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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. KWang94

    KWang94 Senior Member

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    Does this mean if I start letting myself go, I'd be considered more well dressed by this crowd? :colgate:
     

  2. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    No, we give more credit to your tailor's skills
     

  3. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I can't speak for the crowd here, but if you know how to dress properly for your build you will always look good IMHO.
     

  4. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    In other words, he looks GQ smooooooooove :cloud:
     

  5. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    My tailor made on-seam pockets on my last pair of trousers. I'm not sure why, since I never asked and the half-dozen other pairs from him all have diagonal pockets (the single exception being the trousers for my DJ). I didn't really want to hassle him with it, so I thought I'd try them out. But after wearing them through this past winter and spring, I know that I prefer diagonal pockets.

    pocket.JPG

    Question: how much hassle would it be for him to change them to diagonal pockets? I have extra cloth, if that's an issue. I thought I'd ask here before I pose him the question.

    Thanks!
     

  6. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you usually have him make regular/ forward pleat trousers or is this new?
     

  7. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    Always pleated. Actually, everything the same (except of course the tuxedo trousers, even though those also had pleats).

    I suspect it is because he’s outsourcing the trousers, hence the change in pocket style.
     

  8. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Not asking if you usually get pleats, asking if you usually get regular pleats or reverse pleats. I see regular pleats in this picture and on seam pockets are generally the default style of pocket with regular pleats. Have seen exceptions but on seam is most common and always done on tuxedo trousers.
    The issue to make a quarter top pocket on these now is the convergence of the watch pocket on the waistband seam, the side straps and the top of the new pocket will be almost touching each other in one spot. Aesthetically they have a better look as they are.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2019

  9. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    Thanks for your feedback, Chris.

    I always get the same kind of pleats as in the photo (not sure if they are "forward" or "reverse"). Here is a photo of another pair of trousers, but with the slanted pocket (all other details are the same).

    pocket_2.JPG

    I agree that the issue will be the watch pocket and the side-adjuster. It seems like the alteration would be quite a hassle?
     

  10. paxonus

    paxonus Senior Member

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    Reverse pleats open toward the pockets.
     

  11. Despos

    Despos Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Thought the first picture was a regular pleat and that explains why the on seam pocket was made. On a closer look, both trousers have reverse pleats so I guess the onseam pocket is an oversight. Let the tailor know this pair has a different pocket than previous trousers and see what he wants to do. Making quarter top pockets now isn’t the worse job but not easy to do when the trouser is completed.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2019 at 7:34 PM

  12. dan'l

    dan'l Senior Member

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    ^ OK, I will ask him when we meet next month.

    Thanks for your insight, Chris.
     

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