Oliver Wicks - first order

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jimrude, Oct 10, 2016.

  1. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    I just received my first order from Oliver Wicks.

    Their process involves taking a few of your own measurements, as well as those from an existing suit that fits you "well".

    I'm fairly hard to fit (big shoulders, reasonable drop from chest to waist, etc etc), so I wasn't sure what to expect.

    The company offers up to $125 back to cover alterations.

    Grateful to receive (constructive) comments on the fit.

    Can this be tailored, or is it a lost cause? I'm particularly concerned about the shoulder divots, and the fabric across the back. Sleeve length isn't an issue, as this is a shirt I haven't laundered yet (some sleeve shrinkage to come).

    It's a nice 110's fabric from VBC. The finishing work on the suit is nice, as well.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/YOPg8
     


  2. aj805

    aj805 Senior member

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    The shoulder divots are a problem with the size and shape of the armhole (too small), and in my experience not something that can be fixed when it's that extreme; the extra material isn't probably in there to fix. I've have the exact same problem with several MTM commissions, my delts are disproportionately large.

    If you send them these pics (and maybe some other close-ups of the area, from different angles), I believe they should be able to fix this in a re-make if they're competent. If you have a well-fitting jacket you could obviously also send that in so they can reverse engineer it.

    The back should be fixable just by letting out the center seam, something a tailor can handle.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2016


  3. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Looks like you're holding your breath.
    Does the suit fit that close?
    Also, back is terrible
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2016


  4. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    Nope, no breath holding. And no, it's definitely not a tight/close fit, although the back might lead one to conclude otherwise.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     


  5. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    So here's an update:

    Based on the feedback here, and from some others, I sent an email to Oliver Wicks. Within 24 hours I received the following reply:

    QUOTE
    - The silhouette looks nice, with the right amount of waist suppression. If you`d like we can lower the button stance and take in the front of the jacket (top button level) a bit, but that may lead to the lapel not laying evenly, which we tried to avoid when tailoring you initial jacket. Taking in the jacket waist would also lead to visible pulling at the level of the top button, which is not recommended.

    - The fit in the chest area and the roll of the lapels are quite appropriate.

    - We suggest that we take in the shoulders a bit, since this will help eliminate the issue with the shoulder divots. We will also change the shoulder pattern and the jacket will align better with your natural shoulder slope. This will result in the shoulders looking softer.

    - The sleeve length is good. As it is much of a personal preference, we can increase it by 3/8" as requested.

    - We suggest that we rotate the sleeves of the jacket forward by 3/8", and reduce the biceps just a little - this will make the back of the sleeves cleaner.

    - The collar looks nice, there is no gaping.

    - If you feel that the back between the blades is tight and restricting, we can let it out further.
    UNQUOTE

    So they have offered to remake the jacket, in order to correct the sleeve divots, and the back.

    So far I am very impressed with their customer service and responsiveness. It will be interesting to see if we/they can get the fit dialed-in.
     


  6. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    So here is their second try.

    https://imgur.com/gallery/2vUcw

    IMO:

    Back looks better.

    Sleeve length is better.

    Shoulder divots are better.

    But it seems there's extra fabric in the upper arms.

    Comments?
     


  7. dluce76

    dluce76 Active Member

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    Looks good, agreed better than before. For the price it's pretty good I think. Their customer service is quite exceptional in my experience too.

    I just got a suit from them (currently at the tailors so no pics) with similar sleeve rippling out of the box - seemed to go away after a few days hanging in the closet.

    They also confirmed that if they feel your reported measurement isn't right, they'll add fabric intentionally to have it taken in later instead of having to remake it. For instance, my pants had an extra inch added to the waist because they didn't trust my measurement (which was correct). Maybe this played into your sleeve issue?
     


  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Shoulders/back dreadful - large divots, ill fitting and not wonderful at the collar. Sleeves too short.

    If that is the second attempt I'd return it for refund. Don't be fooled by the alterations allowance, easy to add it on at the front and appear to be generous by giving it back at the end.
     


  9. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    Are you referring to the first attempt (with images), or the second attempt (also with images)?

    As far as my (amateur) eye can tell, the second attempt has improved the back, removed the divots, and lessened the ripples in the sleeves. There is no collar gap (I'm not wearing a dress shirt, only a thin t shirt) and no roll under the collar on the back.

    Second attempt still dreadful?
     


  10. dluce76

    dluce76 Active Member

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    I think the second attempt is good. Maybe I'm an amateur too.
     


  11. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Both
     


  12. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    The second attempt is significantly better than the first, but by virtue of the short jacket (which oddly wasn't a problem weeks ago), it remains basically unwearable. Is the 'remake' the original jacket heavily altered?
     


  13. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    Second attempt jacket is the same length as the first attempt. Only changes from 1 to 2 are sleeve length and some changes to upper arm and back...
     


  14. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Senior member

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    Have you actually measured that? In the newer picture, are you wearing pants well below the waist?
     


  15. jimrude

    jimrude Active Member

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    Yes, wearing shorts(!) in 2nd picture...
     


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