Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[The Chai]

Cross post from black tie thread. Just received my shawl dinner jacket...my only slight concern is there’s abit of rippling at the shoulder near the collar when wearing it (can be seen in the picture on the right shoulder...slightly exaggerated as the suit valet is a larger size than I am) I never had this problem before but my tailor assures me that because it’s a one piece collar combined with the stiffness of mohair meant the shoulder canvas needs time to settle down...any thoughts

 

[dennistsang]

Some adjustments are still needed in the back, but I think it is pretty good for a first fitting.

 

[reidd]

Ok so just as an update, I ended up going for the tan linen in SB.. went into the appointment open to either and my tailor nudged me over the edge in that direction. Fitting went very well. I will post pics when I have the finished garment. Also, Napoli is awesome! Had never been before. The standard of gelato was extremely high indeed.

 

[Epicure]

Hi, first time posting on this thread (that I can remember).

I'm having a trench coat made. The pattern, just completed is shown in the photo below. I anticipate someone will chime in to object that it's not bespoke, because I'm ordering online, without fittings along the way. But since nobody local to me can make such a technical garment, vulcanized with waterproof seams, it's the closest I can get to full bespoke. All the stylistic details I've chosen myself. I hope to provide updates as they come from the company doing the job (Hancock Vulcanised Articles).

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Here's the next installment of the production story in pictures, with the coat nearing completion:

 

[EFV]

Had a first fitting for this double breasted suit in Fox summer herringbone fabric (can't remember which exactly). Changes that will be made: Decrease the shoulder extension + chest drape slightly. They will also nip the waist a bit and make the front slightly longer.

 

[classicalthunde]

Cross post from black tie thread. Just received my shawl dinner jacket...my only slight concern is there’s abit of rippling at the shoulder near the collar when wearing it (can be seen in the picture on the right shoulder...slightly exaggerated as the suit valet is a larger size than I am) I never had this problem before but my tailor assures me that because it’s a one piece collar combined with the stiffness of mohair meant the shoulder canvas needs time to settle down...any thoughts

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This looks awesome, what fabric is this? How do you describe the bottom shape of the shawl lapel is it “beveled” or just “bellied”

 

[The Chai]

It’s a midnight/dark navy super brio mohair from dormeuil. It’s a fault cloth...if you look closely you can see several white flecks which is why I bought it as I thought it looked interesting. I would say it’s more bellied than bevelled

This looks awesome, what fabric is this? How do you describe the bottom shape of the shawl lapel is it “beveled” or just “bellied”

 

[sftiger]

Wrong thread!

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

On Friday I visited Joseph Genuardi in Hoboken to order my first bespoke garments, namely a two-piece suit and an odd jacket. I've been anticipating this for years and am quite excited to wear them when the time at last comes. Mr. Genuardi was very agreeable and helpful; he dutifully and enthusiastically presented fabric choices and patiently worked with me to develop the garments. It will be a few months until they're ready, with the requisite fittings in between, but I should end up with a very handsome suit in a brilliant blue fresco and odd jacket in a very nice brown wool-mohair-silk-linen blend. (I think that was the blend, there was a lot going on in the fabric) I'm rarely comfortable with the fit of ready-to-wear clothes, I have tastes that are idiosyncratic relative to the popular median and like the idea of things that are unique works of a skilled craftsman, so I'm very grateful that circumstances have afforded me the chance to have bespoke clothes made for me, doubly so that it's by a relatively young tailor whose lineage runs through Philadelphia. If all goes well, this likely will not be the last time.

 

[classicalthunde]

On Friday I visited Joseph Genuardi in Hoboken to order my first bespoke garments, namely a two-piece suit and an odd jacket. I've been anticipating this for years and am quite excited to wear them when the time at last comes. Mr. Genuardi was very agreeable and helpful; he dutifully and enthusiastically presented fabric choices and patiently worked with me to develop the garments. It will be a few months until they're ready, with the requisite fittings in between, but I should end up with a very handsome suit in a brilliant blue fresco and odd jacket in a very nice brown wool-mohair-silk-linen blend. (I think that was the blend, there was a lot going on in the fabric) I'm rarely comfortable with the fit of ready-to-wear clothes, I have tastes that are idiosyncratic relative to the popular median and like the idea of things that are unique works of a skilled craftsman, so I'm very grateful that circumstances have afforded me the chance to have bespoke clothes made for me, doubly so that it's by a relatively young tailor whose lineage runs through Philadelphia. If all goes well, this likely will not be the last time.

I’m curious to hear sort of ****/jacket are you going for that makes it idiosycratic?

Do you happen to recall what books the fabrics were from?

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I’m curious to hear sort of ****/jacket are you going for that makes it idiosycratic?

Do you happen to recall what books the fabrics were from?

There are just a few details that I like, but are hard to find, especially in combination, in read-to-wear. The peaked lapels, for one, are less common than notched, although not unheard of, but also that I wanted a high rise and fishtail back on the trousers, not to mention a small loop above the left pocket to latch the watch chain that I keep my keys on to. The jacket will have flapless hacking pockets and a barchetta breast pocket. Maybe none of this is so odd, I don't have the depth of knowledge of breadth of context to know, but it all burbled out from mine own daft head, so it's bound not to be quite right.

The two-piece suit will be made from a Hardy & Minnis Royal Blue Fresco III and the jacket from Schofield & Smith Brown Palm Beach hopsack.

 

[Thomson]

The hopsack looks very nice. How are you going to have it made up? Lined/quarter lined?

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

The hopsack looks very nice. How are you going to have it made up? Lined/quarter lined?

I was quite taken with the brown hopsack as soon as I saw it and am particularly keen on seeing what it looks like when made into a jacket. They will be lined; partial linings offer advantages for warm weather garments, but I want to have the brilliant blue lining that I chose to reinforce the color of the Fresco fabric as I understand that it can sometimes let what's beneath bleed through and to protect the hopsack against snagging on anything on the inside, which I understand that fabric to sometimes be prone to. My guesses here might prove a little misguided, which will inform any future garments, but shouldn't be catastrophic.

 

[ter1413]

...

 

[Punt]

Teaser from tailor...