least he/we hope that the solaro will turn out the same.

    Color and fabric should impact the overall visual silhouette in addition to the cutting.
     
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    "Slight"? Braddock looks like what he is: A slim man wearing a nicely cut suit. Perhaps some are looking for the suit to do something different, but I see no problem with this cut for him.
     
  7. burghler

    burghler Senior member

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  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    White Flannel three piece SB2 (Dormeuil)

    Burgundy flannel three piece SB2 (Loro Piana)

    Primary blue flannel DB (Scabal)

    It's all about flannel next season.
     
  9. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Quote:Maybe this was the problem with my analysis
     
  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    If we cannot judge overall silhouette and proportions at the basted or forward fittings, when is the moment to do so?
    (Genuine question this, though it may sound sarcastic)
     
  11. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    When it's done.

    I know the party line is that bespoke allows you to hone in on the cut through the various fittings, but ... I just don't think that's true. It's true for the tailor, as he or she knows what's going on. But aside from commenting on whether the length is right, I don't know how much meaningful feedback a client can give at the fitting stages. I mean, it's a half-made garment. You can maybe move your arms and pretend to give feedback, but -- the lapels are half finished, and never look like they do on the final garment; the chest is only half made; the shoulders aren't in their final form; the thing isn't even pressed; and sometimes there's so much stitching everywhere that you don't even know what you're looking at.

    Everyone likes to poke fun at Foo for his 11 suits comment, but there's a little wisdom in there. I find it's much more useful to use previous orders as a way to adjust new commissions -- not use fittings to dictate how to things should look.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2015
  12. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    Kotaro does ask about the fit (length, fullness) of the pants, though, so this may be a stylistic choice.
     
  13. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    Then maybe we can agree that the client is asking for things to be shorn away too much.
    As I said, the suits tend to look fine on Miyahira.

    Also, hone in = home in
     
  14. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    I think that is your subjective style vs his...
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2015
  15. Braddock

    Braddock Senior member

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    @sprout2 I think there's a huge difference in what we expect from bespoke suits. I don't think I'm slight (rather average), but yeah, I have small shoulders and of course I'm quite short. But I'm very satisfied with my body and it's important for me to look like what I am. I don't want to act like I'm taller or bigger, that sounds so wrong and ridiculous to me. I don't get it. I have suits from 6 different tailors and I was never so happy with a tailor like I'm with Kotaro. And please, that's a totally common lapel width. Not large, not small. And of course the Solaro will look the same like the finished blue suit and also my green Donegal suit and my green summer jacket. The difference there are the fabrics and the pockets; everything else is the same (no different cuts or lapel width or whatever).

    And no, I don't say anything about trouser length and fullness or other stuff. I go to Kotaro because I like his taste and he understands my taste and body. So I let him decide everything and IMHO everyone should work together like this with his tailor.
     

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