Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[clee1982]

“Winter Escorial” as in coating weight? If so, how is it? I’m probably doing baby camel hair from Dunes for my next (and almost certainly last) overcoat, but I’m always willing to open my horizons….
And I tend to think of 9 ounces being summer weight, in general. This cloth isn’t super open weave, so we’ll see how it is in the dead of summer (probably not a game changer, but hopefully suitable). They do have a few that are 8 or 8.5 ounces but I’m pretty sure those were all in black or midnight blue for dinner jackets/tuxes.

not coat weight

something like these, fuzzy

Grey Plaid Escorial Wool Jacket

Paul Stuart

www.paulstuart.com

not sure if it's same as this

Permanent Style

Introducing: Escorial Tweed

www.permanentstyle.com

got from phineas cole rtw probably nearly 10 years ago

 

[me.spoke]

So, yesterday I had a chat with my tailor and he said he could try doing that trench coat in Loro Piana Storm System.

That said, I noticed he was still a little apprehensive of the idea. I have known him for some time. I think he probably did not want to disappoint me at all costs.

Following your input, I dropped the idea. Instead, I decided to commission my other phantasy, a navy chalk stripe suit. The fabric is Lumb’s Golden Bale.

I feel like doing a three-piece just like my previous one, only with a roped shoulder:

The problem is, I only have 3.5 m. It was just enough for the grey suit, but this is a stripe pattern.

If a 3-piece is out of the question, I will go full Al Capone and convert to DB. Here’s an inspiration from Caraceni:

Let the fate (and my tailor’s skills) decide.

 

[L.deJong]

So, yesterday I had a chat with my tailor and he said he could try doing that trench coat in Loro Piana Storm System.

That said, I noticed he was still a little apprehensive of the idea. I have known him for some time. I think he probably did not want to disappoint me at all costs.

Following your input, I dropped the idea. Instead, I decided to commission my other phantasy, a navy chalk stripe suit. The fabric is Lumb’s Golden Bale.

View attachment 2319139

I feel like doing a three-piece just like my previous one, only with a roped shoulder:

View attachment 2319141 View attachment 2319143

The problem is, I only have 3.5 m. It was just enough for the grey suit, but this is a stripe pattern.

If a 3-piece is out of the question, I will go full Al Capone and convert to DB. Here’s an inspiration from Caraceni:

View attachment 2319147

Let the fate (and my tailor’s skills) decide.

I have a grey glencheck flannel and that will be made in db. I like a striped db auit as well the pattern suits it so well. My vote db!

 

[clee1982]

You and I have same idea, I’m seeing Nina when she comes over thinking doing 4x1 DB offshore bespoke in navy chalk flannel stripe

And in another news MB is here, guess it doesn’t have to be 4 visit (he just shipped after 3rd guess I’m on the east side), tried bunch button and unbuttoned shot

 

[lordsuperb]

You and I have same idea, I’m seeing Nina when she comes over thinking doing 4x1 DB offshore bespoke in navy chalk flannel stripe

And in another news MB is here, guess it doesn’t have to be 4 visit (he just shipped after 3rd guess I’m on the east side), tried bunch button and unbuttoned shot

View attachment 2319323




View attachment 2319325


View attachment 2319327

View attachment 2319329

Oooof, the suit is clean no doubt but I hate skirt flair.

 

[clee1982]

Ha definitely exaggerated skirt flare with lifted arm to take picture but I’m also pretty sure MB likes skirt by default, he specifically said he doesn’t want lower buttoning point because you looks skirt

Edit: this is without the whole lifting arm thing

Post in thread 'Ongoing Bespoke Projects'
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857

 

[lordsuperb]

Ha definitely exaggerated skirt flare with lifted arm to take picture but I’m also pretty sure MB likes skirt by default, he specifically said he doesn’t want lower buttoning point because you looks skirt

Edit: this is without the whole lifting arm thing

Post in thread 'Ongoing Bespoke Projects'
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857

Will you become a regular customer? What are some things you would change on the next suit?

 

[clee1982]

Need to wear more to have opinion, but probably widen sleeve a bit first. Think next thing I would do is 6x2 DB solid navy suit (mentioned 4x1 to him but 6x2 is his preference and I have seen lots of 6x2 from him which looks good but all on guys a lot taller than me so I hesitate a bit)

 

[comrade]

You and I have same idea, I’m seeing Nina when she comes over thinking doing 4x1 DB offshore bespoke in navy chalk flannel stripe

And in another news MB is here, guess it doesn’t have to be 4 visit (he just shipped after 3rd guess I’m on the east side), tried bunch button and unbuttoned shot

View attachment 2319323




View attachment 2319325


View attachment 2319327

View attachment 2319329

Whenever I see such extreme roped shoulders I think of the Marquis de Custine's portrayal
in the film Russian Ark (2002)

 

[jonathanS]

Ha definitely exaggerated skirt flare with lifted arm to take picture but I’m also pretty sure MB likes skirt by default, he specifically said he doesn’t want lower buttoning point because you looks skirt

Edit: this is without the whole lifting arm thing

Post in thread 'Ongoing Bespoke Projects'
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/ongoing-bespoke-projects.404781/post-12004857

It seems like it’s the look you’re going for. I don’t know if it’s for me, but I don’t think it’s particularly bad.

You seem happy, so that’s the most important thing. Also it doesn’t look clownishly bad.

 

[clee1982]

ha, yea definitely what I was aiming for

 

[jonathanS]

ha, yea definitely what I was aiming for

It’s hard to tell from photos. How is the chest coverage? Do you have enough? I think you might. But, some of the photos make me think you could use a hair more (not much).

 

[clee1982]

chest is enough, but if you stick something thick in the chest pocket you will feel it, if any tightness maybe back a bit

 

[epsilon22]

The jacket looks a bit short, but your fitting pics look good so probably just angle or your arm posture pulling it up a bit.

 

[clee1982]

I remember I let him drive on jacket length (actually on jacket I let him drive 100% more less), so that part should be fine.

Only thing I really deviated is I asked for less slim pant, I don't remember what his default leg opening would be for my size (I'm ~waist 30in, so modern slim would be like somewhere around 7.25in? I have him going for either 8 or 8.25in I don't remember)