1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

*** Official S/S 2013 Runway Thread ***

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by sipang, Jun 16, 2012.

  1. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

    Messages:
    4,314
    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2010
    Location:
    BKN, NYC, USA
    it is a cool art installation, basically. a very cool one, in fact. I'd love to have a look in person. he's got a great sense of three-dimensionality, for lack of a better term. but I think it's more suited to a gallery than a fashion week presentation.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. fps

    fps Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    65
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2011
    CWLS has become more consistant with their collections and are now doing 2 a year, but had a history for ten years before that as a mantle for a host of art installations, performances, and dialogues - for which clothes were sometimes made.

    Aitor seems to be focussed on the collection of process, and an articulation of how he goes from X to Y, which is something rarely seen in fashion, or fine art. Which is kind of cool. I think because fashion is so quick, the curtain rarely gets pulled back, and if you've ever heard an artist talk about his or her process, it can be mind numbing. I'd like to be able to instakop AT stuff as well, but as a bit of PR and interest piquing, backlash be damned, at least people are blogging the shit out of what he's doing -- which is invaluable for when it actually hits.
     
  3. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,988
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2012
    hmmm I don't know if I agree with that. Helmut, early Raf and several Minimalists in the late 90's early 00's were known for this as well. Same goes for Ellsworth kelly, Jasper Johns, Yves Klein and several other artists.
     
  4. fps

    fps Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    65
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2011
    Well, rarely, I said, not never. Not to be shit stirring, but of course when classic Raf does some kind of recyclism couture piece the it's all about the process, and there is certainly a definable contingent of artists who are distinctly process-based, in the era of high modern/conceptualist art this was true, but for the general public (who are not SF contributors) fashion is what happens on runways, in print, and then 6 months later in shops. Art is something to be seen on walls in galleries and museums. Certainly when designers end up with retrospectives in more mainstream museums whether through fame, Rei, or tragedy, McQueen, we get a look at how he or she thought, but in the passing of seasons to see this on the ground as it occurs is in many ways unique. I'm not mad about it, but at least it's an intersting aside in an otherwise par for the course, or underwhelming, fashion week vehicle.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. fps

    fps Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    65
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2011
    Meh, either way, roll on Paris...
     
    2 people like this.
  6. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

    Messages:
    9,453
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2009
  7. Johan

    Johan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    99
    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2010
  8. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,988
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2012
    to all the idiots who siad stupid things like Jil had Big shoes to fill for her own label you can now kindly come off Raf's dick and jump off a bridge
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Sean9

    Sean9 Senior member

    Messages:
    115
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Really like Jil's collection definitely some must cops in there for me. I really liked Raf at Jil too though.
     
  10. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

    Messages:
    3,211
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2011
    Location:
    south of the border, west of the sun
    Didn´t see many things that caught my eye at Jil. E. Zegna´s colors were lovely. Really dapper looks. And some great pieces at Corneliani as well.
     
  11. mike868y

    mike868y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,448
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2010
    Location:
    boston
    no new dino or dolphin sweaters? what the fuck.
     
  12. Zeemon

    Zeemon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,000
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2010
    Location:
    Germany
  13. A Fellow Linguist

    A Fellow Linguist Senior member

    Messages:
    2,342
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    I think Jil is just about what everyone was expecting. Seems like a return to form. That said, I think it's a total snoozefest. From a 'looking at pics on the internet' perspective it's not very exciting, but I imagine that the typical Jil Sander shopper will be pretty satisfied with it.
     
  14. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

    Messages:
    8,628
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2008
    Love the red Jil pieces
     
  15. MaBal

    MaBal Active Member

    Messages:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2012
  16. dwyhajlo

    dwyhajlo Senior member

    Messages:
    964
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2010
    

    To be fair, I don't think anyone would want to put their feet in those shoes at the Jil show.
     
  17. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

    Messages:
    3,211
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2011
    Location:
    south of the border, west of the sun
    Versace´s gladiator/boxer looks were quite interesting. Sandals were outta this world.
     
  18. GoldenTribe

    GoldenTribe Senior member

    Messages:
    3,670
    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2010
    Random thoughts:

    Did not like Jil Sander. It was about as creative as John Varvatos -- who weirdly seemed to be attempting to channel Ann D with all the white/cream and excess buttons. At Jil there was nothing surprising (which is fine), nothing interesting (which is less so), and nothing desirable (which is worst of all since it can make up for the other two).

    I liked Les Hommes -- they did a better job than Jil of refreshing basics. Lots of ticket pockets.

    The unorthodox quilting on outerwear at Neil Barrett was neat, along with some insect-like metallic greens. The tie-dye-looking uneven vertical stripes were not my cup of tea. Even more ticket pockets.

    Versace began with a man-junk dim sum and went metallic apeshit from there. It was all a little too much for me but how much of that is just the styling? Hard to say just after taking it in for the first time. I'm not feeling the high-top lace-up sandals, they're like some kind of Dsquared-Gucci hybrid on crack. If this is what makes "the Versace customer" happy, they must have been awfully unhappy when whats-his-face was working there making everything black. (I just tried to Wiki this and couldn't find shit -- where is there a reliable list of who has designed what for whom in the last few years?? I can't remember if it was Plokhov or Barrett, eesh.)

    Burberry to me feels as though it's been coasting for a year or two, but it's still pretty reliable. Traditional Burberry stuff with generic ethnic prints thrown in for good measure, it's pretty innocuous stuff and I'd wear most of it but I won't buy any of it. Bailey's had a bunch of good iconic outerwear the last few seasons (more than anyone else I can think of) but this is summer so there's only so much he can do without rolls of shearling and leather and belts akimbo.

    I always like Costume National, often without being able to articulate why -- maybe I've unthinkingly bought into the brand mythology and now can't unsubscribe my cerebrum? It's stuff I'd wear, though this collection seemed a bit weaker than usual, but I never end up buying any of it anyway and there's never good stuff second-hand, so I don't own any.

    As for Dolce & Gabbana, this is their first season not creating D&G in parallel, but I see no indication of any creative surge. These guys haven't done anything interesting in years as far as I am concerned. It could partly be the buyers' fault, but at the Holt Renfrew store in Toronto it's the Dolce section you can reliably laugh at everything because it's always crap. (Then again, I never see anything interesting from Dolce anywhere online either.) T-shirts with Al Pacino's face on them that say SCARFACE overhead and AL PACINO underneath? James Dean / Muhammed Ali / etc tees with their names scrawled all over as if people need to be told who they are? Where's the "design"? They make a decent suit (for the lucky few who bleed money), but I don't think that's nearly enough. This is the name that is synonymous with fashion to half the world; they haven't been earning it lately. They also always have the most looks/outfits in their shows: 85 this season (but lots even when they were doing D&G on the side) versus 30-40 for most of the other shows (and some like McQueen and Balmain have done just 10-20). Why stretch maybe a dozen looks' worth of ideas over eighty-five runway walks when it just draws attention to the redundancy and general staleness?
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2012
  19. KitAkira

    KitAkira Senior member

    Messages:
    8,628
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2008
    I don't know what people are complaining about, besides the shoes Jil's collection reminds of Jil, very minimalist. Of course, it's arguable whether that's relevant in this current resurgence of flamboyance and expression in menswear
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by