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on the Street in NYC....Tailored in Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Sartorialist, Apr 24, 2006.

  1. dirk diggler

    dirk diggler Distinguished Member

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    ditto on cigar - glad to see a fellow smoker
     


  2. A Y

    A Y Distinguished Member

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    Very nice. I especially like the shoes, the super-high gorge on the jacket, and is that a patch breast pocket?

    The simplicity of his outfit is great, too, and that along with what I saw this weekend is helping me understand the observation that many Italians don't dress overtly flamboyantly, but still manage to look interesting: I was in the Beverly Hills Zegna this weekend, and saw two visitors from their main office in Italy, who, though somewhat short and squat, were individually elegant in what essentially were navy jackets, khaki slacks, and white shirts. However, they appeared to have rented a purple Chevy HHR. [​IMG]

    --Andre
     


  3. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    However, they appeared to have rented a purple Chevy HHR. [​IMG]

    --Andre

    Probably couldnt afford the Russian ex military Jeep [​IMG]
     


  4. tiger02

    tiger02 Militarist

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    This is what happens when the new "Peewee Hermann" style is worn by a fat man. If you are 5'6" you can get away with wearing your little brothers clothes and people will think you are cute or an out of work model. This guy needs a tailor.

    Perry

    Start with TLE of about a click man. New--no, old. Neapolitan. Peewee Herman style--I assume you're referring to TB here, and no again. He's an American referencing the '50s and '60s. Neapolitan tailors have been doing this forever.

    That being said, the tapered legs just don't quite make it for this guy. He needs just a little more fullness, no more than a couple of inches. Give it that balance and it'll be perfect. Took me two looks to figure that out though.

    Patch breast pocket? Most likely. The Partenopea that chorse hooked me up with has one, it seems to be de rigeur for Neapolitan tailoring.

    Tom
     


  5. Margaret

    Margaret Distinguished Member

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    The jacket is too tight, but it's a cool look overall.
     


  6. TimMureau

    TimMureau Well-Known Member

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    The jacket looks very good, the tie is very boring.
     


  7. Ed355

    Ed355 Senior Member

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    I think the pants actually work for him. They look like they fit him well to my eye, and I think a more structured look and fuller cut would just make him look American. A lot of guys that size don't wear clothes that fit them well - this guy doesn't fall into that trap.

    Really? Looks to me his belly is hanging out of his pants like a watermelon. He should have the waist of the pants expanded.
     


  8. Baron

    Baron Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    Really? Looks to me his belly is hanging out of his pants like a watermelon. He should have the waist of the pants expanded.

    We'll have to agree to disagree. Nothing this guy could wear would make him look thin, but clearly the shirt fits him well in the neck, and the trousers are tailored such that they fit him in the waist (to my eyes) without draping down around his legs like a tent. That is what heavy men usually look like (see the Sopranos for examples.)
     


  9. darck

    darck Well-Known Member

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    IMO there are two things that take his outfit from the "good" level to the "great" level - the shoes and the cigar!

    Also, be sure to read the full story over at The Sartorialist's blog.

    Finally, hats off to The Sartorialist for yet another truly inspiring photo!
     


  10. operationexpat

    operationexpat Well-Known Member

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    I like it except for the blue on blue. And it looks a little sloppy to me, not sure whether it's the wrinkles or the tie or what. Other than that, high marks for originality.

    Sara
     


  11. Tomasso

    Tomasso Distinguished Member

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    The trousers could be so much better. The flat front, slim/tapered cut serve only to accentuate his girth.
     


  12. berlin report

    berlin report Distinguished Member

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    I like the way he's not afraid to show the shape of his body. I don't think his clothes accentuate it either. You just see how he's built. I see a man taking pride in looking like himself. It works because he looks confident. Typically italian.
     


  13. Mr. Checks

    Mr. Checks Distinguished Member

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    Finally, a man of substance!

    I actually think the collar and tie knot are too big: while he's a large man, his head is not that big.
     


  14. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Distinguished Member

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    The spread collar is contributing to the "huge head" perception.

    In addition to the pants and jacket (which should show some cuff), the shirt is too tight.

    Buttoning the jacket would help a lot. A brighter tie would help distract from the dimensions and balance the bold shoes.
     


  15. Lord Byron

    Lord Byron Member

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    Gentlemen,
    The man is dressed in very typical Neapolitan style. That said, it is a style that differs from what Americans or Englishmen would consider "well-tailored", ie, having much more fabric hangin and floating around. What you can't tell simply by looking at this picture is the way this man's jacket (probably) feels. High quality handmade jackets like this feel as light as a second shirt, with fabric that's incredibly soft to the touch, and tailoring that is second to none.
    I'd recommend a trip to Napoli, a visit to some of the nicer stores (Rubinacci, et al), and trying on a Neapolitan jacket, before judging his look too severly.
    There's no believer like a convert.
     


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