The Chai
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2015
- Messages
- 2,287
- Reaction score
- 2,628
I wasn't intentionally going for the cran necker - i like both the notch and semi notch.Not a fan of that French notch lapel.
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I wasn't intentionally going for the cran necker - i like both the notch and semi notch.Not a fan of that French notch lapel.
I have bad news for you, Wellema's shop was totally burned down in the la fire.Oh god, don't make me sound so high brow lol. I have MORE than enough pricey vices. Bespoke hats are a bridge too far...for now.
I've got a number of brands used. Vanda (honestly would love if they brought those back!), NoMan, Armoury's house brand, and Wellema (via Armoury). I'm partly inclined to seek out the bespoke route with Wellema for a felt and panama. It's so well done as a RTW piece.
Always. I'm in the media sphere in southern California, and a sport coat/trousers is almost always labeled a suit. An actual suit might as well be a tuxedo. To pile on, I wear suspenders, which is always a "well look at that" type accessory.
Not BAD attention, to be sure...but attention, in any event.
Thus was my curiosity with Lordy's experience. Even in climates where they're warranted, I feel like I see very few legitimate overcoats.
Hi, in case you haven't heard of him, you might use Peter Hornskov in Denmark. He's a relatively young craftsman who started his company about ten years ago or so by internet funding and learning by doing. I've got a couple of hats made by him. One can order online but they also meet customers in their shop in Copenhagen once a month I believe. Back then those meetings were of no help, though, when I got confronted with all models at once and was in doubt about the model, the height of the crown that would suit my face etc. No or little guidance as he says it's all okay. I also found there was inconsistency in the fit. One hat fits very well, another is a little too loose and another is even too tight. I felt he did not really take ownership of those problems. Perhaps because he is busy and got enough customers with his online model? Not sure. Anyway, that's where the story ended for me a few years ago. He's better than RTW, certainly. But not perfect, I'd say. Just my 2 cents. You may find pics of his hats in another thread or on his insta. Hope that helpsI have bad news for you, Wellema's shop was totally burned down in the la fire.
I have to get bespoke hats because I'm a very long oval so almost no rtw hat fits me.
Anyway thanks for sharing!
Yes I knew about him, found him via instagram. His hats look nice (good styling and great eye for detail). But I wonder if his prices are not a bit too high for what he delivers. I also learned that he increased his prices a couple of years ago. So i'm a bit hesitant. I would definitely need guidance regarding brimsize and crown height as those details make me wear the hat more or less... I would have loved to have a store like 'optimo' near me to try on different hats.Hi, in case you haven't heard of him, you might use Peter Hornskov in Denmark. He's a relatively young craftsman who started his company about ten years ago or so by internet funding and learning by doing. I've got a couple of hats made by him. One can order online but they also meet customers in their shop in Copenhagen once a month I believe. Back then those meetings were of no help, though, when I got confronted with all models at once and was in doubt about the model, the height of the crown that would suit my face etc. No or little guidance as he says it's all okay. I also found there was inconsistency in the fit. One hat fits very well, another is a little too loose and another is even too tight. I felt he did not really take ownership of those problems. Perhaps because he is busy and got enough customers with his online model? Not sure. Anyway, that's where the story ended for me a few years ago. He's better than RTW, certainly. But not perfect, I'd say. Just my 2 cents. You may find pics of his hats in another thread or on his insta. Hope that helps
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I think they look well balanced, I wouldn't think about lowering the buttoning point without also extending the jacket overall.Yes I knew about him, found him via instagram. His hats look nice (good styling and great eye for detail). But I wonder if his prices are not a bit too high for what he delivers. I also learned that he increased his prices a couple of years ago. So i'm a bit hesitant. I would definitely need guidance regarding brimsize and crown height as those details make me wear the hat more or less... I would have loved to have a store like 'optimo' near me to try on different hats.
On another note I just took delivery of two bespoke tweed jackets, I expected to get a prova but there was some miscommunication so my tailor finished them without a prova.
What I would have liked to address, buttoning height a little lower, and taking in the waist a touch, but I can live with it. The lapel does some funny things at the buttoning point, it's a heavy tweed (lovat Talla so around 480gms - but it's very thick feels more like a coat weight tbh) so I expect it to settle a bit through wear.
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Grey herringbone
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Blue/Red/Grey houndstooth
What do you guys think?
Yep, extremely sad. Thinking once they (fingers crossed) get things back up and running.I have bad news for you, Wellema's shop was totally burned down in the la fire.
I have to get bespoke hats because I'm a very long oval so almost no rtw hat fits me.
Anyway thanks for sharing!
I thought they said something about how they had spend years procuring old equipment that was used to make the hats and now that was destroyed. Check their ig. They posted about it. From the sounds of it, I’m not optimistic they’ll be back. I always wanted to visit that store but never had the time to when I passed through Los Angeles. Shame.Yep, extremely sad. Thinking once they (fingers crossed) get things back up and running.
I haven't checked recently, but I know a few SF AVs (I got my Wellema when Armoury chose to send 100% of proceeds to Cody and family)/GoFundMe got set up for them. Just checked the GoFundMe, and they're a hair over $100k. No idea the all-in cost of getting a business like that set-up, but, assuming they do, I'd like to send some business their way, if only to help play a part in their restarting...
Regardless, if you can contribute to their GoFundMe, please do. Cody has young kids and was the major income producer for his family. It just sucks.I thought they said something about how they had spend years procuring old equipment that was used to make the hats and now that was destroyed. Check their ig. They posted about it. From the sounds of it, I’m not optimistic they’ll be back. I always wanted to visit that store but never had the time to when I passed through Los Angeles. Shame.
Sir, those coats look very balanced to my eyes. Beautiful shoulders, beautiful sleeves and a clean back. Certainly not your first commission with this tailor. No, the waist is not British, but hey this is what your tailor has in mind for you after all those fittings. It's his expression of his craft just for you. Therefore, unless you feel uncomfortable, leave it as it is. Also, tweed jackets should be a little roomier so you can stuff a jumper underneath when those Northsea winds blow around your earsYes I knew about him, found him via instagram. His hats look nice (good styling and great eye for detail). But I wonder if his prices are not a bit too high for what he delivers. I also learned that he increased his prices a couple of years ago. So i'm a bit hesitant. I would definitely need guidance regarding brimsize and crown height as those details make me wear the hat more or less... I would have loved to have a store like 'optimo' near me to try on different hats.
On another note I just took delivery of two bespoke tweed jackets, I expected to get a prova but there was some miscommunication so my tailor finished them without a prova.
What I would have liked to address, buttoning height a little lower, and taking in the waist a touch, but I can live with it. The lapel does some funny things at the buttoning point, it's a heavy tweed (lovat Talla so around 480gms - but it's very thick feels more like a coat weight tbh) so I expect it to settle a bit through wear.
View attachment 2326043
View attachment 2326047 View attachment 2326051 View attachment 2326045
Grey herringbone
View attachment 2326055
View attachment 2326053 View attachment 2326057
Blue/Red/Grey houndstooth
What do you guys think?
Thanks, will keep it as is for now. It's definitely not my first commission, very true indeed.Sir, those coats look very balanced to my eyes. Beautiful shoulders, beautiful sleeves and a clean back. Certainly not your first commission with this tailor. No, the waist is not British, but hey this is what your tailor has in mind for you after all those fittings. It's his expression of his craft just for you. Therefore, unless you feel uncomfortable, leave it as it is. Also, tweed jackets should be a little roomier so you can stuff a jumper underneath when those Northsea winds blow around your ears![]()
picked up some new jackets - there are 6 more but haven't had the time to take pictures
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Yes I knew about him, found him via instagram. His hats look nice (good styling and great eye for detail). But I wonder if his prices are not a bit too high for what he delivers. I also learned that he increased his prices a couple of years ago. So i'm a bit hesitant. I would definitely need guidance regarding brimsize and crown height as those details make me wear the hat more or less... I would have loved to have a store like 'optimo' near me to try on different hats.
On another note I just took delivery of two bespoke tweed jackets, I expected to get a prova but there was some miscommunication so my tailor finished them without a prova.
What I would have liked to address, buttoning height a little lower, and taking in the waist a touch, but I can live with it. The lapel does some funny things at the buttoning point, it's a heavy tweed (lovat Talla so around 480gms - but it's very thick feels more like a coat weight tbh) so I expect it to settle a bit through wear.
View attachment 2326043
View attachment 2326047 View attachment 2326051 View attachment 2326045
Grey herringbone
View attachment 2326055
View attachment 2326053 View attachment 2326057
Blue/Red/Grey houndstooth
What do you guys think?
Good lord 🤩 how do you come up with any more bespoke ideas with this output? 🤨picked up some new jackets - there are 6 more but haven't had the time to take pictures
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Good lord 🤩 how do you come up with any more bespoke ideas with this output? 🤨