One Bespoke Overcoat

[Manton]

What would it be?

Assume that you probably will never get another because suit/jacket/shoe or other purchases will always take precedent. Also, you already have one or more decent RTW overcoats.

So. What would your one bespoke number be? Model, cut, color, pattern (if any), cloth, detailing, etc.

 

[RJmanbearpig]

Midnight blue very thick cashmere or alpaca with a military great coat cut, including a collar you can turn up and button funnel-style against the wind. Dark horn buttons, turned back cuffs.

 

[voxsartoria]

For versatility: a DB Ulster/polo in camel (vicuña if you've got the bucks). Envelope pockets.

Otherwise, a Chesterfield or covert coat.

- B

 

[bluemagic]

Manton, while you were out: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=90506 EDIT: Hmm: Your acolytes actually seem to have solved the matter for you. On topic: At this point in my life I'd take a rain check on the bespoke overcoat. At my age I have more fun buying mid-range RTW stuff and mixing and matching, the experimental stage of developing a sartorial vision. Once I have that vision in a more congealed state (and I actually graduate from professional school) , I'll get bespoke.

 

[yachtie]

If I only could have one: Mid brown, DB, long (boot length), swelled edges, 2 box pleats, very slightly angled flap pockets, welted breast pocket, belted back, supressed waist, in unimaginably heavy cloth.

Wait, that's being made now

 

[grimslade]

This question isn't fair. How can I answer it if Manton doesn't tell me what to think first?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by grimslade

This question isn't fair. How can I answer it if Manton doesn't tell me what to think first?

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by RJmanbearpig

Midnight blue very thick cashmere or alpaca with a military great coat cut, including a collar you can turn up and button funnel-style against the wind. Dark horn buttons, turned back cuffs.

This sounds near perfect.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by RJmanbearpig

Midnight blue very thick cashmere or alpaca with a military great coat cut, including a collar you can turn up and button funnel-style against the wind. Dark horn buttons, turned back cuffs.

Ditto on the cut.

 

[texas_jack]

Probably your basic camel DB coat but I'd like turnback cuffs.

 

[edmorel]

I'd go with something DB with nice lapels, just above the knee, camel hair or cashmere, tan or grey, nice chest pocket and lightweight. Maybe camel hair lined in cashmere.

 

[Manton]

How do you define military greatcoat cut? Ulster with epaulets?

 

[greekonomist]

Definitely a DB. Not sure about the other details. Maybe a pleated back with a belt.

 

[KObalto]

Originally Posted by RJmanbearpig

Midnight blue very thick cashmere or alpaca with a military great coat cut, including a collar you can turn up and button funnel-style against the wind. Dark horn buttons, turned back cuffs.

+1 and double-breasted. No epaulets.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Manton

How do you define military greatcoat cut? Ulster with epaulets?

This thread has a great example. You can tone it down by using horn buttons and losing the epaulets (maybe the cuffs, too), but the shape is great. I have a version in a very heavy navy herringbone that is as I described, but with a traditional DB front (i.e., not a Ghillie collar).