Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[DorianGreen]

First commission from Pastena. Little adjustments here and there necessary. Apart from that, quite happy with the outcome.

Fabrics are a Fox tweed in slate brown and mid grey flannels. Unfortunately, they do not go as great together as I hoped from the pictures on the homepage.

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For the next commission I am thinking about lowering the buttoning point 1 cm, extending the shoulders a touch and maybe reducing the shoulder pads.

It looks very good to me. I love that shoulder line. Lovely cloth as well.

Agreed, not the best colour combination, I would prefer some more contrast.

 

[DorianGreen]

I don’t like the carrot fit for wool trousers, but I gotta say I don’t hate it for cotton. Was going to just take delivery of these as is today but the tailor insisted that the pants be lengthened a touch. I don’t object.

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Cashmere jacket coming along nicely. Vintage cloth from Johnstons of Elgin.

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Close-up of the cloth.

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By the way, the tailor is Yoshihiko Yamakami. Those interested can follow him here: https://www.instagram.com/ykami_yhiko?igsh=cXMwM2d2NG5icnVx

Yamakami-san works out of Igarashi Trousers’ shop in Akasaka. He makes a superb-fitting jacket with very clean finishing, but there are no exaggerated stylistic features. There’s a lavish amount of shaping, and it goes without saying that the handwork is on par with all the top names. In other words, he makes a “quietly awesome” jacket.

Pricing is very reasonable, even more so with the weak yen. Not the reason why I use him, but it’s refreshing to see a one-man operation putting out fine work and charging honest prices.

Stunning cloth.

 

[twuthetiger]

Second fitting in Korea with the folks at Bntailor. The hand work is amazing. We are going to extend the shoulders just a tad and move the button stance down also a tad. Love the look so far!

 

[ddohnggo]

Qemal DB in vintage linen + silk, 270g.
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looks awesome. just got my ulster from qemal and it's amazing.

 

[ppk]

View attachment 2331967 Second fitting in Korea with the folks at Bntailor. The hand work is amazing. We are going to extend the shoulders just a tad and move the button stance down also a tad. Love the look so far! View attachment 2331969 View attachment 2331971

Looks stunning! The adjustments are perfect.

 

[mktitsworth]

Picked up the Linen Fresco today. My first impression is that it is very linen like (duh) but it's also more wrinkle resistant than regular linen. Weight wise it's really nice and it drapes nicely. I also like the way the silhouette has evolved. The pants have a better rise and are right about the length I like. The sleeves have a good curve but show a touch of sleeve. Overall I'm very happy.

Also, when I was coming in, I saw that he'd started laying out my pattern with the Flament Rose linen. I'm really excited to see what it looks like as well as the green vintage herringbone, but that was back for sewing.

 

[lordsuperb]

Picked up the Linen Fresco today. My first impression is that it is very linen like (duh) but it's also more wrinkle resistant than regular linen. Weight wise it's really nice and it drapes nicely. I also like the way the silhouette has evolved. The pants have a better rise and are right about the length I like. The sleeves have a good curve but show a touch of sleeve. Overall I'm very happy.

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Also, when I was coming in, I saw that he'd started laying out my pattern with the Flament Rose linen. I'm really excited to see what it looks like as well as the green vintage herringbone, but that was back for sewing.

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Those buttons are awful!

 

[mktitsworth]

Those buttons are awful!

Thank you for justifying my choice of them.

 

[DorianGreen]

Picked up the Linen Fresco today. My first impression is that it is very linen like (duh) but it's also more wrinkle resistant than regular linen. Weight wise it's really nice and it drapes nicely. I also like the way the silhouette has evolved. The pants have a better rise and are right about the length I like. The sleeves have a good curve but show a touch of sleeve. Overall I'm very happy.

View attachment 2332247

Also, when I was coming in, I saw that he'd started laying out my pattern with the Flament Rose linen. I'm really excited to see what it looks like as well as the green vintage herringbone, but that was back for sewing.

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Very flattering for me. Good cut and proportions.

 

[JayDee90]

Picked up the Linen Fresco today. My first impression is that it is very linen like (duh) but it's also more wrinkle resistant than regular linen. Weight wise it's really nice and it drapes nicely. I also like the way the silhouette has evolved. The pants have a better rise and are right about the length I like. The sleeves have a good curve but show a touch of sleeve. Overall I'm very happy.

View attachment 2332247

Also, when I was coming in, I saw that he'd started laying out my pattern with the Flament Rose linen. I'm really excited to see what it looks like as well as the green vintage herringbone, but that was back for sewing.

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Something about the height/size of the patch pockets along with buttoning point and spacing of the buttons looks compacted to me🤷‍♂️

 

[sugarbutch]

Picked up the Linen Fresco today. My first impression is that it is very linen like (duh) but it's also more wrinkle resistant than regular linen. Weight wise it's really nice and it drapes nicely. I also like the way the silhouette has evolved. The pants have a better rise and are right about the length I like. The sleeves have a good curve but show a touch of sleeve. Overall I'm very happy.

View attachment 2332247

Also, when I was coming in, I saw that he'd started laying out my pattern with the Flament Rose linen. I'm really excited to see what it looks like as well as the green vintage herringbone, but that was back for sewing.

View attachment 2332249

This is the best result so far. The pockets still seem oddly placed and/or shaped, but the fit is much improved.

 

[mktitsworth]

This is the best result so far. The pockets still seem oddly placed and/or shaped, but the fit is much improved.

This is certainly the best so far, but I can show you where it's incremental over the grey LGB. That's why I seem unworried. The rise of the trousers came up, the buttoning point came down a touch, the pockets came down to two inches from the bottom (though that's compared to other patch projects, since the LGB was flap). As for the weirdness of the pockets I can't help you. I've compared them up and down like suggested, and to quote a friend "I am a topologist, I do not care about such things."

You should see the Escorial DB. I think we dialed in a decent jacket for round 1, but the tailor didn't like the first round on the jacket, so he made a mock up with a new pattern and some new measurements, fit that, then recut the first jacket. For future DBs we'll just use the new pattern going forward. Which is good, because I want to turn a couple of lengths of Scabal Sunrise into summer DBs.

 

[diodati]

I don’t like the carrot fit for wool trousers, but I gotta say I don’t hate it for cotton. Was going to just take delivery of these as is today but the tailor insisted that the pants be lengthened a touch. I don’t object.

View attachment 2331895

Cashmere jacket coming along nicely. Vintage cloth from Johnstons of Elgin.

View attachment 2331897

Close-up of the cloth.

View attachment 2331899

By the way, the tailor is Yoshihiko Yamakami. Those interested can follow him here: https://www.instagram.com/ykami_yhiko?igsh=cXMwM2d2NG5icnVx

Yamakami-san works out of Igarashi Trousers’ shop in Akasaka. He makes a superb-fitting jacket with very clean finishing, but there are no exaggerated stylistic features. There’s a lavish amount of shaping, and it goes without saying that the handwork is on par with all the top names. In other words, he makes a “quietly awesome” jacket.

Pricing is very reasonable, even more so with the weak yen. Not the reason why I use him, but it’s refreshing to see a one-man operation putting out fine work and charging honest prices.

View attachment 2331967 Second fitting in Korea with the folks at Bntailor. The hand work is amazing. We are going to extend the shoulders just a tad and move the button stance down also a tad. Love the look so far! View attachment 2331969 View attachment 2331971

What is it? Visit your tailors season??

 

[ppk]

I don’t like the carrot fit for wool trousers, but I gotta say I don’t hate it for cotton. Was going to just take delivery of these as is today but the tailor insisted that the pants be lengthened a touch. I don’t object.

View attachment 2331895

Cashmere jacket coming along nicely. Vintage cloth from Johnstons of Elgin.

View attachment 2331897

Close-up of the cloth.

View attachment 2331899

By the way, the tailor is Yoshihiko Yamakami. Those interested can follow him here: https://www.instagram.com/ykami_yhiko?igsh=cXMwM2d2NG5icnVx

Yamakami-san works out of Igarashi Trousers’ shop in Akasaka. He makes a superb-fitting jacket with very clean finishing, but there are no exaggerated stylistic features. There’s a lavish amount of shaping, and it goes without saying that the handwork is on par with all the top names. In other words, he makes a “quietly awesome” jacket.

Pricing is very reasonable, even more so with the weak yen. Not the reason why I use him, but it’s refreshing to see a one-man operation putting out fine work and charging honest prices.

Damn! Both look amazing. Until I get to Japan, I'll live vicariously through your pics.

 

[tdang]

What is it? Visit your tailors season??

Makes sense for me. Fewer tourists this time of year.