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On Pants

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tutee, Apr 25, 2010.

  1. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Neah...I'm just standing in that shot with my feet pointing bit outward rather than straighter ahead. C'est la vie.

    My legs are as straight as Doric columns.


    - B



    Is that the modern-tailor shirt? Looks like a decent fit to me.
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Is that the modern-tailor shirt? Looks like a decent fit to me.

    Yes. It came out very well except I think that the collar is irretrievable. I'm unclear if they have any good collars, but Will uses them and seems happy.

    I should be getting my updated Whittaker/Dege try-on shortly. Fingers are crossed.


    - B
     


  3. dv3

    dv3 Senior member

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    ^mytailor I know you two haven't missed the action in the mytailor vs modern tailor threads. Will uses mytailor, vox used mytailor, even dv3 uses mytailor. Modern tailor < Mytailor, IMHO [​IMG] On topic: I printed out and read the chapter/pages from that book on tailoring linked in the OP. I couldn't imagine myself going to a tailor and micromanaging with that knowledge. I believe I would make his/her most hated customer list. Nevertheless, it was an interesting read and I like this thread.
     


  4. le.gentleman

    le.gentleman Senior member

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    Great posting tutee, as always.
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    ^mytailor

    Right...my mistake. Hemrajani Bros.


    - B
     


  6. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Disagreeing with an assessment is not grounds for labeling it thoughtless. I've explained each of my assessments.

    But have yet to provide an alternative.
     


  7. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Kindly also share (if you wish) how did you arrived at the fit and if not what did you felt obstructed in this fit process.

    Thanks for ^, tutee.

    I now have a greater resolution of my pants framework - fit the seat first [analogous to the jacket's shoulders], and all else follow and flow.

    It makes sense that the sacral tilt/seat angle is to the lower half what the shoulder slant is to the upper half.

    My contribution - I am picking up the trousers pictured below [part of a suit] in a few weeks. There have been two more fittings since the photos, and much shavings have been done.

    The photos were also taken without preparation or pressing [yet presentable enough to see the beginnings of fit].

    My idiosyncracies - hippier on the right, and slightly bow legged.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    - M
     


  8. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Below are pants made by jefferyd of this forum and are one of the best examples of fit in every possible way. Note the completely absence of any puckering, pulling stretching, and above all perfect back balance.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    *I just wish there was a front picture of these; maybe Jeffery would be kind enough to share that with us


    Iirc, jefferyd wrote on his blog that those pants had a lot shaping done with an iron and compared them to the same pair without any iron work. Do rtw pants, even high end, have any shaping?

    Below are Vox's pants from a suit you have seen in WRYWRN thread and he will surely share his comments on these

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Vox, is that a monogram I see or do you have a dust on your Hemrajani? :manouche:
     


  9. Nouveau Pauvre

    Nouveau Pauvre Senior member

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    what is this i dont even [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  10. zoorado

    zoorado Senior member

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    Disagreeing with an assessment is not grounds for labeling it thoughtless. I've explained each of my assessments.

    Some people don't know how to handle themselves when confronted with differing opinions...


    I don't think you've explained why you thought the OP's trousers fit is not up to mark.
     


  11. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Disagreeing with an assessment is not grounds for labeling it thoughtless. I've explained each of my assessments.
    Really?
    Their blatant old-timeyness = folksy.

    Their shape/waist/curtainyness = effeminate.

    I didn't realise that there was something intrinsically effeminate about 'curtainy' (i.e.looser cut) pants that sit at the natural waist and which are held up by braces. I may be mistaken, but oh maybe almost no women wear pants like that on a daily basis.

    Didn't realise that good ol' uncle Jimbo or any of the yeehaw buckaroo crew wore pants like that either. Unless something about braces sets off your 'old timer' alarm.

    The simple truth of the matter is that we are not disagreeing with your assessment, because there is no assement to disagree with. Only a few non-sequiturs that are not much different from the 'that's lame' or 'that's gay' type of comment, save for a little window dressing.
     


  12. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    Their shape/waist/curtainyness = effeminate.

    I repeat, good drape and a high waist are not effeminate. Every reference to effeminate trousers I can find refers to tightness, and usually a low waist. (Of course, at some points in history, trousers themselves have been considered effeminate.)

    Assuming effeminate to mean "unmanly/feminine," we shall consider what women's trousers look like. The details are variable with fashion, but the only women who wore pants like tutee's were Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn, who of course were known for dressing like men.

    Finally, "curtainyness"? Do you mean that they fall straight, rather than clinging to the leg? If so, that's about as classic man's pants as you can get.
     


  13. tutee

    tutee Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Iirc, jefferyd wrote on his blog that those pants had a lot shaping done with an iron and compared them to the same pair without any iron work. Do rtw pants, even high end, have any shaping?

    Yes they were indeed shaped with iron. Iron work in pants is exactly as crucial as cutting and in some cases even more. The high end RTW may have some subtle shaping but even then because there is no customer present all of that blind iron work is wasted more or less, unless you can somehow exactly fit into the pattern on which they were cut on.

    When I've worked with one man tailors (those who make the coat and trousers themselves) or a tailoring house it can take up to 2 trousers to get the fit as I want them to look. Usually tweaks are made after I've worn the first pair and I've noticed some things I would like to change. Afterwards one fitting is sufficient to get my fit correct. With dedicated trousermakers, usually they get the fit I would like by the first trousers, and smaller tweaks to subsequent orders. This process is sometimes repeated when I choose a different style and fit of trousers.

    Well that is pretty amazing if you can do this with one fitting. In all of my experience I have never been this lucky. I need at least 2-3 fittings on subsequent trousers also to the vertical balance issues resolved. This is why the visiting tailor scenario was never really fruitful. I mean it was like 3 fittings after the initial order you are nearly 2 years away from your inital order (in some cases) and pants are still not correct so I usually decided to let it go.


    Here are some photos that I've posted here showing trousers. The shadow chalk stripe was basically finished except for shortening.


    Thank you for sharing these. If these gray chalk striped ones are from Italy, it is refreshing to know that you (or your tailor) are balancing the silhouette; i.e. fuller jacket with a full cut pants. Honestly, haven't seen anything lately like this from Italy (esp. if this is southern Italy).

    I wish I could see more detailed pictures but it looks nice. BTW I know I am eons late for this but was there ever a re-run for this cloth?

    PS To mmkn. I will get back to your pics hopefully over the weekend. Thank you for posting the pictures
     


  14. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    [part of a suit]

    PS

    I probably should wait until I receive the suit . . . but here is the other half of the whole . . .

    [​IMG]

    - M
     


  15. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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