One's only / ideal DB suit

[Concordia]

Navy is classic, but very dark grey (flannel solid or worsted herringbone) works very well for that role. The Lesser 9.5/10 120s book has some nice HBs, and the Smith book has a beautiful 11oz flannel that A&S uses as a standard.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

I always wear a navy DB to dinner parties in Manhattan and to non-black tie formal events. In the sticks, I tend to wear SB.

What cloth?

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by Twotone

The DBs in the above photo look good. The button stance on the guy in the center, however, looks too low and makes him look even shorter. I prefer the one on the right.

I don't think button stance is the issue--a long, slanting lapel gives a considerable illusion of height. The fact is, he's between two taller men.

 

[radicaldog]

Solid navy: flannel for winter (not too mottled), kid mohair for summer, shantung for inbetween. It would be a dinner/cocktail party suit.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What cloth?

Minnis Rangoon 131 for warm weather, Lesser 29608 for cold.

 

[marco_rol]

Depends on your climate and your coloring. I prefer solid navy or a subtle navy chalk strip. Second choice (or if the color looks better on you) would be a dark gray.

 

[Sanddog]

Sorry for the delay in responding -- and thanks very much for all the helpful comments.

Originally Posted by George

I'd be interested in knowing what the OP means by 'social events', which to my mind covers a range from nightclubbing to going to the theatre.

Personally, I wouldn't wear a DB if I were out clubbing.

I mean more or less what Manton is suggesting -- cocktail parties at social clubs, weddings, charity events. The fact is that I really have few occasions where a suit is required -- no more than 1 a week, let's say -- and even fewer that are non-work occasions. So I'm going to commission a DB at some point mostly because I like the look, and then I will begin looking for excuses to wear it...

Originally Posted by Manton

Solid navy or mid gray flannel. After that, various chalk stripes.

Here's my conundrum -- I already own both of those fabrics made up as SB suits. In fact they are my very first bespoke suits, and I am working on finding a good 9/10 oz. blue worsted flannel chalk stripe (any suggestions?) for another SB.

I don't expect my suit wardrobe to number more than a dozen or so for a long time -- I'm at 5 right now -- and I was hoping there was a fabric that would make sense for a DB that wouldn't duplicate something I've already got.

Originally Posted by radicaldog

Solid navy: flannel for winter (not too mottled), kid mohair for summer, shantung for inbetween. It would be a dinner/cocktail party suit.

Shantung? Never would have thought about that for a DB. Do you have photos?

 

[Gus]

My all time favorite was a 6 x 2, DB, charcoal with a chalk stripe windowpane pattern about 2"+ square in a flannel cloth.

 

[radicaldog]

Originally Posted by Sanddog

Shantung? Never would have thought about that for a DB. Do you have photos?

Mine is SB, 3-roll-2.5, royal blue. Black/grey horn buttons. Works very well for spring/summer festive occasions. I'll see if I have a pic somewhere.

 

[lasbar]

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

My all time favorite was a 6 x 2, DB, charcoal with a chalk stripe windowpane pattern about 2"+ square in a flannel cloth.

Mine is like that or with a very muted chalk stripe..

 

[lasbar]

Originally Posted by lasbar

Mine is like that or with a very muted chalk stripe..

The pictures are coming now.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by Sanddog

Sorry for the delay in responding -- and thanks very much for all the helpful comments. I mean more or less what Manton is suggesting -- cocktail parties at social clubs, weddings, charity events. The fact is that I really have few occasions where a suit is required -- no more than 1 a week, let's say -- and even fewer that are non-work occasions. So I'm going to commission a DB at some point mostly because I like the look, and then I will begin looking for excuses to wear it...
Right, as man who tends towards occasional bouts of misanthropy , I don't attend many of these type of functions, unless that is, there is copious amounts of alcohol served to dull the senses. The ever reliable Mrs George comes to the rescue here. That said, if this is a suit for 'special' occasions and won't be worn that often, why not push the boat out a little and select a suiting with a hint of cashmere and/or a more contemporary finish? Harrisons Cru Classe has some interesting stripes and makes up very well. Have a look at the H&S website also, they always have some interesting cloths. Flannel, is probably the 'ultimate' slouchy fabric but wears [too] warm and more so in a DB configuration. This could make you uncomfortable in an environment were you want to look relaxed. Silk, very much depends on the circles you move in. Could be seen as slick, Mohair the same. I would look for a cloth around the 10oz mark or perhaps a tad lighter as you wouldn't want to be taking your coat at the first opportunity.

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by George

That said, if this is a suit for 'special' occasions and won't be worn that often, why not push the boat out a little and select a suiting with a hint of cashmere and/or a more contemporary finish?

You're going to have to explain how a cloth's finish can be "contemporary." I mean, unless there are nanobots.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by amplifiedheat

You're going to have to explain how a cloth's finish can be "contemporary." I mean, unless there are nanobots.
Cloth can be finished in different ways, have different looks, but still be all wool. Some cloth is finished to give a traditional look to the cloth, whilst others are finished to look more up to date, modern, current, contemporary. It's hard to explain without having the cloth in front of you. You'll know it when you see it.

 

[amplifiedheat]

Originally Posted by George

Some cloth is finished to give a traditional look to the cloth, whilst others are finished to look more up to date, modern, current, contemporary.
You're using a lot of words. I still fail to see why one method of crossing fibers is up-to-date, while another is not.