One-Button suits and Sportsjackets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Lydia, Mar 8, 2005.

  1. Lydia

    Lydia Senior member

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    Any man who commits that faux-pas of all faux-pas, buttoning the lower button on his two-button sportjacket or suit jacket, will meet with disdainful glances and set himself on a course of failure for life. These buffoons are not cultured enough to know that King Edward VII had a gut that prevented his buttoning that lower button. Suit makers have since also taken their cue from this elegant monarch, and design their jackets so that they look better without this lower button buttoned. This thing about Edward, may be only a legend, but I certainly feel that my hand will wither to the bone if I ever touch that second button. So, cool, we have this forbidden lower button, but we also must avoid one-button jackets. They are extremely hard to come by, and considered far too fashion-forward. What is wrong with them though, really, and why aren't there more of them?
     
  2. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Looks pretty good to me [​IMG]
     
  3. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I find that one-button suits and sportcoats look best if the button sits right at the narrow part of the waist. One-buttons with buttons too low are awful.

    But would I personally get one? Probably not. They're not too versatile.
     
  4. Carlo

    Carlo Senior member

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    Pucci of Chicago does this well. I will defer to the tailors on the board for explanation but I believe a one button is the greatest challenge for a tailor. Quite elegant when fitted perfectly (as they must be)
     
  5. uriahheep

    uriahheep Senior member

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    To me angled pockets look a little strange on a business-type suit. To my eyes the angle of the pockets makes the jacket seem extra-long. The degree of waist suppression makes the jacket seem a bit...almost feminine, to me. I really like the look of the fabric of the jacket pictured.
    The peal lapels and the angled pockets taper toward and, along with the single button, draw attention to the waist.
     
  6. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    Me too. Way too much hour-glass figured.
     
  7. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    Savile Row will be Savile Row.

    The jacket seems to be really long, the front is quite lower than the sides.

    Mathieu
     
  8. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    (uriahheep @ Mar. 07 2005,20:47) To me angled pockets look a little strange on a business-type suit. To my eyes the angle of the pockets makes the jacket seem extra-long. The degree of waist suppression makes the jacket seem a bit...almost feminine, to me. I really like the look of the fabric of the jacket pictured. The peal lapels and the angled pockets taper toward and, along with the single button, draw attention to the waist.
    Me too. Way too much hour-glass figured.
    Aha, but that all depends on your body type. I have a V-shaped body and I look good only in tapered hourglass style waists. Boxy jackets make my body look as if it is swimming inside the jacket. Jon.
     
  9. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    IMO, the button should be placed where the middle button on a 2 ½ button suit is placed, with the lapels rolling to a direct stop above the button. If it is too low, the entire look is lost; if too high the jacket skirt will flap too much and come undone in an unsightly manner when buttoned.

    Jon.
     
  10. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Honestly, I think that the Darren Beaman 1-button three-piece pictured here (and other places) is my personal favorite of any suit I've ever seen. Opinions are likely to change, but really, I keep coming back to this one as being the ultimate of ultimates.
     
  11. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    First, I think the front is longer than the sides because it is pinned in the back. That also explains the incredibly suppressed waist. I could be wrong though.

    Inspired by the design, I ordered today the exact same suit from my tailor in a light gray subtle herringbone. I got a 6 button DB vest instead of 8 button, as Darren made for this suit.

    Will obviously post pics when the project is complete.
     
  12. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    Please do
     
  13. alchimiste

    alchimiste Senior member

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    Could somebody who actually saw the suit comment on this?
    I do like the curve at the bottom of the suit. Unusual but great. So if the suit is not actually like this I will cry.
     
  14. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Isn't that at the narrow part of the waist? Or maybe it's just me and my waist.
     
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior member

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    H. Huntsman, the venerable Savile Row suitmaker, has long provided a 1 button coat. In fact, it is their signature cut. There is nothing fashion forward about it. Maybe some of the more fashion forward clothing companies have picked up on it lately, but its been around forever. www.h-huntsman.com.
     

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