Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[potter AB]

London last week.

A last fitting in bad light of a summer's combo at G&H ...

Cloth:
Drapers 30121 dark red hopsack 280 g (Montecarlo Bunch)
Drapers 18064 greyish brown trousers 480 g (Ascot Bunch)

And a first fitting of a Shetland tweed at C&M...




Cloth: Lovat Holm ref. 711 (390 g)

 

[clee1982]

Looks great!

 

[mktitsworth]

London last week.

A last fitting in bad light of a summer's combo at G&H ...
View attachment 2333409 View attachment 2333413

Cloth:
Drapers 30121 dark red hopsack 280 g (Montecarlo Bunch)
Drapers 18064 greyish brown trousers 480 g (Ascot Bunch)

And a first fitting of a Shetland tweed at C&M...

View attachment 2333415
View attachment 2333417

Cloth: Lovat Holm ref. 711 (390 g)

I have a length of that exact Lovat Holm cloth I'm thinking about for a F/W jacket. Good to see that it makes up well.

 

[clee1982]

London last week.

A last fitting in bad light of a summer's combo at G&H ...
View attachment 2333409 View attachment 2333413

Cloth:
Drapers 30121 dark red hopsack 280 g (Montecarlo Bunch)
Drapers 18064 greyish brown trousers 480 g (Ascot Bunch)

And a first fitting of a Shetland tweed at C&M...

View attachment 2333415
View attachment 2333417

Cloth: Lovat Holm ref. 711 (390 g)

By the way is CM longer and button point higher?

 

[tdang]

New tailor alert.

Thought that my British-style Japanese tailor was going to be Archie’s or F.H., but in the end I decided to go with Koichi Sugimoto. Partly out of convenience (he’s located in Minamiaoyama about 10 mins away from Akasaka where I stay most of the time when I’m in Tokyo), but mostly because, well, he makes a hell of a jacket.

Sugimoto-san aims to achieve the British silhouette of nipped waist and stronger shoulder lines with minimal structure. That’s why he favors cloths that are more robust - sort of reminds me of Panico. The result is a jacket that looks decidedly more structured than its Italian counterpart but pairs equally well with denim.

Here’s a couple of other things at the atelier.

I went with this (presumably deadstock) Johnstons cloth. 6x2 DB.

Close up of the fabric - a base of light brown and black with checks in beige, burgundy and pink.

 

[JHWilliams]

Thank you for justifying my choice of them.

The buttons are a great contrast to the lighter cloth. Worn with a dark tie, this will be a winner.

 

[oldworldelegance]

First and second fitting of a DB suit in Fox's Original Authentic flannel in char-navy. Although I'm rarely too warm, I was worried about the weight as the cloth is 19/20oz (530/560g). Fortunately, it feels much lighter than I expected, perhaps due to its density. It drapes beautifully. The char-navy is a sort of blueish charcoal (difficult to capture in pictures, the 2nd one is closest).

 

[tdang]

A very productive fitting session.

My first ever bespoke shirts (from a shirtmaker). The blousy fit and voluminous arms that taper into tight cuffs are intentional. Very happy with the result. The fit will really set in once washed. No need to comment on the handwork, because it is in all the places that are expected and made to a fineness that is expected.

Jacket in this wild Loro Piana cloth was delivered. A stunner, and turns out to be more wearable than I thought.

Fitted these puppies. A heavy linen from Anglo Italian and the lambswool Permanent Style plaid - the first one that I’ve seen made in a 4x1 DB configuration.

The plaid jacket will probably be enlarged a touch to comfortably fit a sweater underneath.

The navy linen one should be finished by the next appointment. I’ve learnt that there’s definitely room for both a worsted navy blazer and a seasonal one (or a couple …). The linen one has a completely different feel because of the matte texture and the “bounciness” of the cloth.

My next order is an outfit, partly because the jacket on its own is tricky to pair trousers with. Light blue cashmere/ cotton/ silk from the LP Mare book (left), to be worn with a H&S denim-like midweight wool (right).

Next shirt orders: a quartet of lilac end-on-end, green/ beige/ blue check, dark blue reverse stripe and (not pictured) cream tattersall.

Missed my favorite MBT this time because he was under the weather. Will post updates if we’re able to link up on this trip.

For now, I’m looking forward to my meeting with Kotaro tomorrow.

 

[Sreezy36]

A very productive fitting session.

My first ever bespoke shirts (from a shirtmaker). The blousy fit and voluminous arms that taper into tight cuffs are intentional. Very happy with the result. The fit will really set in once washed. No need to comment on the handwork, because it is in all the places that are expected and made to a fineness that is expected.

View attachment 2334019

Jacket in this wild Loro Piana cloth was delivered. A stunner, and turns out to be more wearable than I thought.

View attachment 2334025

Fitted these puppies. A heavy linen from Anglo Italian and the lambswool Permanent Style plaid - the first one that I’ve seen made in a 4x1 DB configuration.

View attachment 2334029

View attachment 2334031

The plaid jacket will probably be enlarged a touch to comfortably fit a sweater underneath.

The navy linen one should be finished by the next appointment. I’ve learnt that there’s definitely room for both a worsted navy blazer and a seasonal one (or a couple …). The linen one has a completely different feel because of the matte texture and the “bounciness” of the cloth.

My next order is an outfit, partly because the jacket on its own is tricky to pair trousers with. Light blue cashmere/ cotton/ silk from the LP Mare book (left), to be worn with a H&S denim-like midweight wool (right).

View attachment 2334033

Next shirt orders: a quartet of lilac end-on-end, green/ beige/ blue check, dark blue reverse stripe and (not pictured) cream tattersall.

View attachment 2334035

View attachment 2334037

Missed my favorite MBT this time because he was under the weather. Will post updates if we’re able to link up on this trip.

For now, I’m looking forward to my meeting with Kotaro tomorrow.

Your bespoke dress shirt looks extremely comfortable. Will work perfectly under a jacket without any restricted movement.

 

[OldschoolCut]

Who is this shirtmaker?

Thank you for sharing your experiences with tailoring houses in Japan, please keep them coming!

 

[tdang]

Who is this shirtmaker?

Thank you for sharing your experiences with tailoring houses in Japan, please keep them coming!

A young man named Atsuki Nakamura, based in Osaka. He makes a relaxed dress shirt but not in a vintage Brooks Brothers kind of way (nothing wrong with that, of course).

 

[diodati]

New tailor alert.

View attachment 2333917

Thought that my British-style Japanese tailor was going to be Archie’s or F.H., but in the end I decided to go with Koichi Sugimoto. Partly out of convenience (he’s located in Minamiaoyama about 10 mins away from Akasaka where I stay most of the time when I’m in Tokyo), but mostly because, well, he makes a hell of a jacket.

View attachment 2333919

Sugimoto-san aims to achieve the British silhouette of nipped waist and stronger shoulder lines with minimal structure. That’s why he favors cloths that are more robust - sort of reminds me of Panico. The result is a jacket that looks decidedly more structured than its Italian counterpart but pairs equally well with denim.

Here’s a couple of other things at the atelier.
View attachment 2333921

View attachment 2333923

View attachment 2333925

I went with this (presumably deadstock) Johnstons cloth. 6x2 DB.

View attachment 2333927

Close up of the fabric - a base of light brown and black with checks in beige, burgundy and pink.

View attachment 2333929

Makes sense for me. Fewer tourists this time of year.

Oh shucks okay I’ll cave to some peer pressure….. my quest to become a one man trunk show like @tdang continues. Here’s my recent visit to Napoli.

First up,


This is a fox air fabric, double breasted navy suit. I originally had the trousers for the suit made in the event that I couldn’t get the trousers satoki-san had made for his suit. So, when I got those trousers back, it only made sense to have another jacket made to have 2 navy suits in fox air fabric (a fabric I’m quite fond of).



Next up, is a much more blue Neapolitan blue db suit. It is in drapers ascot. A few years ago, I had a suit made by Dalcuore in this fabric. It was a disaster from the start: the trousers never fit (so I had them remade) and the jacket was never a good fit (and I am having the jacket remade)

One thing I like about this tailor is the shape of the lapel. especially for a Neapolitan, it’s quite distinctive and quite nice.



Next step is the Loro piano Searsucker wool silk blend made as a single breasted suit I have flirted with the idea of a double breasted suit, but I decided against that because I thought single breasted was a lot more classic. This was made up as a first fitting




Fourth Carlo Barbara Mock Leno / hopsack / basketweave type jacket made up as single breasted. This was also made up as a first fitting




Finally, there’s this fabric. A wool & mohair blend solaro fabric from standeven. Needless to say, it was not made up. Apparently one man cannot handle my volume…..

So, the question is, do I forge ahead and try someone new?

Please excuse the borders on each photo -when I try to upload it says the photos are too big. So I need to take a screenshot of the photos to upload.

 

[Texasmade]

Jacket in this wild Loro Piana cloth was delivered. A stunner, and turns out to be more wearable than I thought.

View attachment 2334025

Love this jacket. Pattern and color are cool AF.

 

[clee1982]

A young man named Atsuki Nakamura, based in Osaka. He makes a relaxed dress shirt but not in a vintage Brooks Brothers kind of way (nothing wrong with that, of course).

What do you specifically look in a relax fit shirt by the way? Relax but not sloppy (so aesthetic maybe?)

 

[tdang]

What do you specifically look in a relax fit shirt by the way? Relax but not sloppy (so aesthetic maybe?)

Obviously it’ll be comfortable, but I like how the fullness is distributed.

I wear a lot of jeans which typically are mid-rise, and have found that a more easy-fitting, tubular shape on the top looks good with that kind of trousers. But if the shirt is too baggy, or the bagginess is not engineered a certain way, I just look like I’m wearing something 3 sizes too big.

(It’s a different story with high-rise trousers that go up to the belly button though - slimmer shirts look more proportionate in this case imo.)

Also, I have rather pronounced back and blades, and a relaxed shirt helps divert attention from that: