potter AB
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- Joined
- Mar 19, 2008
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We would like to welcome Styleforum's newest Affiliate VendorManning Company Bespoke Tailors!
Since 1979, this Hong Kong-based tailor has crafted exquisite bespoke menswear and womenswear. Serving clients worldwide, they host trunk shows across the US, Europe, and Australia, offering personalized consultations. Clients can bring their favorite garments or style inspirations—from business formal attire and wedding ensembles to casual wear—to recreate their favorite pieces. Visit the Official Affiliate Vendor Thread here and give them a warm Styleforum welcome.
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I have a length of that exact Lovat Holm cloth I'm thinking about for a F/W jacket. Good to see that it makes up well.London last week.
A last fitting in bad light of a summer's combo at G&H ...
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Cloth:
Drapers 30121 dark red hopsack 280 g (Montecarlo Bunch)
Drapers 18064 greyish brown trousers 480 g (Ascot Bunch)
And a first fitting of a Shetland tweed at C&M...
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Cloth: Lovat Holm ref. 711 (390 g)
London last week.
A last fitting in bad light of a summer's combo at G&H ...
View attachment 2333409 View attachment 2333413
Cloth:
Drapers 30121 dark red hopsack 280 g (Montecarlo Bunch)
Drapers 18064 greyish brown trousers 480 g (Ascot Bunch)
And a first fitting of a Shetland tweed at C&M...
View attachment 2333415
View attachment 2333417
Cloth: Lovat Holm ref. 711 (390 g)
The buttons are a great contrast to the lighter cloth. Worn with a dark tie, this will be a winner.Thank you for justifying my choice of them.
A very productive fitting session.
My first ever bespoke shirts (from a shirtmaker). The blousy fit and voluminous arms that taper into tight cuffs are intentional. Very happy with the result. The fit will really set in once washed. No need to comment on the handwork, because it is in all the places that are expected and made to a fineness that is expected.
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Jacket in this wild Loro Piana cloth was delivered. A stunner, and turns out to be more wearable than I thought.
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Fitted these puppies. A heavy linen from Anglo Italian and the lambswool Permanent Style plaid - the first one that I’ve seen made in a 4x1 DB configuration.
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The plaid jacket will probably be enlarged a touch to comfortably fit a sweater underneath.
The navy linen one should be finished by the next appointment. I’ve learnt that there’s definitely room for both a worsted navy blazer and a seasonal one (or a couple …). The linen one has a completely different feel because of the matte texture and the “bounciness” of the cloth.
My next order is an outfit, partly because the jacket on its own is tricky to pair trousers with. Light blue cashmere/ cotton/ silk from the LP Mare book (left), to be worn with a H&S denim-like midweight wool (right).
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Next shirt orders: a quartet of lilac end-on-end, green/ beige/ blue check, dark blue reverse stripe and (not pictured) cream tattersall.
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Missed my favorite MBT this time because he was under the weather. Will post updates if we’re able to link up on this trip.
For now, I’m looking forward to my meeting with Kotaro tomorrow.
A young man named Atsuki Nakamura, based in Osaka. He makes a relaxed dress shirt but not in a vintage Brooks Brothers kind of way (nothing wrong with that, of course).Who is this shirtmaker?
Thank you for sharing your experiences with tailoring houses in Japan, please keep them coming!
New tailor alert.
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Thought that my British-style Japanese tailor was going to be Archie’s or F.H., but in the end I decided to go with Koichi Sugimoto. Partly out of convenience (he’s located in Minamiaoyama about 10 mins away from Akasaka where I stay most of the time when I’m in Tokyo), but mostly because, well, he makes a hell of a jacket.
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Sugimoto-san aims to achieve the British silhouette of nipped waist and stronger shoulder lines with minimal structure. That’s why he favors cloths that are more robust - sort of reminds me of Panico. The result is a jacket that looks decidedly more structured than its Italian counterpart but pairs equally well with denim.
Here’s a couple of other things at the atelier.
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I went with this (presumably deadstock) Johnstons cloth. 6x2 DB.
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Close up of the fabric - a base of light brown and black with checks in beige, burgundy and pink.
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Oh shucks okay I’ll cave to some peer pressure….. my quest to become a one man trunk show like @tdang continues. Here’s my recent visit to Napoli.Makes sense for me. Fewer tourists this time of year.
Love this jacket. Pattern and color are cool AF.Jacket in this wild Loro Piana cloth was delivered. A stunner, and turns out to be more wearable than I thought.
View attachment 2334025
A young man named Atsuki Nakamura, based in Osaka. He makes a relaxed dress shirt but not in a vintage Brooks Brothers kind of way (nothing wrong with that, of course).
What do you specifically look in a relax fit shirt by the way? Relax but not sloppy (so aesthetic maybe?)