Official Wedding Attire Question/Answer/Picture Thread

[unbelragazzo]

Read the OP. Non-matching is encouraged.

 

[ovlov]

Read the OP. Non-matching is encouraged.

Non- matching suits sure. Just unsure if it extended to shoes or if that might make it too casual.

Thinking of just telling everyone. "Wear the best you can get your hands on only rules, no black suits, shoes must be well shined, pick a tie color and i'll provide a grenadine for each."

 

[Digmenow]

Not much time for real pics so I raided the official wedding pics for these.

Dig = Guest / Bride's side
Locale = Mississippi
Setting = Outdoors
Date = Late September
Time = Afternoon
Weather = Unexpected light occasional drizzle with temps in the mid 80's and not enough umbrellas
Suit = Cotton
Shirt = Linen
Tie = Silk brown shepherd check
Footwear = Acorn single monks

 

[unbelragazzo]



 Non- matching suits sure. Just unsure if it extended to shoes or if that might make it too casual.

Thinking of just telling everyone. "Wear the best you can get your hands on only rules, no black suits, shoes must be well shined, pick a tie color and i'll provide a grenadine for each."

It's fine IMHO. If everybody is wearing black except for one guy in bandaid colored shoes it will be distracting. But if everybody has dark shoes on it's fine.

 

[concrete3]

Just a quick question, apologize if this is the wrong thread.

Wedding this weekend, was planning on wearing navy Bonobos chinos and dark brown shoes

http://www.bonobos.com/teatotalers-straight-leg
http://www.aldoshoes.com/us/men/shoes/dress-lace-ups/94945899-simmons/22

Would really appreciate suggestions on a shirt/tie combo to go with this.

For the record, I'm not in the wedding, just in attendance for reception and ceremony. This is the 13th wedding I've had to attend since the first week of May so I'm at a loss for ideas without wearing something I already have. Not opposed to buying a new shirt as long as it's flexible enough to wear casually, too.

 

[smoothmoose]

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Total noob here... Been trolling SF for some time, but due to $$$/laziness, I've been wearing ill fitting suits, poorly done MTM shirts, and just barely getting by. Now that all has to change and I'm hoping SF can help me out.

About me: 26, 5'5", 28" waist, 125lb and super thin, short arms (~29"-30")... OTR suits & shirts are basically impossible for me. I'm young, like to wear colorful socks, slim fit pants, skinny ties, friends think I know a lot about fashion when really I'm a beginner...

Anyways, I'm a groomsman at a black tie wedding (upper class NYC, everyone will be well dressed) in a few months and in 7 days I will be in Hong Kong for 2.5 weeks. Due to an insane travelling schedule, this is basically my only chance to get something made in time for the wedding. Added bonus if this same tux could work for my wedding some day.
So, I'm considering getting a bespoke tuxedo made while in HK and SF seems to recommend W.W.Chan. Should I visit someone else in HK ([COLOR=333333]A Man Hing Cheong, Ascot Chang, Jantzen)? [/COLOR]

I need so much help filling in the blanks / mistakes below. Probably not good to walk into my tailoring appointment not knowing what I'm talking about.

Jacket:
Color: Black (groom is telling me black only so I think midnight blue is out of the question)
Fabric: ??? (Not a clue, HELP!)
Lapel: Peak (how small can I make it? As I said, I'm thin), GrosGrain finish, With a
Jacket Type: One Botton
Sleeve Length: Show 1/2" French Cuff
Sleeves: tapered / slim
Vents: Double Vent
Pockets: double besom sewn shut, GrosGrain twill weave
Fit: Super Slim Fit

Pants:
Non Pleated
GrosGrain twill weave down the sides
No Cuffs, Hemmed with minimal Break
Tapered, Urban Slim Fit


Shirt (should I get this made at the same tailor or somewhere else?)
Color: White
Placket: hidden (should I get a 4-button removable placket as well?)
Collar: Spread, Turndown
Fit: Super Slim Fit
Bow Tie: Self Tie, Black GrosGrain (is this ok? [COLOR=0000FF]http://www.thetiebar.com/order_page_bowties.asp?pn=B1228[/COLOR] )

Cummerbund / Waistcoat / Vest: Not sure where else to get a Cummerbund except with the tailor (will they make this?) Should I instead opt for a vest or waistcoat?

I know there are tons of details I'm missing. I just really want this all to turn out well as this is a significant amount of money for me. I'm really hoping you guys can help me fill in the missing blanks and stuff I haven't even thought of.
-Lining?
-Armhole Positioning?
-Buttons on Pants? -Type of Buttons for jacket / shirt / pants?
-Placement for embroidering of initials on Shirt / Jacket, if at all?

I only have a few comments and will let the pro chime in more, I am the same height as you and have 30" waist, but I am significantly bulkier @150lbs (due to weightlifting). From HK, I only have experience with Lee Baron (and another tailor I rather forget). Lee Baron is good, but it appears prices have gone up in the past two years since I've bought from them. As for your tuxedo design, I would go for a classic unvented tuxedo. Double-vent IMO just looks too suity. I originally had my tuxedo made with a single vent, but that was also a mistake as my perky butt, caused the gaping vent problem, so I had it closed off. Loved the classic unvented look. Also since you have short arms, you can probably get away with a short jacket that will not bunch when you sit down even unvented. As for lapels, consider a shawl lapel vs. peak lapel. I think skinny peaks just look silly. Also I recommend getting a hidden long-neck inside button that allows you to button your jacket while seated, but gives you an inch or so of breathing room (especially if you are getting a extra slim fit.) It came in handy for me for my wedding as I had some bloating issues during dinner. NOTE to all grooms, eat more during the day prior to dinner. I had a small lunch and basically a granola bar during our afternoon photoshoot and by the dinner time I was starving. I ate too quickly during dinner and it just caused me some serious bloating issues. Luckily some bitters and antacid helped remedy the problem after an hour. But even so, it was my wedding day, and it sucked to be bloated for awhile. Finally, picking up my photos today from our photography, so will have some nice wedding pics to post up soon.

 

[unbelragazzo]



Just a quick question, apologize if this is the wrong thread.

Wedding this weekend, was planning on wearing navy Bonobos chinos and dark brown shoes

http://www.bonobos.com/teatotalers-straight-leg
http://www.aldoshoes.com/us/men/shoes/dress-lace-ups/94945899-simmons/22

Would really appreciate suggestions on a shirt/tie combo to go with this.

For the record, I'm not in the wedding, just in attendance for reception and ceremony.  This is the 13th wedding I've had to attend since the first week of May so I'm at a loss for ideas without wearing something I already have.  Not opposed to buying a new shirt as long as it's flexible enough to wear casually, too.

Wear a jacket too. No ties without jackets. Also there's no shame in wearing something you've worn to a previous wedding.

 

[ImTheGroom]

Total noob here... Been trolling SF for some time, but due to $$$/laziness, I've been wearing ill fitting suits, poorly done MTM shirts, and just barely getting by. Now that all has to change and I'm hoping SF can help me out.

About me: 26, 5'5", 28" waist, 125lb and super thin, short arms (~29"-30")... OTR suits & shirts are basically impossible for me. I'm young, like to wear colorful socks, slim fit pants, skinny ties, friends think I know a lot about fashion when really I'm a beginner...

Anyways, I'm a groomsman at a black tie wedding (upper class NYC, everyone will be well dressed) in a few months and in 7 days I will be in Hong Kong for 2.5 weeks. Due to an insane travelling schedule, this is basically my only chance to get something made in time for the wedding. Added bonus if this same tux could work for my wedding some day.
So, I'm considering getting a bespoke tuxedo made while in HK and SF seems to recommend W.W.Chan. Should I visit someone else in HK (A Man Hing Cheong, Ascot Chang, Jantzen)?

I need so much help filling in the blanks / mistakes below. Probably not good to walk into my tailoring appointment not knowing what I'm talking about.

Jacket:
Color: Black (groom is telling me black only so I think midnight blue is out of the question)
Fabric: ??? (Not a clue, HELP!)
Lapel: Peak (how small can I make it? As I said, I'm thin), GrosGrain finish, With a
Jacket Type: One Botton
Sleeve Length: Show 1/2" French Cuff
Sleeves: tapered / slim
Vents: Double Vent
Pockets: double besom sewn shut, GrosGrain twill weave
Fit: Super Slim Fit

Pants:
Non Pleated
GrosGrain twill weave down the sides
No Cuffs, Hemmed with minimal Break
Tapered, Urban Slim Fit


Shirt (should I get this made at the same tailor or somewhere else?)
Color: White
Placket: hidden (should I get a 4-button removable placket as well?)
Collar: Spread, Turndown
Fit: Super Slim Fit

Bow Tie: Self Tie, Black GrosGrain (is this ok? http://www.thetiebar.com/order_page_bowties.asp?pn=B1228 )

Cummerbund / Waistcoat / Vest: Not sure where else to get a Cummerbund except with the tailor (will they make this?) Should I instead opt for a vest or waistcoat?

I know there are tons of details I'm missing. I just really want this all to turn out well as this is a significant amount of money for me. I'm really hoping you guys can help me fill in the missing blanks and stuff I haven't even thought of.
-Lining?
-Armhole Positioning?
-Buttons on Pants?
-Type of Buttons for jacket / shirt / pants?
-Placement for embroidering of initials on Shirt / Jacket, if at all?

Do not wear a pre-tied bow tie. Get one of these, for an inexpensive option:
http://www.clermontdirect.com/luxury-black-silk-self-p-119.html (I bought this one, and it does the job quite well)
http://www.clermontdirect.com/finest-barathea-silk-self-p-209.html (recommended, as you're going with grosgrain facings, so you want a textured bow tie)
Velvet is also an option, but I would clear that with the groom (and bride!) as it might draw a bit of attention.

Or contact these guys to see what they can do as a special order - their OTR bow ties are $45, so a special order would be pretty reasonable, too.
http://www.beautiesltd.com/category/contact-info

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of on-line tutorials for how to tie a bow tie. The Clermont ties come with instructions in the box. It is not very hard, to do, just a little tricky to learn - just requires a few practice goes. Here is one resource:
http://www.blacktieguide.com/Style_Basics/Basics_Tying_a_bowtie.htm

As you're doing grosgrain facings, and it will fit you, I don't think your tux will be mistaken for a rental, but Black Tie Guide (you have read it, right? http://www.blacktieguide.com) reccomends against facing the pockets. I believe the main argument is that it disrupts the unbroken line of the suit.

I hemmed my pants with no break at all, and combined them with Calvin Klein Guildford formal loafers ($130 - all kinds of options available if you go up to $500 or more) and silk over the calf formal hose from A Suitable Wardrobe. You can get silk hose online from Brooks Brothers for $40; I had to go to the ones from ASW because my feet are too small for most socks, and his actually came in sizes. If you have a problem with normal "shoe size 8-12" socks not fitting, these are the ones I have. I've only worn them once, but I have no complaints:
http://store.asuitablewardrobe.net/puresilkdresssocks.aspx

As for the fit (super slim fit) I would recommend having the fit/cut/silhouette, however you like to say it, done so that it looks like a classically cut style on you. On your body, maybe that's a super slim fit. The reason I say this, is that a Tuxedo is something you will likely keep, and continue to wear, for more than 10 years. Styles will change, so, unless you plan to replace it when fashions change, go with as classic a look as possible.

I agree that, if you need a slimmer lapel, a shawl will look nicer. I do not, however, agree that you necessarily need a slimmer lapel. I am 5'7", and a 37" chest, and I do just fine in a standard 3.5" lapel. Maybe you could shave a quarter inch, or 3/8 inches off of it, just to get it in proportion; I think this would, visually, look the same as a 3.5" lapel, but put it in balance. Someone with more knowledge on that might be able to correct me. It still might be better to go to a shawl, though. Hit up some consignment stores, or maybe places like Banana Republic etc., to see if you can find some narrow peak lapels to get an idea what they look like. A curved line of the lapel might make them look narrower - but it would definitely give them a retro look, and you might not want that. Narrow lapels might have the effect of dating your dinner jacket, rather than your desired effect of putting it in balance with your body.

I do not see a waist covering on your list. Are you planning on going without a waist cummerbund or waistcoat? I do not recommend that, but if you do, make sure that you have a higher rise on the pants, and that your jacket skirt hangs straight down below the button point, so that you can keep the bottom of your shirt covered with the jacket done up. A common issue with slim fit jackets is that they gape below the button point, so be sure to avoid that.

 

[smoothmoose]

One other comment on the above. If you are indeed buying your tuxedo in Hong Kong, when you ask for "extra slim fit" it will be skin tight. In Hong Kong everybody is super skinny and most guys there prefer skin tight. Just in reference, so you know what you are getting into.

 

[ImTheGroom]

One other comment on the above. If you are indeed buying your tuxedo in Hong Kong, when you ask for "extra slim fit" it will be skin tight. In Hong Kong everybody is super skinny and most guys there prefer skin tight. Just in reference, so you know what you are getting into.

Very useful - which would lead me to want to try to see some of the tailor's work in advance. ForeverSkinny, perhaps gather some photos of the general idea of the fit you want (regardless of the size of the model) and bring the closest garments you have to fitting the way you want your tuxedo to fit, to give the tailor a starting point.

 

[ForeverSkinny]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks so much for the guidance.Going in to the shops tomorrow, so any further comments would be greatly appreciated.

Here is my summary at this point...

Tux for groomsman, own wedding, and future black tie events

26, 5'5", 28" waist, 120-128lb, super thin, short arms (~29.5")

Fabric: Unknown (Suggestions?)

Tailor: Undecided...
Peter Lee of Lee Baron
W.W. Chan Limited
Gordon Yao
Y William Yu

Jacket
Canvas: Full-canvas (unfused)
Color: Black
fit/cut/silhouette: classically cut
Lapel: Shawl with GrosGrain finish
Lapel width: Small / proportional...
Gorge height: (necessary for shawl?)
Real lapel buttonhole (teardrop style?) so I can put a flower loop in behind & beneath it.
Buttonholes: hand sewn
Buttons: horn buttons GrosGrain finish
Breast pocket height: Slightly above normal
Jacket Type: One Button
Shoulder padding: (Minimal?)
Button stance: (high, normal, or low ?)
Sleeve Length: Showing 1/2" of French Cuff, over an inch when the arm is at chest
Sleeves: tapered/slim due to thin wrists
Armhole: Tight / high
Sleeves: Real Buttonholes
Sleeve Buttons: 4, kissing
Jacket Length: Short, down to wrists
Vents: Classic unvented
Outside Pockets: Double besom with GrosGrain twill weave, sewn shut
Inside Pockets: (yes / no ?, 1/2 ?)
Fit: Slim Fit
Lining: (Yes / No? What color?, Can I go unlined to reduce heat?)
Embrodering of Initials Inside Jacket

-- There was a recommendation not to face the pockets, not sure what this means --

Pants
Color: Black
Pleats: None
Fly: Zipper
Tab closure above fly
Belt Style: No belt loops
Side Tabs: Yes, side-tab adjustors, strap-and-buckle style
Braces: Internal buttons for braces (suspenders)
Pockets: (On the seam or slightly angled?)
Rear Pockets: (both buttoned?)
Fork Height: (high & tight, but not uncomfortably tight ?)
GrosGrain twill weave down the sides, Width: (?)
Cuffs: None
Break: None
Creases: Sharp and hang dead straight in center of the leg both front and back all the way to the hem
Leg taper: Yes
Leg width: Slim
Shirt
Color: White
Placket: Hidden
Collar: Spread, Turndown, Non Fused
Collar Stays (non permanent, brass?)
Cuffs: French, Non Fused
Sleeve length: Down to Wrist
Fit: Slim Fit
Embroidering of Initials: (Yes/No?, Where?)

Waist Covering:
Cummerbund, GrosGrain finish

Bow Tie: Black GrosGrain, non pre-tied bow tie (was looking at

Pocket Square: (Yes/No, Color?, Suggestions?)

Inspiration Photos (please provide any others you may have):
Length, Shawl Cut
http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/1926x1170/k_n/Nick-Hoult-GQ_07May13_getty_b.jpg

Shirt:
http://cdn04.cdn.justjared.com/wp-c...el-inside-llewyn-davis-cannes-premiere-04.jpg



Thanks!

ForeverSkinny

 

[ImTheGroom]

Hi Everyone,

Thanks so much for the guidance.Going in to the shops tomorrow, so any further comments would be greatly appreciated.

Here is my summary at this point...

Tux for groomsman, own wedding, and future black tie events

26, 5'5", 28" waist, 120-128lb, super thin, short arms (~29.5")

Fabric: Unknown (Suggestions?)

Tailor: Undecided...
Peter Lee of Lee Baron
W.W. Chan Limited
Gordon Yao
Y William Yu

Jacket
Canvas: Full-canvas (unfused)
Color: Black
fit/cut/silhouette: classically cut
Lapel: Shawl with GrosGrain finish
Lapel width: Small / proportional...
Gorge height: (necessary for shawl?)
Real lapel buttonhole (teardrop style?) so I can put a flower loop in behind & beneath it.
Buttonholes: hand sewn
Buttons: horn buttons GrosGrain finish
Breast pocket height: Slightly above normal
Jacket Type: One Button
Shoulder padding: (Minimal?)
Button stance: (high, normal, or low ?) Lower may give you a bit more height, but don't make it comically low. Try normal, and see how you like it - also, with such a short jacket, it needs to stay in proportion.
Sleeve Length: Showing 1/2" of French Cuff, over an inch when the arm is at chest
Sleeves: tapered/slim due to thin wrists -- Be sure there is room enough to accomodate the french cuff of the shirt.
Armhole: Tight / high
Sleeves: Real Buttonholes
Sleeve Buttons: 4, kissing
Jacket Length: Short, down to wrists
Vents: Classic unvented
Outside Pockets: Double besom with GrosGrain twill weave, sewn shut
Inside Pockets: (yes / no ?, 1/2 ?) I'd do two. You'll need to have tickets, speeches, the groom's cell phone, etc.
Fit: Slim Fit
Lining: (Yes / No? What color?, Can I go unlined to reduce heat?) Black. Don't skip it.
Embrodering of Initials Inside Jacket Personally, I'd do them in black, so they're super subtle, but that's down to personal preference.

-- There was a recommendation not to face the pockets, not sure what this means -- This means to do the besom in the same fabric as the rest of the jacket, not a different fabric. It seemed like you were wanting grosgrain for this?

Pants
Color: Black
Pleats: None
Fly: Zipper
Tab closure above fly
Belt Style: No belt loops
Side Tabs: Yes, side-tab adjustors, strap-and-buckle style
Braces: Internal buttons for braces (suspenders)
Pockets: (On the seam or slightly angled?) In the seam, so the grosgrain facing goes all the way up to the waistband.
Rear Pockets: (both buttoned?) Horn buttons, uncovered - a covered/shank button will add bulk that you don't want or need.
Fork Height: (high & tight, but not uncomfortably tight ?)
GrosGrain twill weave down the sides, Width: Go with the standard width (honestly not sure what that is) or maybe shave it a fraction, to keep it in proportion.
Cuffs: None
Break: None
Creases: Sharp and hang dead straight in center of the leg both front and back all the way to the hem
Leg taper: Yes
Leg width: Slim

Shirt - Are you going to do a flat front shirt? Pleated front? Piqué/Marcella?
Color: White
Placket: Hidden
Collar: Spread, Turndown, Non Fused
Collar Stays (non permanent, brass?)
Cuffs: French, Non Fused
Sleeve length: Down to Wrist
Fit: Slim Fit
Embroidering of Initials: (Yes/No?, Where?)

Waist Covering:
Cummerbund, GrosGrain finish - If you can, once the suit is finished, I would get a regular cummerbund, and put it on, then play with the height by folding it down, to pick a height you like, that is in proportion with everything else. A regular one may be much too tall on you, and that could look clownish.

Bow Tie: Black GrosGrain, non pre-tied bow tie (was looking at - Faille is another option

Pocket Square: (Yes/No, Color?, Suggestions?) Up to you - probably not if you are wearing a boutonierre. Go with white for classic, or, if you like, it's a spot you can add a pop of colour like red, or royal blue. Linen if it's white. Silk if it's a colour, in my opinion.

Inspiration Photos (please provide any others you may have):
Length, Shawl Cut
http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/1926x1170/k_n/Nick-Hoult-GQ_07May13_getty_b.jpg

Shirt:
http://cdn04.cdn.justjared.com/wp-c...el-inside-llewyn-davis-cannes-premiere-04.jpg



Thanks!

ForeverSkinny

On the subject of shirts, there is a store in Toronto called "Brown's Menswear - A Short Man's World" and they specialize in clothing men under 5'7". If you google it, I'm sure you will find them, and they do online sales, and ship all over the world.

 

[ImTheGroom]

A few photos of the end result. The rest can be found at pikegiffordwedding.wordpress.com

















And after 6...

 

[Veremund]

Good stuff!

 

[MrDaniels]

Both suits are singularly spectacular. I think the morning outfit is without a doubt the best I've ever seen here, and the tux is certainly one of the best.