Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ericgereghty]

The Armoury website has Ring Jacket MTM starting at $2800, I'll look into the other two I'm not too familiar (what does B&T stand for?). Like I said earlier, its more of a curiosity than anything else...I'd love to be able to pull off a loud, unstructured Neapolitan/Florentine sport coat, but don't think I will anytime in the near future (need to rebuild the staples first).

I'm located in Jersey outside of Philly, so NYC is pretty painless to get to...

B&Tailor. They have bespoke and MTM trunk shows in NYC. I really like Ring, but that's kind of insane for MTM, especially given how wide ranging their RTW fits tend to be.

 

[classicalthunde]

B&Tailor. They have bespoke and MTM trunk shows in NYC. I really like Ring, but that's kind of insane for MTM, especially given how wide ranging their RTW fits tend to be.

agreed, for what would probably be ~$3K I might was well save a bit more and do bespoke...and that seems like a lot (both $$ and hassle wise) for fun niche piece that I don't really need

 

[ericgereghty]

agreed, for what would probably be ~$3K I might was well save a bit more and do bespoke...and that seems like a lot (both $$ and hassle wise) for fun niche piece that I don't really need

That said, I'd consider Ring's RTW IF you can fit it reasonably well. The Armoury's 3 cut is fantastic, and they tend to have pretty interesting seasonal pieces.

 

[jonathanS]

The Armoury website has Ring Jacket MTM starting at $2800, I'll look into the other two I'm not too familiar (what does B&T stand for?). Like I said earlier, its more of a curiosity than anything else...I'd love to be able to pull off a loud, unstructured Neapolitan/Florentine sport coat, but don't think I will anytime in the near future (need to rebuild the staples first).

I'm located in Jersey outside of Philly, so NYC is pretty painless to get to...

I didn't realize The Armoury was that expensive.

Start with the staples - buy the best you can afford.

 

[classicalthunde]

thanks, shall do

on a side note, has anybody had any personal experience with Whitcomb and Shaftesbury classic bespoke pieces (cut in london, assembled in india, alterations in london)? I know Simon Crompton has written about them as a quality value bespoke, but was curious if anyone here has had any personal experience...

 

[taxgenius]

B&Tailor. They have bespoke and MTM trunk shows in NYC. I really like Ring, but that's kind of insane for MTM, especially given how wide ranging their RTW fits tend to be.

$2300 plus cost of fabric last time I asked.

 

[brax]

4x2 with patch pockets or 6x2 with single flap.

I went for the former. 4X2 with patch pockets. Almost went for a 4X1 with buttoning at the bottom button but shied away and am doing the conventional buttoning at the top button.

 

[lordsuperb]

I went for the former. 4X2 with patch pockets. Almost went for a 4X1 with buttoning at the bottom button but shied away and am doing the conventional buttoning at the top button.

I like it, what shoulder style did you choose?

The more I wear those Italian jackets the less I like spalla camicia.

 

[brax]

I like it, what shoulder style did you choose?

The more I wear those Italian jackets the less I like spalla camicia.

I’ve used Tofani for my summer stuff (except for an overcoat that I commissioned early on). And all of my summer casual stuff (fresco, linen, odd jackets) have spalla camicia and I really like it. My “going to court” stuff (as a lawyer not a defendant) has con rollino shoulders. That’s basically my Rangoon stuff.

When we talked back in November about the flannel commissions, we were going to stay with spalla camicia. But at the fitting on Tuesday, Davide recommended that we switch. He didn’t like how it draped. He said he’d either go with a natural shoulder or a Tofani shoulders which he describes as between natural and con rollino. It will be his call depending on his feel as he makes it. It will also be my only jacket from him with just a touch of padding. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I’m going with the “trust your tailor” adage.

 

[aristoi bcn]

I’ve used Tofani for my summer stuff (except for an overcoat that I commissioned early on). And all of my summer casual stuff (fresco, linen, odd jackets) have spalla camicia and I really like it. My “going to court” stuff (as a lawyer not a defendant) has con rollino shoulders. That’s basically my Rangoon stuff.

When we talked back in November about the flannel commissions, we were going to stay with spalla camicia. But at the fitting on Tuesday, Davide recommended that we switch. He didn’t like how it draped. He said he’d either go with a natural shoulder or a Tofani shoulders which he describes as between natural and con rollino. It will be his call depending on his feel as he makes it. It will also be my only jacket from him with just a touch of padding. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I’m going with the “trust your tailor” adage.

It would be interesting to see detailed pictures of that shoulder, though the main differences in shoulder construction are things that are not be seen but felt.

I have examples of three shoulders from my tailor (Iorio) and the differences are not only in construction but in the cut of the sleeve. The spalla camicia examples do not have any padding nor wadding while the natural shoulder have a slight padding and very little wadding, very approppriate for all kind of suits or formal jackets. The one jacket I have with structured shoulder have a substantial padding and wadding (forming the rollino) but also the cut of the sleeve is much more tappered than those from the jackets with softer construction. I will not order more jackets with this construction because the comfort is reduced a lot, not only given the narrower sleeve but the reduced ease of movement caused by the additional material of the shoulder.

I will try to take detailed pictures of the three examples so you can see it.

 

[lordsuperb]

I’ve used Tofani for my summer stuff (except for an overcoat that I commissioned early on). And all of my summer casual stuff (fresco, linen, odd jackets) have spalla camicia and I really like it. My “going to court” stuff (as a lawyer not a defendant) has con rollino shoulders. That’s basically my Rangoon stuff.

When we talked back in November about the flannel commissions, we were going to stay with spalla camicia. But at the fitting on Tuesday, Davide recommended that we switch. He didn’t like how it draped. He said he’d either go with a natural shoulder or a Tofani shoulders which he describes as between natural and con rollino. It will be his call depending on his feel as he makes it. It will also be my only jacket from him with just a touch of padding. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I’m going with the “trust your tailor” adage.

I only like the spalla camicia for the summery fabrics (linen and wsl). Everything else should have a normal sleeve head in my opinion. My LL City Gunclub is a fun jacket to wear for sure but the more i look at the shoulders from the side the more I tend to think a normal sleeve head should be used for heartier fabrics.

It would be interesting to see detailed pictures of that shoulder, though the main differences in shoulder construction are things that are not be seen but felt.

I have examples of three shoulders from my tailor (Iorio) and the differences are not only in construction but in the cut of the sleeve. The spalla camicia examples do not have any padding nor wadding while the natural shoulder have a slight padding and very little wadding, very approppriate for all kind of suits or formal jackets. The one jacket I have with structured shoulder have a substantial padding and wadding (forming the rollino) but also the cut of the sleeve is much more tappered than those from the jackets with softer construction. I will not order more jackets with this construction because the comfort is reduced a lot, not only given the narrower sleeve but the reduced ease of movement caused by the additional material of the shoulder.

I will try to take detailed pictures of the three examples so you can see it.

I guess I've never paid attention to how comfortable a jacket wears on my shoulders. I have always relegated the comfort of my jackets to the buttoning point and my back (middle and back of sleeves). My jackets from Edwin and Formosa or super comfortable and can be worn buttoned without any discomfort even when I sit. My suits from Paul Stuart must be unbuttoned when I sit and the buttoning point feels restrictive even when i stand (no I did not gain weight.)

 

[brax]

I like and will continue to get spalla camicia for all of my non-court suits for summer. Based on Tofani's recommendations thus far, I doubt that too many winter garments will have it. None of my Despos stuff have spalla camicia. Here's a shot of my only Tofani winter piece's shoulder (overcoat). We never discussed shoulder treatment on the overcoat. My guess is that the flannel suit will look similar. Looks like a pretty natural shoulder to me.

 

[brax]

Looking forward to seeing Aristoi's three shoulder treatments. Once I get my summer stuff back, I'll take a closer look at the Tofani spalla camicia treatment and its con rollino treatment.

 

[Thomson]

who does quality MTM work with a reliable track record in Neapolitan/softer style sub $2K?

I use Caruso. Lots of styles, including shirt sleeve shoulder, which is what I get from them. For about 1600 of your hard earned Euros. Not sure if available in the US though.

 

[NycLondon]

or the most ........?
seriously chaps, I spend $350 on something that I simply cannot get into, utterly pathetic.

So I finally started to wear these gloves. After 3 or 4 days the stitching started to come unraveled .... oh the irony! Neither maker or shop (Armory) would take any responsibility for this mess.