1. Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Epicure

    Epicure Senior Member

    Messages:
    490
    Likes Received:
    622
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Australia
    I'm sure they'll be forthcoming with answers to any questions you may have. At least, that has been my experience.
     

  2. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Senior Member

    Messages:
    132
    Likes Received:
    400
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2015
    Location:
    Stockholm
    A few pictures from yesterdays trunk show with Sartoria Cresent. Not that many pictures but anyways.

    Kaga9.jpg

    Second fitting for my porter & harding navy herringbone jacket.
    Kaga11.jpg

    Trying on a finished coat. Tempting.
    Kaga8.jpg
     

  3. IJReilly

    IJReilly Senior Member

    Messages:
    562
    Likes Received:
    313
    Joined:
    May 12, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    I had hoped to swing by the trunk show, but fate was not kind to me. I’ll catch them next time.
     

  4. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,410
    Likes Received:
    1,023
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2014
    I really like the overcoat fabric and while typically I'm not a fan, that Houndstooth looks lovely. Thanks for sharing the pictures, I hope your fitting went well.
     

  5. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

    Messages:
    223
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2010
    Guys I am headed to Napoli tomorrow and can't decide what I need. What's next for my wardrobe?

    Current bespoke wardrobe:
    Summer:
    Navy Minnis Fresco BlazerSuit SB
    Mid grey Crispaire trousers
    Charcoal Minnis Fresco suit SB

    Winter:
    Brown/Green tweed jacket SB
    Mid grey cavalry twill trousers

    Obviously I have less for winter but plan on making another commission later this summer to fill a hole there (heavy navy blazer). For that reason I am leaning toward another summer item since I want to be able to wear right away. I am also dying to go for something DB. I am leaning toward tan linen suit since I'll be able to wear both item separately also...Too loud to go tan linen AND DB in the same piece?
     

  6. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,410
    Likes Received:
    1,023
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2014
    I am not very heat tolerant, so the idea of doing a summer jacket double breasted is a non-starter for me. I would go SB in the tan Fresco, or perhaps think about a shade off navy or brighter blue to bring some color to your wardrobe. 510253/4 are nice colors as is 510263, the brown color. Just my thoughts. Good luck with your order.
     

  7. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

    Messages:
    223
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2010
    Thanks. I do like brown/tan frescos as well but feel like something a little different since I already have a couple frescos as is. I also have a bright-ish navy cashmere hopsack cloth which is kind of mid weight that I might have made up as transitional season blazer. To be honest, the blazer suit is much less ideal as a blazer than I thought it would be. Just feels much more suity than I though it would and I'm worried the browns would be similar. To me the linen seems easier to split up.
     

  8. classicalthunde

    classicalthunde Senior Member

    Messages:
    219
    Likes Received:
    59
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Philly
    I love this picture of Joe Hemrajani in a H&S tobacco linen 6x1 DB suit. Its loud and I'm sure not everyone could pull it off, but it also stops short of being too costume-y. I think it would break up into a sport coat pretty well for some off-white trousers

    linen db.jpg
     

  9. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

    Messages:
    223
    Likes Received:
    111
    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2010
    I think so too. This is the exact cloth I have: http://www.dugdalebros.com/Plain/product/6505-mid-fawn-plain/colour/mid_fawn_plain/page/214/

    Ultimately went for that over the tobacco because it's less saturated and therefore much more subdued which I think will translate to more wearability (especially as separates). I am worried about it getting dirty quite easily though.
     

  10. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    4,517
    Likes Received:
    2,744
    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2013
    Though certainly uncommon, I don't find this costumey at all. That said, I would never wear it as an odd jacket.
     

  11. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior Member

    Messages:
    860
    Likes Received:
    88
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    I don’t think double breasted suits necessarily wear hotter than single breasted suits. It depends on the cut. A less structured DB will be fine - for me, anyway. And I don’t think a DB tan linen suit will be any louder than a SB in the same cloth.
     

  12. bdavro23

    bdavro23 Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,410
    Likes Received:
    1,023
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2014
    All else being equal, a DB will definitely wear hotter than a SB. One, its always buttoned (or supposed to be), so there is less air circulating through the midsection. And two, there is simply more fabric. Whether or not it affects the individual is certainly a valid question.
     

  13. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior Member

    Messages:
    860
    Likes Received:
    88
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    I know that’s the prevailing theory and logically it makes sense but I haven’t found this to be the case with me, at least in any way that’s noticeable. Maybe I’m not sensitive enough to it. I typically keep my SB jackets buttoned anyway. I think the material used and how closely cut the jacket is play a much bigger role. I wouldn’t let this issue keep me from commissioning a DB linen suit.
     

  14. classicalthunde

    classicalthunde Senior Member

    Messages:
    219
    Likes Received:
    59
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2016
    Location:
    Philly
    Pardon, didn't mean to imply costume-y vs. too costume-y, poor choice of words on my part.

    Every now and then when I want something loud I always lean into it and then find that aside from a very particular scenario that it is not possible to pull off in a normal situation without looking like a character (e.g. my thrifted seersucker jacket that I can pretty much only wear to the Belmont Stakes). What I meant to convey was I think that Hemrajani's DB tobacco linen suit would not fall into this trap and I could see it being used in a ton of different situations without looking out of place.

    One of these days I want to get a Neapolitan-style suit done up in this cloth for summer weddings and events, but gotta knock out a few essentials first
     

  15. JJ Katz

    JJ Katz Senior Member

    Messages:
    202
    Likes Received:
    124
    Joined:
    May 31, 2018
    Location:
    London
    A suggestion re. the OP:

    Why not go for a nice tobacco linen SB suit band keep the DB idea for the winter order? (maybe in a flannel chalk-stripe?)
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies, our Privacy Policy, and Terms and Conditions.