Old-School French Bespoke Brogues

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pejsek, Oct 25, 2006.

  1. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

    Messages:
    938
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Here's an interesting pair of old bespoke half-brogues I picked up a few weeks ago. The maker is A. Rondepierre, 5 rue Volney, Paris (pres Opera). A google search shows a variety of tenants now at that location--the Kenyan Tourist Office, Chabad-Loubavitch Ctr, a pharmaceutical rep, and Serge Simitian's S'Coiffure. I have it on good authority that Corthay is down the street.

    [​IMG]

    The trees are among the most beautiful and precisely-lasted I've seen:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the high rolling curve on the outer side of the upper:

    [​IMG]

    The shoes came from a gentleman who was also apparently a devoted Henry Maxwell customer. I don't know where Rondepierre stood in the pantheon of Parisian bespoke makers, but he was certainly favored by the well-heeled.
     


  2. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

    Messages:
    7,805
    Likes Received:
    66
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    Wow. Those shoe trees are incredible.

    I hope the shoes came unused...
    [​IMG]
     


  3. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
    10,448
    Likes Received:
    74
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    Ditto on the shoe trees. Is there a reason, aside from the extra labor, why more custom trees aren't made this way? I don't travel a lot, but I hate having to carry heavy cedar trees or improvise with socks.
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,771
    Likes Received:
    3,407
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    I hope the shoes came unused...
    [​IMG]



    The French don't sweat, so it's OK.
     


  5. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

    Messages:
    7,805
    Likes Received:
    66
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America


  6. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

    Messages:
    938
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Ditto on the shoe trees. Is there a reason, aside from the extra labor, why more custom trees aren't made this way? I don't travel a lot, but I hate having to carry heavy cedar trees or improvise with socks.

    Good point, chorse. When I get hold of that digital camera again I'll post a comparison of bespoke trees. Lightness has long been a part of the bespoke tradition (unless you're going for the three-piece trees or those long-handled ones over on RJman's Delos thread). Henry Maxwell used a distinctive tree with the heel and toe pieces joined by a mechanism made of some sort of alluminum alloy. The hinged Lobb (St. James) trees were a typically staid affair made of very lightweight wood discretely hollowed out on the underside. These Rondepierre trees are far more flamboyant than either of those--almost seems a shame to put shoes around them.
     


  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut
    Very nice shoes. Lucky guy. For me not typical French, but typical bespoke, indeed.
    Regarding the shoe-trees. I bought such on the fleamarket at the Naschmarkt/Vienna and will look for more, when I find the time. It's not around the corner anymore. Also it's an impulse to look, if there is somebody who can/will produce this stuff.
     


  8. saint

    saint Senior member

    Messages:
    1,676
    Likes Received:
    91
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Location:
    This mortal coil
    Excellent shoes, but the laces have gotta go.
     


  9. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

    Messages:
    938
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    What's wrong with the laces? Just curious.
     


  10. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut


  11. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

    Messages:
    7,805
    Likes Received:
    66
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America


  12. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

    Messages:
    938
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2004
    Well, I just don't get this at all. I'll certainly take my share of the responsibility since I did urge Alan to retain the original laces on the Polo cap-toes. But do you all really prefer those horrid round waxed laces?! They just seem so coarse and mean to me--not at all in keeping with an elegant shoe (like these bespokes or Alan's cap-toes). I wonder what you all might think of the true ribbon laces meant to be worn with formal shoes. Maybe we should just switch to improvised lengths of sisal twine.
     


  13. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    I love ribbon laces. They are distinctive but still discreet and for formal shoes, the wider the better.
     


  14. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,609
    Likes Received:
    1,937
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    A ravenous Dutchman was believed to have tried to eat himself. Having failed to remove his shoes first, he choked on his shoelaces. While all suicides, other than amongst the vanguard of the realist movement, are necessarily tragic, I find there is something of an innocent charm in the contemplation of self-gustibation.
     


  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Likes Received:
    201
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut
    Ok, let me go deeper in my personal shoe-laces world.

    As i said, I like the ribbon laces on the black oxford. Nostalgic, etc.

    Also on this example, I prefer the ribbons.
    http://www.dailyshoes.de/forum/schuh...bevorzugt.html

    On Alan's shoes I don't like either this waxed ones nor the ribbons.

    The waxed are a bit to thin and not textured. There's much better stuff on the market.
    The ribbons don't have the right tone of colour, also.
    My personal suggestion for Alan's Oxford is a mid brown, waxed or not, round and not flat. e.g. like in the VASS catalogue

    I wonder you guys spend so much time on antiquing your shoes, why don't give the laces a different colour with shoe cream?

    Due to the fact, that the industry stopped to offer a good variety of colours and sizes(caliber). It's getting real tricky to reach good results.

    Thanks for listening.

    PS: Great shoe and relly a bargain. Enjoy it
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by