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epsilon22

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I think it was a good call to have the pants not that slim. Though from my experience pants slimness is dictated more by your calf size rather than anything else. I have 32" waist but my calves are nearly 16" for whatever reasons even though I barely exercise lol. Anything slimmer than 8" would just ride up and get stuck whenever I sit.
 

clee1982

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I think it was a good call to have the pants not that slim. Though from my experience pants slimness is dictated more by your calf size rather than anything else. I have 32" waist but my calves are nearly 16" for whatever reasons even though I barely exercise lol. Anything slimmer than 8" would just ride up and get stuck whenever I sit.

I would assume a lot modern day mainstream RTW pants are too tight for you then?
 

tdang

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You and I have same idea, I’m seeing Nina when she comes over thinking doing 4x1 DB offshore bespoke in navy chalk flannel stripe

And in another news MB is here, guess it doesn’t have to be 4 visit (he just shipped after 3rd guess I’m on the east side), tried bunch button and unbuttoned shot

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I envy slimmer guys for being able to wear sleek tailoring like this 😮‍💨
 

epsilon22

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I would assume a lot modern day mainstream RTW pants are too tight for you then?
Yup but I also came from the generation that thought sausage casing jeans/pants were the norm so for quite some time I thought it was normal having to tug my trousers every time I have to stand up after sitting lol. I think my first "normal" pants were brooks brothers chinos in their clark (?) fit, the ones with flat front, mid-rise and straight fit, leg opening was probably 7.5"-8"-ish. For jeans I swapped to uniqlo's straight fit which is pretty decently mid-rise and not too skinny.

It all went downhill (uphill in terms of budget) from there thanks to this forum, from $50 BB chinos on discount to $350 Armoury army chinos, and god knows where I'd end up with jeans, now that I'm wanting higher rise than uniqlo's.
 

jonathanS

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I remember I let him drive on jacket length (actually on jacket I let him drive 100% more less), so that part should be fine.

Only thing I really deviated is I asked for less slim pant, I don't remember what his default leg opening would be for my size (I'm ~waist 30in, so modern slim would be like somewhere around 7.25in? I have him going for either 8 or 8.25in I don't remember)
It’s funny you say this because I was thinking the trousers should be trimmed slightly, especially at the opening to be in character with the jacket
 

clee1982

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It’s funny you say this because I was thinking the trousers should be trimmed slightly, especially at the opening to be in character with the jacket

I don't remember the exact #s, but it start with he wanted x I wanted y, and eventually we settle at something like y-0.25in?
 

jonathanS

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I envy slimmer guys for being able to wear sleek tailoring like this

I, too, wish I could wear this slim tailoring. I think Michael Browne and Davide taub do some really nice work. But, I’m afraid, I doubt their silhouette would look good on me. And I don’t want to take a 7000£ gamble haha
 

potter AB

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I, too, wish I could wear this slim tailoring. I think Michael Browne and Davide taub do some really nice work. But, I’m afraid, I doubt their silhouette would look good on me. And I don’t want to take a 7000£ gamble haha

Davide Taub can also accommodate other body shapes, as he has proven before
 

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L.deJong

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Davide Taub can also accommodate other body shapes, as he has proven before
Not to bash, but no tailor can make that waist disappear.
I remember Anton's book, he wrote a whole chapter on the basic fact that if you want to look good you have to make sure you are not overweight. I still laugh about that, but there is some truth to that.
 

DorianGreen

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Not to bash, but no tailor can make that waist disappear.
I remember Anton's book, he wrote a whole chapter on the basic fact that if you want to look good you have to make sure you are not overweight. I still laugh about that, but there is some truth to that.

Of course, but also people with overweight will look better in properly cut and fitted garments.

italian-designer-gianfranco-ferre-walks-down-the-runway-at-news-photo-1638783948.jpg
 
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potter AB

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What he is doing is huge.
Will have an impact on the future of this trade.
Wish him well

Reza is very dedicated and focused. And he is doing something huge indeed.

For those who don't know, Reza came from the Netherlands in order to become an apprentice and then a tailor at Chittleborough & Morgan, at a time when Michael Browne still was a cutter and Francis Paley an apprentice-cutter there. Reza has since become independent with his tailoring company Akeila.

Apart from that he wants to make a difference in the world of tailoring in both a global and positive sense. Some of you may have seen his interviews with other tailors on YouTube already e.g. with Steven Hitchcock.

In between, Reza has also had two batches of sterling silver thimbles produced for tailors all over the world just out of frustration about the poor quality of the ubiquitous cheap thimbles that break and oxidize with an itching finger as a result.

But the huge thing he has worked on during the last years is ISOT, the international school of tailoring that he founded. With the help of a sponsor he has put two series of tailoring classes online. His approach is very systematic.

Why did he found ISOT? When Reza started as an eager apprentice in London just ten and a half years ago, he noticed that the knowledge of tailoring was not being passed on effectively... because you have to be lucky with your master. Also, the whole structure to advance as a tailor seemed very 19th century-ish. All of that is not so surprising if you think that the tailoring industry had been shrinking for decades. Reza thinks it's time for an update. The internet makes it possible to connect to tailors and apprentices all over the world.

Reza has now started a third series of videos. This shall become a compendium of alterations for tailors globally, free of charge. Reza has just started funding this project as the sponsorship ended with the 2nd series. For those of you interested in why he's doing all that he explains it on one of his latest posts on instagram.

https://www.instagram.com/hotneedleandburningthread/reel/DE0N9cfsyES/?hl=en

Reza in a way is the epitome of what has happened on the London tailoring scene in recent years. A new generation of tailors is taking over after a 30-year's drought. It is all young and fragile, though, which is why it deserves support. Just my 2 cents ;)
 

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