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On an otherwise perfect jacket, will the drop in one shoulder be seen?

DGP

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I was just thinking, when I went in for a MTM suit, the person fitting me never did anything to account for the fact that there is a slight drop in my right shoulder. In fact, until I went to a different tailor in LA, with a suit that was a bit too big, I never even knew I had a drop. Can I assume that since every other part of the MTM jacket will fit perfectly, that this will just go unnoticed, considering it is very subtle, and was only seen on a suit where parts were clearly too big? Also, if for some reason it needs to be taken up, will that affect the sleeve length (can't do much with it, as it has working button holes)? If it were a problem at all, I'm not worried, as it would be the store's responsibility, just curious whey nothing was done with my shoulder durring fitting, whether it was because they just didn't think about it, or because it wouldn't be needed.
 

Edward Appleby

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It seems to me that compensating for a drop in one shoulder would be beyond the scope of MTM, wouldn't it?
 

DGP

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Originally Posted by Edward Appleby
It seems to me that compensating for a drop in one shoulder would be beyond the scope of MTM, wouldn't it?


If you could tell from trying on the jacket, you could know how much to raise it, I'd think, but I guess I could be wrong. In any case, it would be an easy fix in this case, were it needed, right?
 

Despos

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Most MTM programs should accomodate a low shoulder as this is probably the most common issue. I would confirm with the person who measured you if they did or did not notice your low shoulder. The easy fix is with more padding if the jacket is finished and not cut for the low shoulder. The difficult fix is to remove the sleeve, recut the shoulder and reshape the armhole, then sew the sleeve on.
 

DGP

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Originally Posted by Despos
Most MTM programs should accomodate a low shoulder as this is probably the most common issue. I would confirm with the person who measured you if they did or did not notice your low shoulder. The easy fix is with more padding if the jacket is finished and not cut for the low shoulder. The difficult fix is to remove the sleeve, recut the shoulder and reshape the armhole, then sew the sleeve on.


If adjustments were needed, I suppose I'd opt for the latter. I can't see why I'd want a MTM Zegna that just had a bunch of crap stuffed into the shoulder, I'd want it done right. And I would think it to be the store's responsibility, for not taking this into account when I tried jackets on. But, we shall see what happens when it arrives.
 

Quirk

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Originally Posted by DGP
I can't see why I'd want a MTM Zegna that just had a bunch of crap stuffed into the shoulder, I'd want it done right.


What is considered the right way for a tailor to handle this? Should the jacket conform to the imbalance or disguise it?
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by Quirk
What is considered the right way for a tailor to handle this? Should the jacket conform to the imbalance or disguise it?

What makes a low shoulder obvious is the breaking and wrinkles under the arm on the front chest and the back. 1/4" or 1/2" low shoulders can be adjusted for in the cutting and will disquise the low shoulder by lying properly on the shoulder The adjustment will pick up the jacket on the low side and clean up the breaking. Usually you will not be able to discern that the shoulder is low when adjusted for.
For a shoulder that is 1" lower than the other, it is good to cut for 1/2" low and fill in the diference with a bit more pad to balance the height of the shoulders.
 

DGP

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Originally Posted by Despos
What makes a low shoulder obvious is the breaking and wrinkles under the arm on the front chest and the back. 1/4" or 1/2" low shoulders can be adjusted for in the cutting and will disquise the low shoulder by lying properly on the shoulder The adjustment will pick up the jacket on the low side and clean up the breaking. Usually you will not be able to discern that the shoulder is low when adjusted for.
For a shoulder that is 1" lower than the other, it is good to cut for 1/2" low and fill in the diference with a bit more pad to balance the height of the shoulders.



I'm probably in that 1/4 range. To be honest, on my size 40 suits, I never noticed anything off. Then I saw the huge bulging on my 42s when I had a tailor pinning them. Now, when I look at my 40s, I see just a touch of bulging, but nothing like my most recent suits. I'm sure any 40 will be wearable, it's just a question of getting this one perfect.
 

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