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Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    I’ll provide examples in the morning.
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Distinguished Member

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  4. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    How old is your tailor? I want to give him a go when I go back to Spain.
     


  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    Skirt Flare vs Cupped...... know the difference when choosing a tailor :(.


    Skirt Flare

    Classic_Savile_Row_suit_Bespoke_from_Malcolm_Plews.jpg


    Huntsman-Journal-Introducing-Ready-to-Wear-SS17-Header-Image.jpg

    vs.

    Cupped

    tbd-4306.jpg
     


  6. wigglr

    wigglr Distinguished Member

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  7. Andres 13

    Andres 13 Well-Known Member

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    Hi lordsuperb. My tailor is 38 years old and his father is 70 years old. They work together.
     


  8. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    I will check later. I suspect it’s cupped. But I will check. Photos indicated flared. But it might be a function of my natural body which is broader in the chest, narrower in the waist and broader in the hips. But I’ll check for sure later.

    I’ve worked with Will on alterations since I moved to DC in 2014 (3.5 years ago). However, I do enjoy trying different tailors. I prefer Italians for my sportscoats, as opposed to british for suits, as a general rule. For altering off the peg, he’s the go to & by far the best in DC. For Bespoke, I plan to work with him in the future, along with others.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2017


  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Distinguished Member

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    Flared is his default.
     


  10. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior Member

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    Then it’s flared. I just asked him for straight house style. I haven’t had a chance to check. But photos appear flared. I’m not sure which is better.
     


  11. taffy

    taffy Active Member

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  12. maxalex

    maxalex Senior Member

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    VAT or IVA as it’s called in Italy is required by law to be included in the quoted price of any merchandise or service. If you pay with a credit card you will get a fiscale which is the official tax receipt, and the VAT will be paid to the state. If you hold a non-EU passport (and have it with you in the store) you can ask the merchant if they participate in a VAT refund program; they are not obligated but most higher end merchants do.

    If you pay in Italy and other EU countries with cash, some smaller merchants may quote you a cheaper price, theoretically based on the fact that they are avoiding card transaction fees—with the proviso that there will be no VAT refund either. Rarely will they come out and say they aren’t forwarding the VAT—that would be admitting a serious crime to you, a stranger who could well be a tax inspector—but it’s possible you won’t get a fiscale, so go figure. If the price seems reasonable, to me that falls under the category of Whatever.

    Finally, if you buy something in Italy and have it shipped to a non-EU country, there is absolutely no VAT, and any merchant who claims he can’t deal with that is ripping you off.[/QUOTE]
     


  13. taffy

    taffy Active Member

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    Canvas for concave shoulder. No one does this these days, most tailors have a simpler method producing relatively flat shoulders. I learnt it from an italian master tailor, this method requires a lot of ironwork and shaping. Note the grain line on the wool canvas...

    20171221_161150.jpg

    20171221_161016.jpg

    20171221_161303.jpg
     


  14. malabar

    malabar Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone have experience commissioning a bespoke tweed 3-button hacking jacket from a UK or European tailor that visits the US? What was your experience and how did the jacket turn out?
     


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