One Bespoke Overcoat

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Manton

Just to complicate matters. What if you already had it in your head that some day you want an orthodox polo coat: tan camel, DB 6x2, double-stitched edges, envelope pockets, sleeve cuffs, rear half-belt. Should that be "the one"? Or should "the one" be something more formal?
I think that this is something you can get easily enough RTW in a perfectly classical configuration, and there isn't much payoff from a bespoke fit. The reason for the greatcoat suggestion is that it is hard to find in RTW an overcoat with a reasonably fitted chest/shoulders (or at least a real waist) that also has a full sweeping skirt. For someone your height, it would be even harder to find.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Manton

Just to complicate matters. What if you already had it in your head that some day you want an orthodox polo coat: tan camel, DB 6x2, double-stitched edges, envelope pockets, sleeve cuffs, rear half-belt.

Should that be "the one"? Or should "the one" be something more formal?

Then you'd be able to answer the question as to whether you can pull off wearing it with a dinner jacket.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Manton

Just to complicate matters. What if you already had it in your head that some day you want an orthodox polo coat: tan camel, DB 6x2, double-stitched edges, envelope pockets, sleeve cuffs, rear half-belt.

Should that be "the one"? Or should "the one" be something more formal?

No, if you don't have that in a bespoke coat, I would go with that.

It is the type of coat where I think a properly fitted version is spectacularly better than RTW...particularly for someone like you who is not proportioned in a way friendly to RTW.

If you do, I would go with a thick camel unless you can spring for vicuña...cashmere is too middle of the road for me in this type of coat.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by dopey

I think that this is something you can get easily enough RTW in a perfectly classical configuration, and there isn't much payoff from a bespoke fit.

I differ with you on that, particuarly for Mantoni. I think that finding him a properly proportioned RTW polo is probably impossible.


- B

 

[Manton]

I have a RTW polo coat, and while it is OK, I don't love it. The configuration is not orthodox, and the fit is just OK. It fits better than my other OC, however.

Vicuna is out of the question. Even if I could afford it, I would still get camel for this.

 

[Connemara]

I want an auld tyme Brooks Bros. polo coat.

 

[globetrotter]

I have one bespoke overcoat - tabaco colored cashmere, cut like a SB suit jacket but ventless and mid calf length, no belt.


I have an off the rack that is loden, with an A line, in charcoal. I think that if I were having an overcoat made again (which I think I won't - I think that an overcoat is a once in a lifetime deal) I'd get it in thick dark loden.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Connemara

I want an auld tyme Brooks Bros. polo coat.

I have one and it is not right. 6X3, and no sleeve cuffs. Plus the pockets are flapped patch, not envelope.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Manton

I have a RTW polo coat, and while it is OK, I don't love it. The configuration is not orthodox, and the fit is just OK. It fits better than my other OC, however.

Vicuna is out of the question. Even if I could afford it, I would still get camel for this.

Mine is a thick, thick camel, and it is more convincing that cashmere in this application.

- B

 

[Despos]

I don't think camel works for having one topcoat. Works for daytime but not evening.
I would do dark grey before navy, herringbone or solid, DB, 3x2, two lower flap, no breast pocket, 17 - 18 ounce and I would not do 100% cashmere but maybe a 15% cashmere, 85% wool blend. Simple but classic. Timeless.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Despos

I don't think camel works for having one topcoat. Works for daytime but not evening.
I would do dark grey before navy, herringbone or solid, DB, 3x2, two lower flap, no breast pocket, 17 - 18 ounce and I would not do 100% cashmere but maybe a 15% cashmere, 85% wool blend. Simple but classic. Timeless.

I have thought of this. For some reason, blue attracts me more than gray. Same details, though I might get a breast welt.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Cashmere is better in this application, IMO.

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Mine is a thick, thick camel, and it is more convincing that cashmere in this application.

- B

Bespoke or RTW?
Polo (Ralph) does a pretty classic Polo Coat. How is Paul Stuart's.

You may be right that manton has a tougher time with RTW fit than most, but if I am right about Ralph Lauren, he coould probably order one MTM without much of an upcharge.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Manton

Just to complicate matters. What if you already had it in your head that some day you want an orthodox polo coat: tan camel, DB 6x2, double-stitched edges, envelope pockets, sleeve cuffs, rear half-belt.

Should that be "the one"? Or should "the one" be something more formal?

An orthodox polo coat has framed patch pockets not envelope flaps.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Manton

I have thought of this. For some reason, blue attracts me more than gray. Same details, though I might get a breast welt.

You just blew it!