On an otherwise perfect jacket, will the drop in one shoulder be seen?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by DGP, Aug 7, 2006.

  1. DGP

    DGP Senior member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    I was just thinking, when I went in for a MTM suit, the person fitting me never did anything to account for the fact that there is a slight drop in my right shoulder. In fact, until I went to a different tailor in LA, with a suit that was a bit too big, I never even knew I had a drop. Can I assume that since every other part of the MTM jacket will fit perfectly, that this will just go unnoticed, considering it is very subtle, and was only seen on a suit where parts were clearly too big? Also, if for some reason it needs to be taken up, will that affect the sleeve length (can't do much with it, as it has working button holes)? If it were a problem at all, I'm not worried, as it would be the store's responsibility, just curious whey nothing was done with my shoulder durring fitting, whether it was because they just didn't think about it, or because it wouldn't be needed.
     


  2. Edward Appleby

    Edward Appleby Senior member

    Messages:
    3,246
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2005
    Location:
    Cambridge/Texas
    It seems to me that compensating for a drop in one shoulder would be beyond the scope of MTM, wouldn't it?
     


  3. DGP

    DGP Senior member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    It seems to me that compensating for a drop in one shoulder would be beyond the scope of MTM, wouldn't it?


    If you could tell from trying on the jacket, you could know how much to raise it, I'd think, but I guess I could be wrong. In any case, it would be an easy fix in this case, were it needed, right?
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,116
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    Most MTM programs should accomodate a low shoulder as this is probably the most common issue. I would confirm with the person who measured you if they did or did not notice your low shoulder. The easy fix is with more padding if the jacket is finished and not cut for the low shoulder. The difficult fix is to remove the sleeve, recut the shoulder and reshape the armhole, then sew the sleeve on.
     


  5. DGP

    DGP Senior member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Most MTM programs should accomodate a low shoulder as this is probably the most common issue. I would confirm with the person who measured you if they did or did not notice your low shoulder. The easy fix is with more padding if the jacket is finished and not cut for the low shoulder. The difficult fix is to remove the sleeve, recut the shoulder and reshape the armhole, then sew the sleeve on.


    If adjustments were needed, I suppose I'd opt for the latter. I can't see why I'd want a MTM Zegna that just had a bunch of crap stuffed into the shoulder, I'd want it done right. And I would think it to be the store's responsibility, for not taking this into account when I tried jackets on. But, we shall see what happens when it arrives.
     


  6. Quirk

    Quirk Senior member

    Messages:
    2,581
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    I can't see why I'd want a MTM Zegna that just had a bunch of crap stuffed into the shoulder, I'd want it done right.


    What is considered the right way for a tailor to handle this? Should the jacket conform to the imbalance or disguise it?
     


  7. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,116
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    What is considered the right way for a tailor to handle this? Should the jacket conform to the imbalance or disguise it?

    What makes a low shoulder obvious is the breaking and wrinkles under the arm on the front chest and the back. 1/4" or 1/2" low shoulders can be adjusted for in the cutting and will disquise the low shoulder by lying properly on the shoulder The adjustment will pick up the jacket on the low side and clean up the breaking. Usually you will not be able to discern that the shoulder is low when adjusted for.
    For a shoulder that is 1" lower than the other, it is good to cut for 1/2" low and fill in the diference with a bit more pad to balance the height of the shoulders.
     


  8. DGP

    DGP Senior member

    Messages:
    2,100
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    What makes a low shoulder obvious is the breaking and wrinkles under the arm on the front chest and the back. 1/4" or 1/2" low shoulders can be adjusted for in the cutting and will disquise the low shoulder by lying properly on the shoulder The adjustment will pick up the jacket on the low side and clean up the breaking. Usually you will not be able to discern that the shoulder is low when adjusted for.
    For a shoulder that is 1" lower than the other, it is good to cut for 1/2" low and fill in the diference with a bit more pad to balance the height of the shoulders.



    I'm probably in that 1/4 range. To be honest, on my size 40 suits, I never noticed anything off. Then I saw the huge bulging on my 42s when I had a tailor pinning them. Now, when I look at my 40s, I see just a touch of bulging, but nothing like my most recent suits. I'm sure any 40 will be wearable, it's just a question of getting this one perfect.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by