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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Fraussie

    Fraussie Senior Member

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    Thank you - I guess what I was concerned about is that perpaps the collar would not fit as well around my next as if it were attached by hand. Really hate collar gaps on jackets.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018 at 4:29 AM

  2. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Well-Known Member

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    This can be the case with a collar that is machined rather than hand placed. When attaching a collar by hand the maker has control over where the fullness is applied. This is important as it “snugs” the collar up to the neck. A machine does not provide the operator to have said control.
     

  3. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

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  4. reidd

    reidd Senior Member

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    I would say that if collar gap is a real pet peeve of yours, I would not skimp out on a hand attached collar.
     

  5. Texasmade

    Texasmade Distinguished Member

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    Or know the difference...
     

  6. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    I get collar gapage from collars padded by hand and collars that are machine padded stay glued to my neck :(.
     

  7. ericjens7

    ericjens7 Well-Known Member

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    It’s not the hand padding that ensures the lack of a gap. In fact it has little to do with it. I was talking about when the collar is attached to the coat itself. There are reasons beyond the hand padding and the putting on of the collar that can attribute to a gap. Mostly regarding the cut of the coat in relation to your shoulders.
     

  8. driving glove

    driving glove Well-Known Member

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  9. driving glove

    driving glove Well-Known Member

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    Last post in error! Simply meant to second the comment regarding lack of collar gap in a well-fitting coat. Had this positive experience recently when had final fitting of my first odd jacket with Chris Despos. He is every bit as good as I was led to believe, and a delightful man in addition.
     

  10. SuMisura_YEG

    SuMisura_YEG New Member

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    MVIMG_20181112_211615.jpg IMG_20181112_211633.jpg IMG_20181112_211715.jpg
    Hi All,

    New bespoke suit I am working on.
    We will be bringing in the shoulders 0.5" & removing an additional 0.5" of excess fabric from the front chest area on each side.

    Let me know your thoughts.

    Regards,
    Akith
     

  11. jdp234

    jdp234 Senior Member

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  12. SuMisura_YEG

    SuMisura_YEG New Member

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    Is that good or bad LOL
     

  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    It's a bad thing as in it won't be comfortable to wear. You'll have to be on your best behavior weight wise because if you gain even a little weight the suit wont fit right.

    The back/waist is too tight and needs to be let out. You will get maybe one to two season's of wear out of this suit.
     

  14. jdp234

    jdp234 Senior Member

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    Depends on whether the buyer wants to look like a sausage or not, I suppose.

    Looking at those pictures, "make the torso tighter" would not be my first thought.
     

  15. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    :bored: I'd leave the shoulders and chest alone. You'll lose the athletic V-shape.
     

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