Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[L.deJong]

Looks like something by Frank Shattuck.

Frank would make it differently, but he could have!

 

[garigo]

Does anyone have experience with Sartoria Pasinato? I'm often in the area and would love to hear about it.

Particularly interested in having some trousers made.

 

[ZugIslandProdigy]

I'm having some morning dress made and had these mugshots taken at the basted fitting. Do you notice anything of concern that I should pay particular attention to in the fit? In the end the coat will be 4x2 double breasted. I'm a little worried the crossover is too narrow which could make it look single-breasted. You can sort of picture where the buttons will go from the basting:

 

[Despos]

I'm having some morning dress made and had these mugshots taken at the basted fitting. Do you notice anything of concern that I should pay particular attention to in the fit? In the end the coat will be 4x2 double breasted. I'm a little worried the crossover is too narrow which could make it look single-breasted. You can sort of picture where the buttons will go from the basting:

First, did you question the maker about this?
If not, reach out to them immediately before they trim anything and it becomes too late to make a change.
There‘s about 1.25” of outlet showing on each front. Ask them to let it out and fit the jacket again.
If that doesn’t correct it to your satisfaction there’s another way to change it but no reason to explain that until you have the next fitting.

What is a 4X2 configuration?

 

[diodati]

First, did you question the maker about this?

I didn’t want to ask this because I’ve never seen a morning dress fitting. But that was my first question as well.

It would appear (to my lay eye) that the answer is no.

 

[ZugIslandProdigy]

First, did you question the maker about this?
If not, reach out to them immediately before they trim anything and it becomes too late to make a change.
There‘s about 1.25” of outlet showing on each front. Ask them to let it out and fit the jacket again.
If that doesn’t correct it to your satisfaction there’s another way to change it but no reason to explain that until you have the next fitting.

What is a 4X2 configuration?

By 4x2, I mean a square of four buttons will show, all of which rows will actually button. I've marked the coat in GIMP with the four places I was told the buttons will go.

I didn't mention my opinion on the front crossover to the tailor as it wasn't apparent to me at the fitting, which makes me wonder if it's an illusion and I shouldn't worry about it. Is this too small a square of buttons?

It would appear (to my lay eye) that the answer is no.

By this do you mean 'no, it doesn't look too close to a fly-front single breasted overcoat'?

 

[diodati]

By 4x2, I mean a square of four buttons will show, all of which rows will actually button. I've marked the coat in GIMP with the four places I was told the buttons will go.

I didn't mention my opinion on the front crossover to the tailor as it wasn't apparent to me at the fitting, which makes me wonder if it's an illusion and I shouldn't worry about it. Is this too small a square of buttons?

By this do you mean 'no, it doesn't look too close to a fly-front single breasted overcoat'?

I mean it looks like a single breasted coat. But dont take my word for it. Im not an expert on morning dress or what it’s supposed to look like.

 

[aristoi bcn]

By 4x2, I mean a square of four buttons will show, all of which rows will actually button. I've marked the coat in GIMP with the four places I was told the buttons will go.

I didn't mention my opinion on the front crossover to the tailor as it wasn't apparent to me at the fitting, which makes me wonder if it's an illusion and I shouldn't worry about it. Is this too small a square of buttons?

By this do you mean 'no, it doesn't look too close to a fly-front single breasted overcoat'?

It looks like an hybrid of a morning coat and a frock coat.

 

[ZugIslandProdigy]

It looks like an hybrid of a morning coat and a frock coat.

View attachment 2331227

It's a frock coat, which is a variety of morning coat - I'm not planning to get cutaway fronts. I did ask my tailor to show me, at the next fitting, a version with a wider wrap. So that is settled.

 

[DSze9010]

First commission from Pastena. Little adjustments here and there necessary. Apart from that, quite happy with the outcome.

Fabrics are a Fox tweed in slate brown and mid grey flannels. Unfortunately, they do not go as great together as I hoped from the pictures on the homepage.

For the next commission I am thinking about lowering the buttoning point 1 cm, extending the shoulders a touch and maybe reducing the shoulder pads.

 

[bjhofkin]

First commission from Pastena. Little adjustments here and there necessary. Apart from that, quite happy with the outcome.

Fabrics are a Fox tweed in slate brown and mid grey flannels. Unfortunately, they do not go as great together as I hoped from the pictures on the homepage.

View attachment 2331815
View attachment 2331817

For the next commission I am thinking about lowering the buttoning point 1 cm, extending the shoulders a touch and maybe reducing the shoulder pads.

Tough to tell – but is the waste pulling a little?

 

[DSze9010]

Tough to tell – but is the waste pulling a little?

I wouldn't say there is pulling as there is enough room. It seems to me as if there is too much fabric in the chest area that is creating these folds. Antonio will take a look at this the next time I see him.

 

[Crispyj]

Qemal DB in vintage linen + silk, 270g.

 

[kolecho]

I wouldn't say there is pulling as there is enough room. It seems to me as if there is too much fabric in the chest area that is creating these folds. Antonio will take a look at this the next time I see him.

Your right shoulder drop is causing the right front panel to bunch near the midsection. That panel needs to be raised up.

 

[tdang]

I don’t like the carrot fit for wool trousers, but I gotta say I don’t hate it for cotton. Was going to just take delivery of these as is today but the tailor insisted that the pants be lengthened a touch. I don’t object.

Cashmere jacket coming along nicely. Vintage cloth from Johnstons of Elgin.

Close-up of the cloth.

By the way, the tailor is Yoshihiko Yamakami. Those interested can follow him here: https://www.instagram.com/ykami_yhiko?igsh=cXMwM2d2NG5icnVx

Yamakami-san works out of Igarashi Trousers’ shop in Akasaka. He makes a superb-fitting jacket with very clean finishing, but there are no exaggerated stylistic features. There’s a lavish amount of shaping, and it goes without saying that the handwork is on par with all the top names. In other words, he makes a “quietly awesome” jacket.

Pricing is very reasonable, even more so with the weak yen. Not the reason why I use him, but it’s refreshing to see a one-man operation putting out fine work and charging honest prices.