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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. zr3rs

    zr3rs Senior Member

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    I tend to agree somewhat, but we have to keep in mind that without sleeves properly attached, the front view massively overemphasizes the upper breast width. Slightly less waist suppression might do the trick.
     


  2. suffolk

    suffolk Member

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    I think Jonathan's white linen suit has the potential to be awesome. I'm following it with interest, I'd thought about a similar jacket - the least formal dinner jacket possible. It could be dressed up with a proper shirt, bow tie, black dinner jacket trousers and patent shoes. It could be dressed down with a v-neck T-shirt, jeans and espadrilles for a dinner out on holiday in the sun.
     


  3. suffolk

    suffolk Member

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  4. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, forgot the follow up. Here's the finished jacket.
    image.jpeg


    Notes from The maker Fernando:
    "
    The jacket is made of London Cloth Co. artisanal loomed in early XX century machines that friend Daniel Harrys himself restore, British wool Donegal.
    The interior linen is made of light olive green 100% cotton poplin that I found in an old store fabric store in Madrid near plaza Mayor and black silk satin in the sleeves for better wearing.
    All leather details are made from my friend Genaro´s leather, who’s making cow leather in an old way with manual methods and vegetal tan.
    http://www.elcurtidorartesano.com
    a nice freak.
    "

    Details:
    image.png image.png
     


  5. Purplelabel

    Purplelabel Distinguished Member

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    It took me a minute to realise that you're not carrying a bag, but a dog.
     


  6. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    New suit in the making, here's the toile fitting. Will be a dark green (yes, my favourite colour) fresco suit. Via Götrich:

    image.jpeg
     


  7. S K M

    S K M Senior Member

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    A few photos from today's sartorial adventures: a fitting of LL linen jacket (trousers to come later) from Paone, and second a jacket in Fresco Lite from Biagio Granata (will have the pants fitted at Cerrato tomorrow). The Fresco jacket required a few tweaks (i.a. more room in the back) and Biagio kindly offered to to it while I was waiting; the jacket was ripped completely apart, and one hour later we were ready for a second fitting. Great.

    IMG_2017.JPG IMG_2014.JPG IMG_2019.JPG IMG_2021.JPG IMG_2029.JPG
     


  8. brax

    brax Senior Member

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    Gotta agree with the guys on this. This suit/color does not flatter you. A linen suit is a very casual suit so I'd go with something more relaxed. The Duke and the other gentleman are wearing their cream suits very well.
     


  9. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    Now this, this I like :cheers:
     


  10. Fraussie

    Fraussie Well-Known Member

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    Hi guys

    I'm about to launch 2 new bespoke projects:

    - navy/blue blazer - 395g Dormeuil wool/linen/silk sharkskin

    - dark blue 14/15oz Fresco suit

    They will both be single breasted, 3 roll 2, fully lined and with reasonably wide lapels. I'm keen to get your views on how I should style those garments eg. pockets, shoulders, etc.

    I want the blazer to be appropriate for work but also to be worn casually. It's my first "real" blazer. I have an OTR Boggi hopesack blazer but it's not really appropriate for work and very much a summer jacket - unlined, no canvas, spalla camicia, short.

    The suit should be tailored for work but I wouldn't mind being able to wear the jacket and pants separately.

    I've got an average build - not tall, not short, slim, athletic but without big shoulders if that's realistic.

    I'm new to bespoke so my wardrobe is pretty limited. I've got a grey SpringRam blazersuit (SB, patch pockets, fully lined, 3 roll 2, reasonably structured shoulders, dark horn buttons, kissing buttons, one pleat/cuffed trousers) and a blue Finmeresco 4 ply suit (SB, flap pockets, ticket pocket, fully lined, 2 buttons, spalla camicia, flat front/no cuffs trousers, brown horn buttons, kissing buttons)
     


  11. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    A few pictures from my appointment today with Steven Hitchcock, in San Francisco:
    IMG_0150.jpg IMG_0148.jpg IMG_0145.jpg

    Ignore the trouser length. They're cut for braces but I wasn't wearing braces for the fitting, so they tended to slip down. It's a three piece suit, obviously, single-breasted jacket and double-breasted waistcoat. The trousers have double forward pleats. The cloth is a London Lounge "flannel" (it's not a very flannel-y flannel) in a RAF Blue Prince of Wales check pattern. Steven made a few tweaks and we should be good to go to finish.
     


  12. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    do you have pics of the sharkskin? that's generally not a sport coat style.
     


  13. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    Looks good! Steven did a great job. Nice guy too.
     


  14. Fonz4

    Fonz4 Active Member

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    before starting the blazer take a look to H&S Crystal Spring 2018 bunch. They now offer a great hopsack in W/S/L very good to be dressed up and down.

    http://apparel.hollandandsherry.com...-by-season/spring-summer-2018/crystal-springs
     


  15. Fraussie

    Fraussie Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys but I've got the cloth so I'm gonna use it. Blazers don't need to be hopsacks and don't need to follow the rules of other SC s ie bold pattern and/or unique texture.

    I got inspired by a jacket I tried on in Tokyo - Stile Latino w VBC super 120s. My Dormeuil cloth has an beautiful texture due to the wool/linen/silk blend and it's heavy so has great drape.

    71DCA4C3-6B23-44B2-95EA-F11C4E0E2444.jpeg
     


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